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Old 07-01-2009, 09:53 AM
  #8461  
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Originally Posted by Krio
Yeah, the timing boost is only needed in stock or spec classes, but there's a lot more to it than that. What happens if you have a sensor go bad or cable comes unplugged? The gtb stops and the lrp catches fire...lets say I wasn't happy when that happened on my LRP.



Wild Cherry, AE needs to hire you for all the representin' you do.

Its too bad the SXX is slower than the SPX with spec motors.

Also, I find it irritating when I have to completely remove the esc from the car to put on fresh wires.


I`m not representing LRP !


I`m just satisfied customer.....
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Old 07-01-2009, 10:10 AM
  #8462  
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Buy a Tekin you'll be happy with it Guaranteed !!
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Old 07-01-2009, 10:21 AM
  #8463  
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Originally Posted by UK.hardcore
Lets talk chassis again.
Agreed.

Any new setup tips for the T4 following the Nats last weekend? I'm wondering if there are any "light" team setups coming...
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Old 07-01-2009, 11:12 AM
  #8464  
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Opinion on front tires please?

Do you run front tires, like proline edge? or do you use rears like holeshots on all 4 wheels?

when do you use front specific tires? when rears on the front wheels?

this is oriented towards the truck.
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Old 07-01-2009, 11:19 AM
  #8465  
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On tracks with loam I use tires like the edge. For tracks with consistent dust I run lower profile ribs or rear tires. Hard pack blue groove calls for rear tires most of the time.
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Old 07-01-2009, 11:26 AM
  #8466  
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Originally Posted by Krio
On tracks with loam I use tires like the edge. For tracks with consistent dust I run lower profile ribs or rear tires. Hard pack blue groove calls for rear tires most of the time.
exactly. our local track ranges between wet/loamy to dry/hard/dusty depending on how much water is in the track. I'll move from ribs with goosebumps to holeshots all around as the conditions change along that spectrum.
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Old 07-01-2009, 12:06 PM
  #8467  
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seems like the edge is gonna be alot needed then.

Thanks guys.
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Old 07-01-2009, 12:52 PM
  #8468  
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So you guys are saying for clay/hard packed tracks run edge type tires, and for looser, dusty tracks run something like bow ties, or holeshots?

How would suburbs do on loose-ish tracks? http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ucts_id/141348

Is there any parts of the B4 that should be upgraded right away, or just see what breaks etc? I saw a couple people running aluminum front caster blocks at pegasus... Is this common?
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Old 07-01-2009, 01:01 PM
  #8469  
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wat b4 did u get...factory team or rtr?
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Old 07-01-2009, 01:22 PM
  #8470  
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I haven't got one yet, but I will be getting the factory team. It is worth the extra money right?
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Old 07-01-2009, 01:38 PM
  #8471  
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Originally Posted by B44Zane
So you guys are saying for clay/hard packed tracks run edge type tires, and for looser, dusty tracks run something like bow ties, or holeshots?

How would suburbs do on loose-ish tracks? http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ucts_id/141348

Is there any parts of the B4 that should be upgraded right away, or just see what breaks etc? I saw a couple people running aluminum front caster blocks at pegasus... Is this common?
The only part that needs to be upgraded is the rear hubs. If you put b44 rear hubs on it, the outer bearings will last a lot longer because of their size! Also make sure you pick up a set of GT2 crush tubes as they are different than the stockers. You might also want to check out getting a 4* rear squat block. Chedda Bob, a few pages back makes them, and they are the BEST!!
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Old 07-01-2009, 01:39 PM
  #8472  
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Originally Posted by B44Zane
I haven't got one yet, but I will be getting the factory team. It is worth the extra money right?
Yes its worth the extra cash. No hop ups needed. Just a set of 30deg caster blocks and green rear springs.

DK
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Old 07-01-2009, 01:43 PM
  #8473  
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Originally Posted by B44Zane
So you guys are saying for clay/hard packed tracks run edge type tires, and for looser, dusty tracks run something like bow ties, or holeshots?

How would suburbs do on loose-ish tracks? http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ucts_id/141348

Is there any parts of the B4 that should be upgraded right away, or just see what breaks etc? I saw a couple people running aluminum front caster blocks at pegasus... Is this common?
This is in reference to front tires on the t4. A looser/wet dirt surface I prefer a rib front. As the track becomes hard pack, dry with a layer of dust I move to a holeshot all around. This is on a 75/25ish clay sand mix. My understanding is that Suburbs are more for a hard pack blue groove track. I don't have any experience there at all as my local track rarely sees those conditions.

Your b4 should be fine from a durability perspective out of the box. As you break parts, stick with plastic (as opposed to carbon $$) to gain a little more flex and durability.
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Old 07-01-2009, 02:43 PM
  #8474  
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Originally Posted by PartTime
Yes its worth the extra cash. No hop ups needed. Just a set of 30deg caster blocks and green rear springs.

DK
+1
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Old 07-01-2009, 03:46 PM
  #8475  
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Originally Posted by gregm
Your b4 should be fine from a durability perspective out of the box. As you break parts, stick with plastic (as opposed to carbon $$) to gain a little more flex and durability.
I wouldn't suggest switching to plastic on the front a-arms. When I use to have a team kit with plastic arms I would be lucky to make it through a day without breaking atleast one. Finally I tried th FT ones and I never had one break up until I sold the car. Now that I've got a FT B4 I have yet to break an a-arm. So even though I've been told I'm absolutely crazy and that the FT ones are less durable from my experience they are not, stay with the FT front a-arms and you will be happy.
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