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Old 11-02-2013, 06:03 AM
  #14221  
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What would I need to convert the rear to hex? I found the front end parts Id need
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Old 03-29-2014, 10:57 AM
  #14222  
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Originally Posted by raj1
For those, like me, who believe the T4 servo saver is terrible in all
situations.

Please read and understand before performing this mod.

Here is how to sub in the kimbrough GT saver. Cut the front of the
battery gate on the chassis. Drill two new holes and counter sink,
these should be the same as stock just 5/16 or .3125 inches in front
of them. The next trick is to add 3/16 or .1875 inches to
the servo mounts in order to shim them away from the chassis. This
is important because the kimbrough saver extends about this much
beyond the servo. I used the associated shock shim kit one 1/8th
and a 3/16 shim CA'd to the mount (note, this can be viewed in the
blurry picture of the servo head on). Lastly, attach the mounts to the
servo, in reverse. Add the associated short stud to the center
inner hole on the Kimbrough saver. Center the saver on the servo
and install to the new chassis holes. Now, take a new T4 servo
saver steering crank set (or old one) and CA glue it, thoroughly.
Install the spring retainer nut and bearings (Take this oportunity
to install bearings if you have the stock bushings and add
one 1/16 inch shim to the top, since there is no more
spring washer). Install the servo along with the Associated servo
saver (hardened or glued) and Kimbrough saver. The assembly should
look like the attached photos. I also used some servo tape on the
other end of the servo to support it (since it is elevated 3/16ths of an
inch from the chassis). Since you're finished, you may want to change
the weight distribution since your heavy duty servo is now 5/16ths of
an inch behind stock. Moreover, don't forget to velcro your lipo to the
battery strap. This is important to keep the battery from exerting force
on the servo in extreme situations like coming up short on a double.

ps, Kim124 is the part number for the GT saver. I have tested this
configuration and it works.

Rudi Johnson
I used #123 Kimbrough servo saver and CA'd the stock saver shut.
I cut the right side ears off and cut the chassis but it's not required.
Works great!
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Old 04-12-2014, 10:57 AM
  #14223  
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Thumbs up Kimbrough Servo Saver in a T-4

I'll do that to my other T-4,but not cut the chassis this time.
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Old 05-16-2014, 08:01 AM
  #14224  
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Can someone tell what T4 version I have here

I think its t4.2 race spec but not 100% sure and know how to tell.

Thanks!

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Old 05-16-2014, 08:08 AM
  #14225  
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Could be an RTR 4.2.

Factory Team battery strap
Maybe an STRC rear chassis brace?
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Old 05-16-2014, 11:03 AM
  #14226  
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Questions?? T-4.1?

Originally Posted by Rabidtrout
Could be an RTR 4.2.

Factory Team battery strap
Maybe an STRC rear chassis brace?
I thought the 4.1 and 4.2 had rear hex drives and gear diffs. Battery brace is way heavier than the stock T-4.
Looks like an upgraded T-4.
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Old 06-07-2014, 12:06 PM
  #14227  
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Thumbs up Tired of losing the spur cover cap?

Originally Posted by DerekL
Post your pics, setups, hopups, etc!!
This:

I used part of a Dubro body clip retainer.
Threaded into each part. Works fine. Looks cool.
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Old 07-10-2014, 12:44 PM
  #14228  
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Thumbs up Add ons for T-4.

Originally Posted by ddd228
This:

I used part of a Dubro body clip retainer.
Threaded into each part. Works fine. Looks cool.
See the double rear bumper?
I made another one.




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Old 09-06-2014, 09:08 PM
  #14229  
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I'm probably getting back into racing a bit, been away about 5-6 years. I used to run panther or losi studs in the rear. Never liked step pins.. Does anybody make a tire like those anymore?
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Old 09-06-2014, 10:52 PM
  #14230  
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Originally Posted by jbrow1
I'm probably getting back into racing a bit, been away about 5-6 years. I used to run panther or losi studs in the rear. Never liked step pins.. Does anybody make a tire like those anymore?
Prolines:http://prolineracing.com/1-10-truck-tires-race
Also check out AKA tires.
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Old 09-07-2014, 07:04 AM
  #14231  
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Originally Posted by ddd228
Prolines:http://prolineracing.com/1-10-truck-tires-race
Also check out AKA tires.
Jconcepts pressure point front bar code rears are a hot setup around here.
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Old 09-09-2014, 01:44 PM
  #14232  
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Thumbs up TIRES.

Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
Jconcepts pressure point front bar code rears are a hot setup around here.
+1 on the bar codes. At TRCR in Tacoma,WA they work fine.I just run the old edges or Proline Blades in front.

I used to race but now I'm just a basher.
Where do I look for 17mm rear wheel adapters so I can mount 1/8 scale buggy tires and wheels?

I have the old school T-4,still.

I set some Emaxx tires next to my truck and that's a little overkill and I couldn't gear it down enough.





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Old 09-12-2014, 09:06 PM
  #14233  
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Any thoughts on an xp2g 2.4ghz radio that the binding light on the radio never stops flashing? Everything seems to bind and it works, just always flashing. I was doing this in the basement, and didn't get to run it outside yet to test the range. The receiver light does stay solid green as if everything is bound correctly. And the failsafe works when I shut the radio off with throttle applied. I'll try it as it is, just curious if any others have had this problem.
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Old 09-14-2014, 04:30 PM
  #14234  
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Hey guys, i know that there's probably some mention of it in the previous pages but I don't really have time to read through. Just getting back into racing and i was wondering what a good esc/motor combo would be for 2wd stock buggy these days. Cheers
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Old 09-25-2014, 10:16 AM
  #14235  
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Hi Everyone,

I picked up a castle creation sidewinder 3 5700kv esc/motor combo for my T4. I am wondering if anyone has any gearing experience with this combo. I am just starting to install it and want to know if the gearing needs to be changed. the motor that came with this truck is a brushed model, so not sure if there will be issues. Thanks!
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