So my center diff case melted where the planetary gears press against the inner wall.

It clearly let go during an acceleration pass where the front end lifted and front wheels were off the ground, causing "over drive" to the front. So the center diff was working very hard at failure.

Upon disassembly, there were lots of "plastic chunks in the slurry. I'm guessing the diff oil leaked over maybe 25 runs, as it was not full.

So
How many have had this kind of failure?
Is there a recommended disassemble and inspect interval?

Other comments?

im with rockthecatbox21, this is way to much info for me to process,guess im too old to handle all this.....lol

This says it all as far as I'm concerned. By low speed dampening he's also saying the greater # of smaller holes "10x1.1" will pack up to quickly causing the car to feel lazy. 10x1.2's fix that but gain chassis slap. I don't have the 8x1.3's handy so going to try drilling 5 of the 10x1.1 holes out to 1.2 and should be really close to the 8x1.3's.

When I first asked about pistons a few pages back I was also misinformed and agree that if one doesn't kno for sure then to PLEASE leave the answering to someone who is.

You and I are in the same boat. That's always been my understanding and my experience. I tried a friend's buggy with white 8x1.2, mine with the black 8x1.2, and stock 10x1.1. Oils were all 30r/35f. The stock slapped the hardest, followed by the white (barely slapped), followed by the black (didn't slap).

Hi guys I just received the shock tools by chris and I have to say they are great a pleasure to use and makes rebuilding the shocks so much easier
Good job chris

thank you. thats all we needed. hahhahahaahhah i got mine pretty much ready for some podium pics

Wow...still no pictures of that J-Concepts Finnisher Body yet? The anticipation is killing me. Yes I know that all the Finnisher bodies are pretty much the same, but I really would like to see how it looks on the skinny ass EB48.

I haven't seen a picture yet either but ordered one. To me it has to be better then the stock body.

Don't get me wrong I love my EB48, but the skinnyness I'm not a fan of. Right now I'm machining some new mudguards out of delrin at work to make the buggy wider to be able to run some different bodies.

Got my tekno running today. I bought a nearly new roller, and rebuilt it with 1.2x8 hole and 1.3x8 hole pistons with 350cst front and rear with serpent v2 orange rear springs . I put one pack through it on the track and made some adjustments to the rear camber link setting, and bam! So easy to drive. Unfortunatly it was one of those day when everything is running fine when practicing, the qualifying.....poooo hall sensor goes out on the motor, then my sct410's fan stops working on the esc, and thermaled in qualifying and in the main..... Oh well, Tekno for life now! This buggy is sick...

Tekno for life. Sounds good.

This is also why some pistons have there holes drilled at an angle...makes the hole deeper without needing a thicker piston.

The updated diffs aren't faulty like the originals that should have been trashed...its an expensive fix. After the good arms, springs, pistons, servo horn, new diffs, new servo saver sporing and some random sanding she'll be a champ...

Oh and don't feel bad, some people melted there cases during break in...the new diffs don't require break in.

Ummmm, my original eb48 diffs are fine. No leakage and everything works fine. Good arms? Don't need em', just don't drive like an arse. Stock springs? They're fine too. Stock pistons? They work great for me. New servo saver spring? Don't need that either, stock one works fine. Sanding, yes i did have to sand the shock parts from the tree. Servo horn, yeah it is a good insurance item to have. I run the ofna one, but my buddy has run the plastic stock one ever since he got his, with no issues whatsoever. The tone of your post is kind of passive-agressive in the fact that you make it seem like it has a lot of problems that need to be fixed, which it doesn't.