Joe B

iTrader: (1)

Nothing but my opinion, imput & 2 cents here, But I actually like that they did not add more weight to the car than necessary in really any Non-performance improving area, like the front knuckles....

Besides, IME, nearly every FRONT CNC'd aluminum set of (hi dollar) knuckles i've ever had have tweaked slightly at one time or another (sometimes from not even too hard of a wreck)... and as mentioned, it's an item that's adds zero performance gain, adds some weight.... and at least with the plastic, they don't tweak... They will just (very very rarely break outright)....

IMO, the companies that include CNC'd front knuckles (or sell them aftermarket) is purely for the bling factor... No gains to be had there.......

Joe

Kane-o

iTrader: (12)

Hobao? Hong Nor? Not sure if those are cars that form a good comparison (never seen one at my track or any other I have raced at this year). The Associated? A very heavy car out of the box and requires a lot of work to make it handle well.

Xray, Losi, Mugen, Serpent (to name a few) come with plastic steering blocks and they are all of comparable price. My Kyosho has aluminum steering blocks but it better for a 900 dollar car.

They add weight and don't serve as a performance advantage. Plus they would drive the cost of the kit up.

-Kane

protc3

iTrader: (13)

The Serpent doesnt come with aluminum knuckles nor do any of the kits i have seen locally. I havent seen all of the top kits but the ones i have seen dont use aluminum knuckles. Kyosho may but you are talking a car that cost alot more. Plus as stated, i wouldnt run aluminum knuckles on the car anyway. That is an area where a little flex and forgiveness goes a long way with the wallet and wrench time of changing out broken arms.

Redondo

Hello,


sorry to bother this thread, but I see you posting on this forum and it reminds me that I bought items from your shop for a while now and I didn't receive them, without any answer from you. As you claim you give an answer to everybody at least here, I'd like to solve it.

Cheers

Ironwolf1974

iTrader: (6)

Ok so putting the front camber links together and as Im doing it, I notice it says 23.60mm between the two links. If I do this I basically have to twist them so far together Im not sure they will even make 23.6...

Is this correct?

patxeik

i had a similar issue with daniel several years ago, and he sent me the right part and let me keep the wrong part he sent me with no cost added, and i think it was my first order in his shop and overseas order. So no complains about that, and sure he will take care of it if you can demostrate it.
Also know that tekno will do his best to keep this car updated if something goes wrong and at a low cost for the customers.
Im not join the ship right now but will do it in the next months for sure.

I agree with you about losis, xray, durango,...... front knuckles, all of them made of plastic but they are quite similar and at least in my xray the knuckles were so beefy. The tekno looks that they have the same knuckels designs as the kyosho but in plastic, and that looks fragile.... at least in the pic i saw above of the building.

If they work and dont break easily i dont really care. I havent break any of the cnc of my nexx8 or x1 cr.

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

LoL What the heck are you doing in here. You want one to?

ZERTA RACING

iTrader: (36)

They will make it... I just built mine to the 23.6 spec and they work just fine.
-Thomas

ZERTA RACING

iTrader: (36)

Hello,
Your concern about the knuckle is understandable, but let me assure you that they are very, very strong. I tested the car for 6 months and never broke a knuckle or even C-hub for that matter. The thing about plastic is on hard impact it provides give to a certain extent then breaks, whereas aluminum bends or snaps(not good and more costly to replace). A little later I will be posting up more pictures of the build for people interested.

Ironwolf1974

iTrader: (6)

The steering is locking up far right and left, how far should it turn left and right?

http://youtu.be/iYpsA9wzU8A

Heres a video, not the best, camera phone and not great lighting.

Pleaes tell me if its supposed to do this.

EDIT: ANOTHER PROBLEM! Gah Im just putting this thing together wrong or something. Now the spur gear is catching on the top plate. I need to know if I need to fix either of these things.

Is it ok to grind away some of the top plate?

Ironwolf1974

iTrader: (6)

Yep thanks! Took some work but got them.

ZERTA RACING

iTrader: (36)

The steering issue is fine if you look at the knuckle you can see a little mark on it, if you choose you can take a hobby knife and trim it down to make it not rub anymore or just leave it and it will break itself in and make a groove in the plastic and won't bind anymore. The problem is the M4x18 is about a mm to long so the spindle touches it causing the binding.

Before making the groove with hobby knife:


After making the groove and no more binding:


For the top plate make sure it is in the correct orientation a picture would help as far as what is wrong.


EDIT: The spur gear is a little warped causing the gear to touch slightly.
EDIT EDIT: Once the center diff was installed on the chassis the rubbing went away.

ZERTA RACING

iTrader: (36)

More of my Buggy build.
Bag J...

Bag K...


Bag L...

Ironwolf1974

iTrader: (6)

First I have to say, THE SMOOTHEST SHOCKS IVE EVER BUILT!!!! OMFG.

Anyway, I totally got a Tekno lusty love man love (no gay) thing going on right now.

But the spur gear rubs the top plate when I mount it on the chassis. The front of the top of the spur gear hits the edge of the top plate. Ill take a picture of it once I finish the rear shocks.

ZERTA RACING

iTrader: (36)

Wait till you get it on the track and see how awesome the shocks perform it is butter smooth even on the roughest of tracks.

Think i might wait till tomorrow to build the shocks and finish the build pretty tired and my GF is looking at me funny LOL.