Armaan

iTrader: (49)

I'm using a 72/Spur with 25/Pinion.

yourstruly22

iTrader: (2)

2 part question I've been having a problems with breaking bearings 3/16 * 3/8. Then I go to replace them with the part number #6906 that's the number from the Factory team kit. My first question is in my ft kit I got all black rubber bearings Did you? I ask because when I got my new bearing with the ft part number #6906 they were teflon sealed I think. Also what are the best alternatives bearings for racing that don't break so fast.

klaymon

iTrader: (71)

If you're breaking bearings in the same place repeatedly, maybe you have another problem to address.

http://www.acerracing.com/Ball_Bearings-1-1.html
http://www.avidrc.com/product/?c=1

Avid's bearings are $1 each for sealed/shielded (seal on side facing out, shield on side facing in). These are the ones I get. For $1 each, it's cheap enough to replace often. Free shipping too I think.
Acer's are $3-$4 for sealed and $1 for shielded.

yourstruly22

iTrader: (2)

Those Avid's look good but what bearings did your ftt4 kit come with?

Davidka

iTrader: (86)

If rear bearings are going out prematurely it's likely because the spacer between them (inside the hub) is worn/too short. If that spacer doesn't relieve the bearings of side load then they go out fast. The way to check is to take the hub off and tighten a wheel onto the axle. Chances are it will be not very smooth. If that's the case, add thin shims (as come with the MIP CVD's) in between the bearings until they support the inner races when the wheel is tightened on.

yourstruly22

iTrader: (2)

I'll check the hub spacer. Did Black our lite brown bearings come with your ft t4 kit?

Jeremey

iTrader: (1)

The teflon sealed bearings are the old FT bearings from years back. They work good but the seals don't keep the dirt out very well.

klaymon

iTrader: (71)

Black came with mine.

Icey101

iTrader: (3)

I have not raced in around four years, so I am updating my B4 for the up and coming season. I purchased a Xerun 120a esc with 10.5 motor. I didn't think this thing was that big until I went to place it in my car...with the fan against the body...the body still will not go down all the way. So the fan would serve no purpose with no real airflow. What would the best way to fix this?

I looked at mounting the esc on the battery bar...I don't like this idea at all.

Take off the fan and run it that way...not sure if this will be an issue with a 10.5 motor.

Just get another esc and run this in another car...not sure I like this option right now because of everything else I am buying.

not home

iTrader: (23)

you dont need any sort of fan with a 10.5

rcman1993

iTrader: (33)

Those chinese esc and motors are crap and will die on you. If money is tight then buy a used novak gtb and a used novak 10.5 on here and put that in. Cheap and reliable.

Icey101

iTrader: (3)

I have done enough research on these chinese esc speed controls to be willing to try them. I have read more positives than negatives. Its not that money is super tight...but with the costs of buying lipos, brushless, SC10 or two...need to conserve it where I can. Worse comes to worse and it smokes...I have a few of LRP brushed esc.

not home

iTrader: (23)

but, you are hearing positives of, yes it works with no problems. they are much slower and much lower end. a used gtb and 10.5 would be 10x better.

Davidka

iTrader: (86)

These are Hobbywing speed controls, the same people that make Speed Passion's stuff which has a good rep and is a leading brand in the UK, a big RC market.

Don't listen to the haters and let us know how you like it. Not Home is right, there's no need for a fan with the 10.5, pull it off and it should fit in the intended spot just fine.

birdie_in_texas

iTrader: (8)

Can you guys help me out?

I quit racing back before there was brushless anything..and now, in coming back to off-road, I am having a helluva hard time trying to figure out gearing.

I have a T4 and B4 (if it ever gets here in the mail)..

I have a castle 4600 for the buggy and a 5700 for the T4..

now, in following this link: http://www.comeseethis.com/gearing/Default.aspx

It just gets MORE confusing..

Where does this guy get his data..?

How does he arrive at an "ideal final drive ratio"..?
How in the hell does he get that a 75 tooth spur and a 35 tooth pinon get me a 5.57:1 gear ratio..? there is no math I no of that works for this..

I am as confused as any human can be..

I am merely trying to get these vehicles on the track, and having no luck..

I even called Castle..the guy told me to get the largest spur I could and start with a VERY small pinion and "..go from there"..

What a crock!

Can anyone of you please shed some light on my old useless brain?