2LikesTekno RC EB48 Thread
08-26-2013, 11:56 AM
#8821
I had a first run of both, and a most recent run of both (not the .2, though I've bought most all the option parts to put into it and make it such). My wife is still running the first run SCT410 without issue (replaced an arm and hinge pin after she ran it into a steel building I Beam at full speed coming off the straight, but she was still able to finish her run even after that).
08-26-2013, 01:55 PM
#8822
Tech Addict
iTrader: (11)
The arms have been fairly well covered before. The standard arms are pretty good in warm weather and the extra strong arms tend to cure the issue in cold as well (and are included in the .2).
Servo gears are not part of the car, nor a result of the car itself. If you were locking the servo saver though, and that's why your servo was killing itself, consider the new heavy duty servo saver spring (also part of the .2 kit).
Shock shafts themselves have not changed, and with exception to one of the early sets possibly being too hard (I don't think that was ever confirmed, though people stopped having large numbers of issues with them), there must me something else going on. In any case, the new shock shaft guides (also part of the .2 kit) should help this by making a longer point of guidance and pressure distribution to help prevent both bends and breaks.
Dogbones tend to snap if you end up with notched outdrives, or you run without braces and taco the chassis with flex (the chassis comes back to flat and true no problem) while on power. I shattered a few with early outdrives, and thought I was ok, but I wasn't. The outdrives tend to wear (though I've only ever had to replace them once, so the wear isn't high, except on that very first batch which was quickly replaced by Tekno) without it showing through to the outside, so you won't notice it by a quick visual inspection unless you're also turning the drivetrain and looking at it from all angles with the dog bone pushed in each direction, etc. The new rear diff casing (also part of the .2 kit) reduces the angles to reduce wear, so this should happen less often for that dogbone now.
The inner mount hasn't been changed to my knowledge, but also hasn't tended to be a problem. The sliding around issue was noted by some, and the suggested fix is to use a flat head with countersunk washer, rather than a round head screw. This gives more surface area for it to grab and distribute the strain, which reduces how much you might bend/flex the outer mount, as well as how likely a screw is to back out of the inner mount.
All of these are simple to put on an original car.
Servo gears are not part of the car, nor a result of the car itself. If you were locking the servo saver though, and that's why your servo was killing itself, consider the new heavy duty servo saver spring (also part of the .2 kit).
Shock shafts themselves have not changed, and with exception to one of the early sets possibly being too hard (I don't think that was ever confirmed, though people stopped having large numbers of issues with them), there must me something else going on. In any case, the new shock shaft guides (also part of the .2 kit) should help this by making a longer point of guidance and pressure distribution to help prevent both bends and breaks.
Dogbones tend to snap if you end up with notched outdrives, or you run without braces and taco the chassis with flex (the chassis comes back to flat and true no problem) while on power. I shattered a few with early outdrives, and thought I was ok, but I wasn't. The outdrives tend to wear (though I've only ever had to replace them once, so the wear isn't high, except on that very first batch which was quickly replaced by Tekno) without it showing through to the outside, so you won't notice it by a quick visual inspection unless you're also turning the drivetrain and looking at it from all angles with the dog bone pushed in each direction, etc. The new rear diff casing (also part of the .2 kit) reduces the angles to reduce wear, so this should happen less often for that dogbone now.
The inner mount hasn't been changed to my knowledge, but also hasn't tended to be a problem. The sliding around issue was noted by some, and the suggested fix is to use a flat head with countersunk washer, rather than a round head screw. This gives more surface area for it to grab and distribute the strain, which reduces how much you might bend/flex the outer mount, as well as how likely a screw is to back out of the inner mount.
All of these are simple to put on an original car.
Someone from this thread recommended I move to spring steel gears, I found the Savox 2274 and have not looked back.
Forgot to mention the ackerman once, this was on Friday before a 3 day event, I had beg, grovel, and cry a little for a guy there to lend me one from a full second sct410 kit he had. There was none within 200 miles from LCRC that weekend.
Worn out rear outdrive, small dogbone from center diff to rear, and diff coupler.
08-26-2013, 02:05 PM
#8823
Tech Addict
iTrader: (11)
I just wanted to make this quick note. The first run EB48 was well before the first run SCT410. The first run of the SCT410 already had most of the fixes that had been figured out from the first run of the EB48 included in it upon release.
I had a first run of both, and a most recent run of both (not the .2, though I've bought most all the option parts to put into it and make it such). My wife is still running the first run SCT410 without issue (replaced an arm and hinge pin after she ran it into a steel building I Beam at full speed coming off the straight, but she was still able to finish her run even after that).
I had a first run of both, and a most recent run of both (not the .2, though I've bought most all the option parts to put into it and make it such). My wife is still running the first run SCT410 without issue (replaced an arm and hinge pin after she ran it into a steel building I Beam at full speed coming off the straight, but she was still able to finish her run even after that).
I broke 3 stub axles, stripped a bunch of tires with the composite hexes, ground down the AE aluminum hexes to get them fit and sit right, had some issues with getting tires locked down and occasionally would see them roll right off the truck, and finally, yesterday, I think a bearing seized, I have not looked at it yet, but I melted the nut through my rim!!! how does this happen....
At first glance everything is running free. I will tear it down this week to find out what really happened.
08-26-2013, 02:21 PM
#8824
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
The servo gears were all Titanium, I tightened to the spring to the manuals spec and nothing else on the steering was an issue. DS1015, and Savox 1258
Someone from this thread recommended I move to spring steel gears, I found the Savox 2274 and have not looked back.
Forgot to mention the ackerman once, this was on Friday before a 3 day event, I had beg, grovel, and cry a little for a guy there to lend me one from a full second sct410 kit he had. There was none within 200 miles from LCRC that weekend.
Worn out rear outdrive, small dogbone from center diff to rear, and diff coupler.
Someone from this thread recommended I move to spring steel gears, I found the Savox 2274 and have not looked back.
Forgot to mention the ackerman once, this was on Friday before a 3 day event, I had beg, grovel, and cry a little for a guy there to lend me one from a full second sct410 kit he had. There was none within 200 miles from LCRC that weekend.
Worn out rear outdrive, small dogbone from center diff to rear, and diff coupler.
08-26-2013, 02:31 PM
#8826
Quick question just to make sure I am understanding this +1.5 rear toe block correctly. Gonna start building the .2 here this week and I want to make sure I understand. So...If I was running dot out on the old car (max toe with stock toe plate), then I want to run "1/2 IN" on this new one and it will be the same toe setting. Correct?
08-26-2013, 02:34 PM
#8827
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
http://gshobby.com/content/fioroni-f...odiesgs-racing
08-26-2013, 02:36 PM
#8828
Quick question just to make sure I am understanding this +1.5 rear toe block correctly. Gonna start building the .2 here this week and I want to make sure I understand. So...If I was running dot out on the old car (max toe with stock toe plate), then I want to run "1/2 IN" on this new one and it will be the same toe setting. Correct?
08-26-2013, 03:27 PM
#8829
anyway us mere mortals without the new EB48.2 can get ahold of that 1.5+ hingepin brace? would like to have one before the Sept 15th race I am attending. Dustbowl loose conditions to mudpit loose, so any rear toe in I can get is an advantage.
As for the seized bearing, found 2 on my SCT410 doing a rebuild. They were thin bearings in the hubs up front I believe so keep an eye on those. Eb48 found a few that were too gritty, but in general rest were serviceable.
As for the seized bearing, found 2 on my SCT410 doing a rebuild. They were thin bearings in the hubs up front I believe so keep an eye on those. Eb48 found a few that were too gritty, but in general rest were serviceable.
08-26-2013, 05:38 PM
#8831
anyway us mere mortals without the new EB48.2 can get ahold of that 1.5+ hingepin brace? would like to have one before the Sept 15th race I am attending. Dustbowl loose conditions to mudpit loose, so any rear toe in I can get is an advantage.
As for the seized bearing, found 2 on my SCT410 doing a rebuild. They were thin bearings in the hubs up front I believe so keep an eye on those. Eb48 found a few that were too gritty, but in general rest were serviceable.
As for the seized bearing, found 2 on my SCT410 doing a rebuild. They were thin bearings in the hubs up front I believe so keep an eye on those. Eb48 found a few that were too gritty, but in general rest were serviceable.
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5013b...nodized-1-5mm/
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...race-Gun-Metal
08-26-2013, 05:41 PM
#8832
Tech Regular
A little about my driving, I am not a pro, but I am not a hack, I finish mostly top 5 in the A's and can run a 6 min qualifier with minimal mistakes.
I was an early adopter of this buggy, and since I have been driving it over 1 year of outdoor use in the northeast I have broken:
6-7 front arms, Max 3 were my fault (still using normal not HD, normal have been better in warmer weather)
4 sets of servo gears (due to saver spring) Savox 2274 SG and loosening the spring has stopped this.
3 shock shafts, one resulted in the loss of a Kyosho orange spring (normal jump, normal landing)
2 dogbones The most recent was Yesterday
Inner motor mount had to be replaced, even with loctite the bottom screw would back out, and allow the motor to angle, loosening the pinion gear and driving it back into the motor mount block.
Before I could figure out what was up with the motor mount I had some over current situations where the motor was drawing so hard it was de-soldering my deans connections
While I am not meticulous about maintenance, these items are all tough if not impossible to diagnose, prior to a race.
I also have a first run SCT410 that lends to the frustrations, especially a double DNF...
I was an early adopter of this buggy, and since I have been driving it over 1 year of outdoor use in the northeast I have broken:
6-7 front arms, Max 3 were my fault (still using normal not HD, normal have been better in warmer weather)
4 sets of servo gears (due to saver spring) Savox 2274 SG and loosening the spring has stopped this.
3 shock shafts, one resulted in the loss of a Kyosho orange spring (normal jump, normal landing)
2 dogbones The most recent was Yesterday
Inner motor mount had to be replaced, even with loctite the bottom screw would back out, and allow the motor to angle, loosening the pinion gear and driving it back into the motor mount block.
Before I could figure out what was up with the motor mount I had some over current situations where the motor was drawing so hard it was de-soldering my deans connections
While I am not meticulous about maintenance, these items are all tough if not impossible to diagnose, prior to a race.
I also have a first run SCT410 that lends to the frustrations, especially a double DNF...
08-26-2013, 06:00 PM
#8833
This is as tough a buggy as any out there.. I've broke 1 shock shaft in the 4 months of racing mine, and that was in practice with me just seeing what I could getaway with by cutting track and hitting a pole at full speed, there are guys at the track I run at that are not good but swear there on pace but somehow manage to break and bend the craziest stuff..
I bought a whole bunch of spares and have managed to use none of them, not even worn out, only parts I have replaced are ones I lose in the grass haha
I bought a whole bunch of spares and have managed to use none of them, not even worn out, only parts I have replaced are ones I lose in the grass haha
08-26-2013, 06:10 PM
#8834
Tech Regular
iTrader: (7)
I would say..........you can't drive. and.....you can't build. I had a buddy that was breaking his mugen and he called them to complain. That's what they said. That's what I think. Probably way to aggressive. I have had mine for a while and I can't drive for @#*%. But the car is a tank. I gave my remote to a ten year old girl in a main because she broke her car. She bounced it off the walls for a while. I've never bent anything, only think I ever broke was a servo arm. It was junk anyway.
I have literally tanked huge triples with both the buggy and sct410 and watched them cartwheel 15 feet into a wall and all I've ever broke is a front bumper on the sct410 which I'm still using cause it barely cracked it and I popped a rear hinge pin out of the plastic holder the only thing my buggy has ever broke is records I even hit an associated head on when he flew into the wrong lane broke his servo, and a arm I just kept going
08-26-2013, 06:20 PM
#8835
A little about my driving, I am not a pro, but I am not a hack, I finish mostly top 5 in the A's and can run a 6 min qualifier with minimal mistakes.
I was an early adopter of this buggy, and since I have been driving it over 1 year of outdoor use in the northeast I have broken:
6-7 front arms, Max 3 were my fault (still using normal not HD, normal have been better in warmer weather)
4 sets of servo gears (due to saver spring) Savox 2274 SG and loosening the spring has stopped this.
3 shock shafts, one resulted in the loss of a Kyosho orange spring (normal jump, normal landing)
2 dogbones The most recent was Yesterday
Inner motor mount had to be replaced, even with loctite the bottom screw would back out, and allow the motor to angle, loosening the pinion gear and driving it back into the motor mount block.
Before I could figure out what was up with the motor mount I had some over current situations where the motor was drawing so hard it was de-soldering my deans connections
While I am not meticulous about maintenance, these items are all tough if not impossible to diagnose, prior to a race.
I also have a first run SCT410 that lends to the frustrations, especially a double DNF...
I was an early adopter of this buggy, and since I have been driving it over 1 year of outdoor use in the northeast I have broken:
6-7 front arms, Max 3 were my fault (still using normal not HD, normal have been better in warmer weather)
4 sets of servo gears (due to saver spring) Savox 2274 SG and loosening the spring has stopped this.
3 shock shafts, one resulted in the loss of a Kyosho orange spring (normal jump, normal landing)
2 dogbones The most recent was Yesterday
Inner motor mount had to be replaced, even with loctite the bottom screw would back out, and allow the motor to angle, loosening the pinion gear and driving it back into the motor mount block.
Before I could figure out what was up with the motor mount I had some over current situations where the motor was drawing so hard it was de-soldering my deans connections
While I am not meticulous about maintenance, these items are all tough if not impossible to diagnose, prior to a race.
I also have a first run SCT410 that lends to the frustrations, especially a double DNF...