2LikesTekno RC EB48 Thread
08-24-2012 | 06:22 AM
#1846
I know you seen this MR. D
But I want to share this with some of the People that don't go to this rcmag.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted on: 24/08/2012, 9:16:52 Post subject: Répondre en citant
I would like to congratulate warmly the professionalism of TEKNO RC and its boos Daniel Lewis is heavily involved, ok the car has very very slight little problem, but nothing really important, I immediately said, TEKNO RC does not even sponsor me, I pay for my car, but in a world where manufacturers look down on us, it is good that is close to some of their clients.
Just for that I want to promote this car
if you look at the cards settings and tips there plenty to improve the car.
You may notice that the different ar soften and harden av, to make the car easier
Good news from the next shipment of early October, the record will still be improved upon and details of the car will be subject to editorial for more quality
sebastien Wartelle
---------------------------------------------
Hey Daniel,
I am really glad to see you on this forum Francophone.
You're the first manufacturer to agree to give information on a forum, I really appreciate it.
If the Car has the buzz, it's through you, congratulation
JP
-------------------------------------
Great Job Boss man.
But I want to share this with some of the People that don't go to this rcmag.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted on: 24/08/2012, 9:16:52 Post subject: Répondre en citant
I would like to congratulate warmly the professionalism of TEKNO RC and its boos Daniel Lewis is heavily involved, ok the car has very very slight little problem, but nothing really important, I immediately said, TEKNO RC does not even sponsor me, I pay for my car, but in a world where manufacturers look down on us, it is good that is close to some of their clients.
Just for that I want to promote this car
if you look at the cards settings and tips there plenty to improve the car.
You may notice that the different ar soften and harden av, to make the car easier
Good news from the next shipment of early October, the record will still be improved upon and details of the car will be subject to editorial for more quality
sebastien Wartelle
---------------------------------------------
Hey Daniel,
I am really glad to see you on this forum Francophone.
You're the first manufacturer to agree to give information on a forum, I really appreciate it.
If the Car has the buzz, it's through you, congratulation
JP
-------------------------------------
Great Job Boss man.
08-24-2012 | 09:25 AM
#1848
08-24-2012 | 09:30 AM
#1849
I plan on doing some testing this weekend with this tekno car using both heavy and light battery/motor setups.
08-24-2012 | 09:47 AM
#1850
Sometimes a little extra weight isn't a bad thing. There are some tracks (especially low traction ones) where running a little heavier setup just makes the car more consistent. Im not talking about this car specifically, but in general, I have found that I like the way my RC8.2e drives MUCH better with a full size (4s 5000mah) battery vs the lightweight (4s 3700mah) setup. Its just alot more consistent and predictable. The lower the traction the more it makes a difference for me.
I plan on doing some testing this weekend with this tekno car using both heavy and light battery/motor setups.
I plan on doing some testing this weekend with this tekno car using both heavy and light battery/motor setups.
08-24-2012 | 09:50 AM
#1851
+1
Same way I built mine. This is pretty close to what is in the manual except use some tools to really crank down on the shock cap. I believe it is a 12mm wrench on bottom.
Same way I built mine. This is pretty close to what is in the manual except use some tools to really crank down on the shock cap. I believe it is a 12mm wrench on bottom.
In the near future I'll have my full build online. In the meantime, I wanted to share how I build the shocks, which seems to have worked great so far.
1) assemble shock and piston
2) fill about 95% and run the piston up and down about 5 times slowly
3) pull piston all the way out and let sit for 10 minutes
4) fill shock until full (top edge of meniscus should be at top of shock)
5) slowly push the piston up as far as it will go (if you go fast you'll push a bunch of oil out the top, so stay really slow)
6) set bladder down on one edge of shock, press the bladder down slowly towards the other side of the shock to push the piston down and push out any excess oil (wipe only the bottom half of the threads off, so as to not disturb the bladder seal)
7) pull piston from eyelet about 1mm to seal up the bladder with some suction
8) hand tighten shock top on while making sure the shock doesn't move (note that you need to be careful to not hit the edge of the bladder with the top and break the seal while pushing it down to the threads)
9) put a wrench on the bottom and something through the top and crank it down
So far, they all turned out with the same 0 rebound and no leaking. I'm using the rubber O-ring as well, which simply helps hold the top in place once tightened...it will make it more difficult to tighten the last bit though, so make sure you CRANK on it at the end.
1) assemble shock and piston
2) fill about 95% and run the piston up and down about 5 times slowly
3) pull piston all the way out and let sit for 10 minutes
4) fill shock until full (top edge of meniscus should be at top of shock)
5) slowly push the piston up as far as it will go (if you go fast you'll push a bunch of oil out the top, so stay really slow)
6) set bladder down on one edge of shock, press the bladder down slowly towards the other side of the shock to push the piston down and push out any excess oil (wipe only the bottom half of the threads off, so as to not disturb the bladder seal)
7) pull piston from eyelet about 1mm to seal up the bladder with some suction
8) hand tighten shock top on while making sure the shock doesn't move (note that you need to be careful to not hit the edge of the bladder with the top and break the seal while pushing it down to the threads)
9) put a wrench on the bottom and something through the top and crank it down
So far, they all turned out with the same 0 rebound and no leaking. I'm using the rubber O-ring as well, which simply helps hold the top in place once tightened...it will make it more difficult to tighten the last bit though, so make sure you CRANK on it at the end.
08-24-2012 | 09:54 AM
#1852
No kidding. I tried the MMM with 2200 and it was great out doors, but indoors at WCRC it was way too much. Huge difference between the Castle 2200 and a sensored system (I used a Tekin 1900 and RX8) especially when running indoors, tight, and high traction.
08-24-2012 | 10:10 AM
#1853
Tech Rookie
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 9
Hallo,
is there anyone who drives a Hacker Tensoric 8 speed controller with a Hacker Skalar 8 Motor in his car?
I have already build my car but the Size of the Hacker parts are to large for the EB 48.
I have no idea!
Greets
Michael
is there anyone who drives a Hacker Tensoric 8 speed controller with a Hacker Skalar 8 Motor in his car?
I have already build my car but the Size of the Hacker parts are to large for the EB 48.
I have no idea!
Greets
Michael
08-24-2012 | 10:23 AM
#1854
Sometimes a little extra weight isn't a bad thing. There are some tracks (especially low traction ones) where running a little heavier setup just makes the car more consistent. Im not talking about this car specifically, but in general, I have found that I like the way my RC8.2e drives MUCH better with a full size (4s 5000mah) battery vs the lightweight (4s 3700mah) setup. Its just alot more consistent and predictable. The lower the traction the more it makes a difference for me.
I plan on doing some testing this weekend with this tekno car using both heavy and light battery/motor setups.
I plan on doing some testing this weekend with this tekno car using both heavy and light battery/motor setups.
08-24-2012 | 10:49 AM
#1855
Sometimes a little extra weight isn't a bad thing. There are some tracks (especially low traction ones) where running a little heavier setup just makes the car more consistent. Im not talking about this car specifically, but in general, I have found that I like the way my RC8.2e drives MUCH better with a full size (4s 5000mah) battery vs the lightweight (4s 3700mah) setup. Its just alot more consistent and predictable. The lower the traction the more it makes a difference for me.
I plan on doing some testing this weekend with this tekno car using both heavy and light battery/motor setups.
I plan on doing some testing this weekend with this tekno car using both heavy and light battery/motor setups.
08-24-2012 | 11:06 AM
#1856
Got it. I wish you had posted your setup a day earlier. I'm heading to the track this afternoon. I'm going to run it stock and then try making a couple of your changes at a time so I can see what difference they make.
Does moving the steering link back on the center link make the steering more or less responsive?
Thanks,
Chris
Does moving the steering link back on the center link make the steering more or less responsive?
Thanks,
Chris
08-24-2012 | 11:54 AM
#1857
Got it. I wish you had posted your setup a day earlier. I'm heading to the track this afternoon. I'm going to run it stock and then try making a couple of your changes at a time so I can see what difference they make.
Does moving the steering link back on the center link make the steering more or less responsive?
Thanks,
Chris
Does moving the steering link back on the center link make the steering more or less responsive?
Thanks,
Chris
Remember to check toe and bump settings when changing the Ackerman hole.
08-24-2012 | 12:46 PM
#1858
Hey Guys,
I'm Neal, Just joined here a few days ago, this is my first post as you can probably see. I've been reading this thread like it's my job(mostly while i'm at my job). I love the site and can't believe i took so long to register here. Just wanted to say after spending some time on this thread, i'm gonna go ahead and buy an eb48. This is kind of a jump for me as i haven't had a non-Losi kit in 6 years or so. I see Dan posting on here daily (...hourly even) with responses and tips... and i want him to know that goes a long way for a guy like me. Alot of times, the team drivers end up being the buffer between the mfg and the customer on the forums. Not the case here, glad to see Dan is not afraid to get directly involved in product development with the avearge guy. Sorry for the longish post, keep up the good work!
I'm Neal, Just joined here a few days ago, this is my first post as you can probably see. I've been reading this thread like it's my job(mostly while i'm at my job). I love the site and can't believe i took so long to register here. Just wanted to say after spending some time on this thread, i'm gonna go ahead and buy an eb48. This is kind of a jump for me as i haven't had a non-Losi kit in 6 years or so. I see Dan posting on here daily (...hourly even) with responses and tips... and i want him to know that goes a long way for a guy like me. Alot of times, the team drivers end up being the buffer between the mfg and the customer on the forums. Not the case here, glad to see Dan is not afraid to get directly involved in product development with the avearge guy. Sorry for the longish post, keep up the good work!
08-24-2012 | 12:51 PM
#1859
I think you're referring to the Ackerman plate. The forward hole gives more outside wheel turn, the rearward hole gives less. Lately I've been thinking of Ackerman in terms of how much extra toe out I want at full lock, or active toe out. More toe out provides more aggressive turn in and less on-power steering (rear hole). Less active toe out is smoother off-power and provides more on-power steering (forward hole). If the car is too twitchy try the forward hole. If you need a little more steering off power, try the rearward hole.
Remember to check toe and bump settings when changing the Ackerman hole.
Remember to check toe and bump settings when changing the Ackerman hole.
