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Tekno RC EB48 Thread

Old 08-26-2013, 07:26 AM
  #8806  
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Default Good starting setup

Hey guys i need to know a good neutral baseline setup for medium to high bite,medium to large indoor track with a nice flowing layout. The main answers im looking for is the shock oil and spring combination and maybe diff oils too even though that is really driver specific,I am using the tekno 8x1.3 pistons,any little tips on the new .2 build will be nice as well,thanks for any replies.
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Old 08-26-2013, 07:55 AM
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Hi all,

Has anyone had a chance to run the 48.2 and original 48 side by side? Can you tell me what the differences are in feel, handling, and especially durability

I am tired of all my issues with the Gen 1 car, including another DNF due to broken parts this weekend, I have priced out .2 upgrade and retail is $390+, this does not include newer shock bodies, just the parts listed on 48.2. Ouch

Considering the cost of the upgrade I am very interested to see if it is even worth it for me to continue with my Teknos
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Old 08-26-2013, 08:00 AM
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There are no new shock bodies listed on the updated parts for the EB48.2.

I'd imagine the cars handle pretty well the same as an original EB48 (using the same updated setup), possibly some gained durability using the latest option parts (shock bushings/guides, diff internals, drive shafts, etc.)
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Old 08-26-2013, 08:21 AM
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Default .2 First Run

Curtis Door setup with Tekno Springs.

Car felt really good. This was a 2100 with 17T to answer that earlier question.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 08-26-2013, 08:43 AM
  #8810  
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Originally Posted by cryofix
Hi all,

Has anyone had a chance to run the 48.2 and original 48 side by side? Can you tell me what the differences are in feel, handling, and especially durability

I am tired of all my issues with the Gen 1 car, including another DNF due to broken parts this weekend, I have priced out .2 upgrade and retail is $390+, this does not include newer shock bodies, just the parts listed on 48.2. Ouch

Considering the cost of the upgrade I am very interested to see if it is even worth it for me to continue with my Teknos
What issues are you having? If you are DNFing due to breakage with the Tekno, Im afraid you wont have much better luck with another car. I have beaten my teknos relentlessly and haven't had any complaints with durability.
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Old 08-26-2013, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by jhautz
What issues are you having? If you are DNFing due to breakage with the Tekno, Im afraid you wont have much better luck with another car. I have beaten my teknos relentlessly and haven't had any complaints with durability.
Agreed, I have had no breakages that were not warranted because i lawn darted too many times or some other user error.

the .2 parts are more or less just lightened and/or more durable pieces in regards to wear except arms which are for strength, only geometry change is the rear housing angle which is more for durability as well. any parts on the .2 are not "must-haves" better off buying them as the originals wear out if you do want to keep the Tekno.
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Old 08-26-2013, 10:08 AM
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It was just a club race, but Tekno was the entire field of eBuggy entries this week. Wins are more difficult with everybody driving these things now! LOL
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Old 08-26-2013, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Bernard_Jr
Are you using the same tires?
Yes we were running the same tires.
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Old 08-26-2013, 10:49 AM
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A little about my driving, I am not a pro, but I am not a hack, I finish mostly top 5 in the A's and can run a 6 min qualifier with minimal mistakes.

I was an early adopter of this buggy, and since I have been driving it over 1 year of outdoor use in the northeast I have broken:

6-7 front arms, Max 3 were my fault (still using normal not HD, normal have been better in warmer weather)
4 sets of servo gears (due to saver spring) Savox 2274 SG and loosening the spring has stopped this.
3 shock shafts, one resulted in the loss of a Kyosho orange spring (normal jump, normal landing)
2 dogbones The most recent was Yesterday
Inner motor mount had to be replaced, even with loctite the bottom screw would back out, and allow the motor to angle, loosening the pinion gear and driving it back into the motor mount block.

Before I could figure out what was up with the motor mount I had some over current situations where the motor was drawing so hard it was de-soldering my deans connections

While I am not meticulous about maintenance, these items are all tough if not impossible to diagnose, prior to a race.

I also have a first run SCT410 that lends to the frustrations, especially a double DNF...
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Old 08-26-2013, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Gene158
Yes we were running the same tires.
Guess the simple answer is to just go back to the stock setup if you liked how his drove.

Besides that maybe a little extra weight in the rear.
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Old 08-26-2013, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Graham11
Agreed, I have had no breakages that were not warranted because i lawn darted too many times or some other user error.

the .2 parts are more or less just lightened and/or more durable pieces in regards to wear except arms which are for strength, only geometry change is the rear housing angle which is more for durability as well. any parts on the .2 are not "must-haves" better off buying them as the originals wear out if you do want to keep the Tekno.

Graham

Where do you run Hobby Hut?
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Old 08-26-2013, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by cryofix
Graham

Where do you run Hobby Hut?
Yup
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Old 08-26-2013, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by cryofix
A little about my driving, I am not a pro, but I am not a hack, I finish mostly top 5 in the A's and can run a 6 min qualifier with minimal mistakes.

I was an early adopter of this buggy, and since I have been driving it over 1 year of outdoor use in the northeast I have broken:

6-7 front arms, Max 3 were my fault (still using normal not HD, normal have been better in warmer weather)
4 sets of servo gears (due to saver spring) Savox 2274 SG and loosening the spring has stopped this.
3 shock shafts, one resulted in the loss of a Kyosho orange spring (normal jump, normal landing)
2 dogbones The most recent was Yesterday
Inner motor mount had to be replaced, even with loctite the bottom screw would back out, and allow the motor to angle, loosening the pinion gear and driving it back into the motor mount block.

Before I could figure out what was up with the motor mount I had some over current situations where the motor was drawing so hard it was de-soldering my deans connections

While I am not meticulous about maintenance, these items are all tough if not impossible to diagnose, prior to a race.

I also have a first run SCT410 that lends to the frustrations, especially a double DNF...
Wow that sucks, I have not had my buggy long but sct410 for a few months and only broke the rear diff case nosediving on to the roof too much but yea sounds like you havent had great luck.
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Old 08-26-2013, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by cryofix
A little about my driving, I am not a pro, but I am not a hack, I finish mostly top 5 in the A's and can run a 6 min qualifier with minimal mistakes.

I was an early adopter of this buggy, and since I have been driving it over 1 year of outdoor use in the northeast I have broken:

6-7 front arms, Max 3 were my fault (still using normal not HD, normal have been better in warmer weather)
4 sets of servo gears (due to saver spring) Savox 2274 SG and loosening the spring has stopped this.
3 shock shafts, one resulted in the loss of a Kyosho orange spring (normal jump, normal landing)
2 dogbones The most recent was Yesterday
Inner motor mount had to be replaced, even with loctite the bottom screw would back out, and allow the motor to angle, loosening the pinion gear and driving it back into the motor mount block.

Before I could figure out what was up with the motor mount I had some over current situations where the motor was drawing so hard it was de-soldering my deans connections

While I am not meticulous about maintenance, these items are all tough if not impossible to diagnose, prior to a race.

I also have a first run SCT410 that lends to the frustrations, especially a double DNF...
Wow, that does suck. I had a first run eb48 as well and in all the time of running it I have only broken one shock end (head on collision with another buggy in the wrong lane), cracked a rear diff case ( bad wing landing with no rear chassis brace (I always run a rear chassis brace now and have never had another issue), and one bent wing mount.(same bad wing landing crash).

Other than that it was rock solid.

I recently sold it and am getting a .2 now just cuz I like to waste money and like having the latest and greatest.

On the SCT410 the only thing broken on it since I got it was the rear arm front hing pin mount. (plastic one). Other than that its been solid. Again, it is a first run kit.

Sounds like we are about the same skill level of driver. I can find the podium at typical club races, but at a big race just try to find my way into the top 25%.
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Old 08-26-2013, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by cryofix
A little about my driving, I am not a pro, but I am not a hack, I finish mostly top 5 in the A's and can run a 6 min qualifier with minimal mistakes.

I was an early adopter of this buggy, and since I have been driving it over 1 year of outdoor use in the northeast I have broken:

6-7 front arms, Max 3 were my fault (still using normal not HD, normal have been better in warmer weather)
4 sets of servo gears (due to saver spring) Savox 2274 SG and loosening the spring has stopped this.
3 shock shafts, one resulted in the loss of a Kyosho orange spring (normal jump, normal landing)
2 dogbones The most recent was Yesterday
Inner motor mount had to be replaced, even with loctite the bottom screw would back out, and allow the motor to angle, loosening the pinion gear and driving it back into the motor mount block.

Before I could figure out what was up with the motor mount I had some over current situations where the motor was drawing so hard it was de-soldering my deans connections

While I am not meticulous about maintenance, these items are all tough if not impossible to diagnose, prior to a race.

I also have a first run SCT410 that lends to the frustrations, especially a double DNF...
The arms have been fairly well covered before. The standard arms are pretty good in warm weather and the extra strong arms tend to cure the issue in cold as well (and are included in the .2).

Servo gears are not part of the car, nor a result of the car itself. If you were locking the servo saver though, and that's why your servo was killing itself, consider the new heavy duty servo saver spring (also part of the .2 kit).

Shock shafts themselves have not changed, and with exception to one of the early sets possibly being too hard (I don't think that was ever confirmed, though people stopped having large numbers of issues with them), there must me something else going on. In any case, the new shock shaft guides (also part of the .2 kit) should help this by making a longer point of guidance and pressure distribution to help prevent both bends and breaks.

Dogbones tend to snap if you end up with notched outdrives, or you run without braces and taco the chassis with flex (the chassis comes back to flat and true no problem) while on power. I shattered a few with early outdrives, and thought I was ok, but I wasn't. The outdrives tend to wear (though I've only ever had to replace them once, so the wear isn't high, except on that very first batch which was quickly replaced by Tekno) without it showing through to the outside, so you won't notice it by a quick visual inspection unless you're also turning the drivetrain and looking at it from all angles with the dog bone pushed in each direction, etc. The new rear diff casing (also part of the .2 kit) reduces the angles to reduce wear, so this should happen less often for that dogbone now.

The inner mount hasn't been changed to my knowledge, but also hasn't tended to be a problem. The sliding around issue was noted by some, and the suggested fix is to use a flat head with countersunk washer, rather than a round head screw. This gives more surface area for it to grab and distribute the strain, which reduces how much you might bend/flex the outer mount, as well as how likely a screw is to back out of the inner mount.

All of these are simple to put on an original car.
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