RURC

Glad to se you getting back into a great hobby.

First gas is well on its way out. The electric brushless systems with lipo batteries are out performing them in every way except run time on the large scale cars. I have cars all the way up to 1/4 scale that are electric. I race 1/5 scale touring. The gas cars, even with their longer run time, are barely beating me. I am routinely in the top 5. But this season even that may change, I will be running larger 20,000 mah packs....anyhow back to you.

The parts you have are just fine. If your driving is up to snuff you will run right there. But there can be improvement.

The Novak, to me is a great introductory system. I have never been a big fan of Novak brushless systems. You should see some of the verbal fights Bob Novak and I have had over his systems. But the quality is in there and it will compete well.

Your battery can you give more information. Branding can make a difference. In racing not all batteries are equal. All batteries are fine for practice and bashing but you need the highest, most stable voltage you can get for racing. Lets face it voltage makes RPM. RPM makes speed. Core, Max Amps, Trinity, and the other top line units will provide the most stable voltage under a load. Buy the cheap packs for bashing and practice.

I am unfamiliar with your charger but the charger can make or break a pack. Hyperion and others make chargers that can care for your lipos. The changes in charger technology even just over the last 3 years is a lot. I suggest you buy a new charger. Make sure that the charger you get has compatibility plugs for the balancer on you lipo.

The radios now are generally 2.4 gHz systems and do frequency hopping. Basically that means that unlike your old radio the 'crystals' are digital and the radio reads the the air and hunts for the unused frequency and then locks into that one. This prevents cross chatter between radios. Plus you dont have the 12 inch or longer antenna on the car or the 4 foot one on your radio.

I hope this gives you the information you need.

jpedersm

How can I determine my caster and toe values. Is there a tool I can do this with for my T4? Also just getting back into racing so when making some adjustments dont really know what it does. Is there some info on the web or a book I can get that explains the adjustments on this car?

Toadrick

Yes that was extremely helpful.

bcgriff

iTrader: (3)

As already stated the RC10T4 will do just fine. The motor seems a little on the weak side, but not too bad at all. I have been trying some off brands recently just to compare and have found that a lot of them perform really well. I am currently running a 9.5T Leopard motor and ESC and have been really happy with it.

I have a different perspective on batteries and I am sure there are more out there that disagree with me than agree with me. Specs are specs. Make sure you have 2 or 3 cell which ever you require, ensure your discharge rate will support the motor/esc combo you have, and make sure the mAh rating will give you the run time you want.

I have been finding a lot of new things from www.hobbypartz.com that are really cheap and seem to be performing really well. The "SkyLiPo" brand batteries have been great. They even have some hardcase that run great.

I have been running this 2.4GHz radio and have been really happy with it: http://www.hobbypartz.com/79p-gt3b-carradio-lcd.html
Just my $0.02

Toadrick

I didn't know how to "qoute" the first time. Thank You it was really helpful.

Toadrick

I am going to have to just get to a track and meet some new people and learn about everything again. I was to young to learn about any of the specifics about anything. I am sure in for a rude awakening. It seems like batteries are a big deal. I don't know much about balancing or really what that even is. What a great experiment.

Thanks for the help.

RURC

The motor will not be on the weak side just down a little on RPM /volt. But that is the Novak. If he were to get a Hacker 17.5 that would be a slightly faster motor but would loose in the torque market. Thus making his need for a stable battery even more important. This was part of my discussions with Bob. (FYI my discussions with Bob Novak were back just before and for about 1.5 years after the Novak brushless line released to the market.) Since he is running a 17.5 it seems to me that he is going to run the spec class for 17.5 motors. You really cant compare your 9.5 to any 17.5 motor.

First the guy wants to race. There is not a 3 cell spec race class for 1/10. Specs are only specs if you do not know the exact conditions of how the specs were attained. There is no "standard of the industry" in how to set up the tests that give you the specs most manufacturers use. If you know the exact way the spec was made you can extrapolate if the numbers in the specs will work for you. You are right in the matching your battery to the needs of your system. To be safe give your self at least 50% headroom over and above the requirements of the system. It is not uncommon to see loads (for fractions of a second) that will exceed the max draws that all ESC manufacturers claim. I remember when we were developeing the Castle Mamba 25's for 1/18 cars. Using a DSO we would see peak spike draws routinely at 120 amps. I have had my 1/8 scale cars hit over 270 in this same test. Again I say this is for fractions of a second. But this is still a demand on the batteries. It is this reason that high power brushless systems (Novak, LRP are not HIGH power) will ruin nickle based batteries.

I have not worked with 'SkyLiPo' batteries but there is a reason the ROAR has a testing procedure that batteries must pass to be allowed in the SPEC class. Which I helped write (with Shawn Palmer) several years ago when lipo was first being allowed.

HE already has a very good radio not that yours is bad but his 2.4 gHz radio is more than good enough for this.


TOADRICK thank you for the good words.

RURC

Balancing is something that helps get the most out of your lipos. It is not mandatory in 2 cell packs (like you have) but in a pinch it can make a difference. What happens is the charger monitors each cell independent of one another for proper voltage and can peak each cell separately.

Trick Icarus

because my friend.. it's not just any b4.. since b4/t4/gt2/sc10 parts are compatible i've realy constructed a BTS4.. some parts i could'nt find in aluminum or titanium for the b4, so i had to improvise.. eventualy after i find the right tires and rims that are'nt wobbly like proline bullshit.. it will be the first b4 to exceed 100mph..

Trick Icarus

First.. the quick change rims for the t4 are serious crap.. so out of balance, when you get your rc to 65mph, it wont get any faster and vibrates to peices.. i recommend useing the strc 12mm hex adapters for traxxas or hpi rims.. i heatrd good things about them..

dan-o

iTrader: (105)

just listed my B4 here for sale:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ed-extras.html

SC takes up too much of my time for this class also.

Trick Icarus

this is my new speed run body with head lights, tail lights, and blue/green under glows.. also my new liquid laptop radiator with 40mm led fan and a tiny brushless 6v water pump.. 50ft(only used 10) of 1/8 inch refridgerant copper tubeing, and now my castle motor will never overheat..

racer53

Whats up guys I just finished rebuilding my T4 and I thought i'd show it off a little...

She got new:

RPM Front and Rear Arms
RPM Rod Ends
RPM Gear Cover
RPM Spring Cups
Chassis
Rear Plate
Top plate
Thumbscrews
Complete Diff Rebuild
Complete Shock Rebuild
Alluminum Nuts All Around
And Completely Strip Cleaned

I thought since no one around here is racing them I'll make it a shelf queen and bring it out in 20 years, when people are racing cars that make sc look good.

racer53

I made this seperate from my last post because of picture limitations

You know the old rtr shocks that were blue alluminum and scratched to silver after some use...well I thought that they looked like crap after a while so I sanded the blue off...I started with 150 grit sandpaper to get a majority off and slowly moved up to 400 grit, I finished off by polishing them smooth and heres what I got.

rcjoe99

decent servo for the t4.... moneys tight just looking for something to get me around the track

http://www.losipartshouse.com/servle...peed-Sx/Detail