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Old 05-31-2013 | 04:16 AM
  #6856  
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Originally Posted by Dont Hack Me
Slotmachine- have you tried the titanium pins....or anyone. How well do they hold up?
I have only tried the stock ones...........Last Wed. I had a hard hit with the new stronger arms installed and instead of bending the pin I snapped it off and broke a front shock tower! I do plan on ordering the pins I posted a link to though.
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Old 05-31-2013 | 04:24 AM
  #6857  
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Originally Posted by WolfAusti
Can someone kindly share a part number for an aluminum servo horn that works well and with no body rub? Just bought an eb48 and am itching to get her going.
VP PRO USA sells a very low profile one that almost rubs the top of the servo it is so low and its only $5.49. They sell them for all brands of servos. I am using them on both Tekno cars. You cant put a nut on the bottom but it has not been an issue yet for me.
http://www.vpprousa.com/rc-parts-acc...category_id=22

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Old 05-31-2013 | 06:28 AM
  #6858  
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If u type in hot bodies servo horn on ebay a couple stores have the 23 spline for JR/spek part# wont bring it up tho.
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Old 05-31-2013 | 07:02 AM
  #6859  
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Originally Posted by JW98
Quick can paint job for the weekend.



John Walters
Very sharp...Very nice looking body jconcepts came out with. Great job, and can't wait until I get mine.
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Old 05-31-2013 | 07:07 AM
  #6860  
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Originally Posted by BashemSmashem
Painted a new stock lid !





And a couple next to my SCT410

Great job Bashem...you're color choice's never cease to amaze me lol! Looks to me, you have that marble technique down pat.
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Old 05-31-2013 | 10:54 AM
  #6861  
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Originally Posted by Blown up
If u type in hot bodies servo horn on ebay a couple stores have the 23 spline for JR/spek part# wont bring it up tho.
I was so excited to find one that I did not look at the numbers right and bought a 23T when I needed a 25T. Still looking for a arm to fit the savox. I have to laugh at myself for this stupid ebay mistake.
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Old 05-31-2013 | 11:13 AM
  #6862  
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Now you have to buy a JR servo to fit the arm.

Last edited by w_dupree; 05-31-2013 at 06:18 PM. Reason: Edited for clarification
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Old 05-31-2013 | 01:25 PM
  #6863  
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Other arms will fit. As a matter of fact I love the Racer's Edge pro horns. I just shimmed the ackerman end up with a large (3mm) washer and a longer screw and used some loctite on the arm/screw. No issues, They work great. I can post a pic of my setup if need be so others see/understand it
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Old 05-31-2013 | 02:31 PM
  #6864  
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This one works well. I have it on My SC410 and am thinking about getting one for my EB48. I like it better than the Hot Bodies horn.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...orn-25T-ProTek

Its offset down a little rather than up alot like the HB horn. You just mount the link to the top of this and it is almost perfectly flat.
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Old 05-31-2013 | 05:41 PM
  #6865  
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Originally Posted by HollywoodRC
I was so excited to find one that I did not look at the numbers right and bought a 23T when I needed a 25T. Still looking for a arm to fit the savox. I have to laugh at myself for this stupid ebay mistake.
I'll buy it from ya. I run Hitec. PM me with email for paypal if interested?

EDIT: Woops - disregard. I read the poster who replied to yours who said it was Hitec. 24T is Hitec, 23 is JR.
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Old 05-31-2013 | 06:01 PM
  #6866  
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Originally Posted by GrimReminder
Great job Bashem...you're color choice's never cease to amaze me lol! Looks to me, you have that marble technique down pat.
Thanks Grim ! Wanted to do something different this time from my normal blue/white schemes ....... They look a little more raspberry in person than the pink the camera makes them look . There is also a florescent grieen outline on the flames of the buggy that the camera doesn't pick up .....
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Old 06-01-2013 | 12:48 AM
  #6867  
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Originally Posted by Curtis Door
I'm really happy to hear that you like it so much! It's great to get feedback like that. The car was too unstable for me when I first got it, so I just kept working on it until I liked it.

I think the Kyosho springs will help with the steering. If not, let me know and I'll do what I can. I tried 3K in the rear diff and didn't like it. The car constantly wanted to diff out and over rotate coming out of the corners. The diffs in this car are very small, so you have to run thicker oil than normal. You could try moving the front shocks in one hole on the tower.
I went to the track today only to find the the we're laying down some sugar, so I couldn't test your suggestion on moving the front shocks in one hole. The kyo orange springs are nowhere to be found, hope they become available soon. I will do my best to try it out this weekend. Gonna keep the 7/7/5 for now, because I do like the power out of the turns. I am going to go with some 400 shock fluid the rear see if the helps any before I get stiffer springs. See if that helps any.

I have some mugen rear 1.5/8.75 springs don't know what the n/mm is think these may work?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Soft-15-875T-2


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Old 06-01-2013 | 02:10 AM
  #6868  
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What does the stock shock oil viscosities #450 and #350 correspond to in other viscosity measurement systems? cP? cSt? Wt?

Normally I use Ultimate Racings shock oils. What will be good replacements for the stock shock oils?

/Birger

Last edited by bico; 06-01-2013 at 05:49 AM.
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Old 06-01-2013 | 07:07 AM
  #6869  
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Now I think I understand y guys are going to the heavier spring in the rear. Went to RCE's outdoor for the first time and they have a nice big track, sweet driver's stand and a lot of great racer's. I had the new vport CSI's w/recomended 27.5/20 and stock springs that felt good on the bench but after a few laps in the 95*heat I bumped it up to 35/30, front was $ and rear I had nice ride hight but slow rebound like the spring wasn't heavy enough or oil was too thick. There was a couple sections of track where I had chassis slap so bad that it would send me a$$ ova into the next lane. 1 spot it was every other lap, There was a 180 into a sweet step up that had a nice downside to a double into a tight 90* lefthander, I was having better luck over shooting the double to flat "w/my 4x4sc" because the landing was kinda tall and steep so u would case it real easy. When I would try this w/the buggy, the chassis would slap and bounce right ova on the wing or I'd case it and do the same thing! So, New CSI blue's soak up bumps great but I think I need the stiffer r spring like most of u run... A guy at the track said if the front is too stiff it will slap the rear but the front feels good to me. Any thought's?

BTW, I turned down my .15 jr 9100t servo speed to 65% on spektrum DX3R pro, stiffened up the rear roll by dropping the link on the tower, added a 2.6 sway bar, also have the 2.4 in the front, cut the bat tray so lipo slides back to the motor mount w/2 foam pads in front. The EB dug hard and stayed planted in the corners. Wondering if I might have to change it back when I use a stiffer rear spring tho..

Last edited by Blown up; 06-01-2013 at 01:40 PM. Reason: added info
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Old 06-01-2013 | 08:21 AM
  #6870  
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Originally Posted by streetsports
Its a good thing...it means you got the good diffs.
My new eb48 also came with the shims and you say it's good that it means we got the good diffs. What do you mean? That the lightweight sct diffs were included with the buggy?
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