There are really two answers to both your questions.

For the v1, there aren't really things you HAVE to replace, except to find the setup you need. If you want to convert it to a 48.2, then there are indeed a lot of parts that add up to a lot of money. The more important ones for performance and handling are the al front drive shaft and +1.5 rear hinge pin holder...both of which will be on most any EB48 anyway. The other differences are mainly al instead of steel for various balls and such, with the one wear difference being the offset rear tranny case to cause less wear in the rear dogbone area. The original eb48 may be worth less on the market, but it isn't worthless and still races great, so don't be afraid of the v1 if you get a good deal.

For the ESC question, I ran a MMP on 4s (needing an external bec) when I started. It worked, but it faded more on longer runs than any other esc I've tried, needed the bec, etc. The MMP will work, but if you're looking for a budget 4s esc to keep going with beyond that, consider the hobbywing sct pro. I myself am still hooked on the Tekin that I ended up with through several esc tests though, and want to try the skyrc next if given an excuse.

Neither really. For the most repeatable and predictable results you want them to be free moving but not sloppy and loose.

If you keep it too tight, it will be somewhat like having a stiffer bar. The reverse is also true, where if it is flopping around it will be somewhat like the bar is thinner and more flexible.

The best way to adjust these consistently is to take the bar without the ends attached to the arms (just pop the balls out) and lift it up. Tighten one side until it doesn't drop, then loosen just enough that it falls down on its own. Repeat with the other side. Now it is the same on both sides and predictable with no slop, so the handling performance is easily repeatable, as are any changes made in the area.

Note: it is also important is to have it centered, which is easy to do based on the writing, and have the ball ends match where they are (I always flush them with the ends of the bar).

Anyone have a good setup sheet for a hard packed, partially rough (in areas) surface track with not a very long straight, no woops. I'm set up stock and never raced. I'm going to run green hybrids. I looked around and couldn't find much.. I've been practicing and it's like driving on ice in areas but it's probably because the track hasn't been groomed and has a lot of loose stuff over the clay and I'm running pretty crappy tires at the moment waiting to mount my new ones... Thanks!

the right tires make a big difference.

Like he said, the right tires are best setup change you can make. Lutz's setup from the Battle of the Sikest is a good starting point. You can add a little more rear toe to it for more traction if needed.

http://lutzinator.com/?page_id=78

anyone running 2 7.4 lipos and have pics of how you mount them thanks dont have the money for a 4s

There you go

Make sure that the lipos you are going to use have similar usage on them.

There are some cheaper options out there for 4S.

There are positives and negatives to 2s vs 4s. 2s are more durable packs and you will generally get longer life out of them. 4s packs are less hassle going from from car to charger, and generally the cheaper option. Also, due to the extra casing dual 2s packs will weight more. For inexpensive packs I would look at SMC or ProMatch. I'm currently running Reedy 4600 packs for the weight savings.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...case_pack.htmlThese will get you buy. I picked them up on a whim because they were so cheap. Cant complain. They are only 30C peak discharge but with the voltage and my track isnt HIGH bite. They havent puffed, or been crap. I run SMC batteries and I like them better, but if you need to get by cheap.....this is the way to go

newb questions.. what size turnbuckle wrench do I need? I believe it is 4mm but want to double check before I order... thanks!

4mm

Make sure you check out the very first post in this thread. The wrench size is in there along with a whole bunch of other stuff.

keep forgetting to do that! thanks!

Tekno has some very nice turnbuckle wrenches out now too, worth checking out.

Hey guys, just bought a new Tekno, excited to get this bad boy on the track! I’ve read through the first page so I’m good there. Just wondering if there is anything I need to know while going into this build? Any extra tips or tricks? Also, for you indoor guys, are you running 7k/7k/5k or should I just go ahead and drop to 3 or 2 in the rear? Thanks!