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Old 01-28-2015 | 02:28 PM
  #14236  
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Originally Posted by Numburn
My current setup is very close to his from Battle of the SIKest. It works!
Good to know!!
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Old 01-29-2015 | 05:06 AM
  #14237  
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Originally Posted by Numburn
Don't forget about the REDS motors. I'm running the 1900kv which is a little tamer than the Tekin 1900. That's perfect for me. They also have a 2100kv though if you want more power. They put a lot of thought into the design.
I just went from a tekin 2050 to the reds 1900 as well. It's very smooth on a RX8g2 and having the sensor wire by the posts is a life saver in the EB48.
Attached Thumbnails Tekno RC EB48 Thread-reds-sensor.jpg  
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Old 01-29-2015 | 09:20 PM
  #14238  
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http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDVKF

how come towerhob has the eb48.2 cheaper than amain ? is it the lastest version or an oldest .2 ?
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Old 01-29-2015 | 10:03 PM
  #14239  
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Originally Posted by werner sline
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDVKF

how come towerhob has the eb48.2 cheaper than amain ? is it the lastest version or an oldest .2 ?
Says their out of stock, as their on BO at Tekno. So im sure its the latest kit. Price isn't out of the norm, were close to that.
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Old 01-29-2015 | 11:53 PM
  #14240  
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Just finished my .2 build I got from Tower. (bout 2 weeks ago) It was the latest kit with the non-vented caps AFAIK.
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Old 01-30-2015 | 02:29 PM
  #14241  
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The Tekno vehicles often get rolling updates as things come out. Tower often does promotions just to move more inventory and they aren't tied to those updates as part numbers don't change or become discontinued. I wouldn't read into it too much. The eb48.2 is the current/latest Tekno eBuggy kit.
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Old 01-30-2015 | 06:04 PM
  #14242  
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Anyone have problems with the fitment of the locking shock rod ends and the XT arms?
Using the standard, "top" position, the rod ends hit the arms enough that I cant use the CW/CCW lower screws. I have to use a regular bolt and force it on.
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Old 01-30-2015 | 06:16 PM
  #14243  
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Originally Posted by Shawn_S
Anyone have problems with the fitment of the locking shock rod ends and the XT arms?
Using the standard, "top" position, the rod ends hit the arms enough that I cant use the CW/CCW lower screws. I have to use a regular bolt and force it on.
I had the same problem. I just dremeled the arm so it would fit.
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Old 01-30-2015 | 09:13 PM
  #14244  
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Originally Posted by Shawn_S
Anyone have problems with the fitment of the locking shock rod ends and the XT arms?
Using the standard, "top" position, the rod ends hit the arms enough that I cant use the CW/CCW lower screws. I have to use a regular bolt and force it on.
Originally Posted by Chr1s
I had the same problem. I just dremeled the arm so it would fit.
The new "revised" arms, PN:TKR5030B and TKR5036B, have more clearance around the shock perch area and won't cause any interference. Dremeling your current arms will work just fine and you shouldn't experience any issues from the removal of material.
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Old 01-30-2015 | 10:19 PM
  #14245  
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni
The new "revised" arms, PN:TKR5030B and TKR5036B, have more clearance around the shock perch area and won't cause any interference. Dremeling your current arms will work just fine and you shouldn't experience any issues from the removal of material.
Those are the arms included in the latest .2 kits? They were on mine.

Its not the spring perch thats the issue, its that the shock/rod end included with the locking spring cups are really thick and hitting the inner part of the arm where it sits in the arm. I just dremeled it and only needed a very slight amount of material removed. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't crazy.
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Old 01-31-2015 | 04:36 PM
  #14246  
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Has anyone had issues with the rear diff out drives wearing out quickly? I haven't ran this buggy that much and they already look like this, other diffs are fine. Opened diff and everything looks and operates fine.

Any ideas on causes?


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Old 01-31-2015 | 05:34 PM
  #14247  
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I never seen any wear like that before. Make sure the wheels are not rubbing anything, or bad axle bearings. Make sure they turn free while its apart, with the tires on and nut tight.
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Old 01-31-2015 | 05:40 PM
  #14248  
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I saw that on an early set of diff cups I was using. Maybe you got a bad batch?

I would contact Tekno.
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Old 01-31-2015 | 05:43 PM
  #14249  
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Originally Posted by Spyder Eye
Has anyone had issues with the rear diff out drives wearing out quickly? I haven't ran this buggy that much and they already look like this, other diffs are fine. Opened diff and everything looks and operates fine.

Any ideas on causes?

The first run EB48s had that problem due to a heat treating issue with the outdrives. Tekno switched to new materials and I have not seen one with that issue since. The car that I run on average of 5 packs a week still has the same outdrives in it from a year ago when I first built it
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Old 01-31-2015 | 05:44 PM
  #14250  
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Has anyone tried a different or modified wing mount to drop it down a bit lower?
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