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Old 02-02-2006, 02:48 PM
  #961  
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Originally Posted by Nick111
I found that the teflon bearings are very smooth, that is UNTIL you try and clean and oil them, after trying to do so on my front wheel bearings, they were completely shot, no matter how hard i tried to get the grit out of them, it just came back within seconds. I just use the losi bearings in the hubs and rims, but in the tranny i use AE's teflon, but never clean or oil them, they are still as smooth as the day they were new.
For me Avid RC is the best choice. I am currently running Acer Ceramic Bearings but you can change out just about all of your bearings for under $20 at Avid RC. I also use the RPM Bearing Blaster to clean my front bearings after each race and then hit them with Trinity Bearing Oil.
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Old 02-02-2006, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by GASKET98
Do you realize the GT has been around for 10 years... with updates. But still, AE put one awesome platform together that held up for 10 years! I still remember the days of the GT with the tub chassis with white nylon parts and who could forget the old white shock towers. It has still been dominating, I wonder if they feel the pressure to make a new GT because people realize its 10 years old...
Hehe, I've still got all the parts to put my tub back together. Most of the white parts too, although the plastic stuff was dyed black. I just threw my old 3 piece rims and origianl tires away today.
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Old 02-06-2006, 07:28 PM
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i have a t4 for sale, rtr but no radio, 17t motor and runner speedcontrol, $120
Attached Thumbnails RC10B4/T4 Forum-bofft4.jpg   RC10B4/T4 Forum-bt42.jpg   RC10B4/T4 Forum-bt4.jpg  
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Old 02-06-2006, 07:51 PM
  #964  
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Holy! Now those are worn out tires! LOL!
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Old 02-06-2006, 11:50 PM
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After a three year hiatus from R/C, I dropped by my LHS on Saturday and picked up a FT B4. So far I'm extremely pleased with the kit and am stoked to get it on the track. I bought a 3PM today, so I'm one step closer.
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Old 02-07-2006, 08:02 AM
  #966  
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T4 is all ready to go.... now I get no radio response..... just glitched once. Someone in another thread mentioned my crystals might be bad, any more ideas?
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Old 02-07-2006, 10:40 AM
  #967  
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Originally Posted by Sunshine86
After a three year hiatus from R/C, I dropped by my LHS on Saturday and picked up a FT B4. So far I'm extremely pleased with the kit and am stoked to get it on the track. I bought a 3PM today, so I'm one step closer.
One thing I would suggest is pick up a plastic chassis for the B4. The factory kit includes a graphic chassis which is lighter but doesn't flex which makes it not only hard to drive but can also short out your batteries. All the pros use the plastic chassis as the graphic is too inconsistent over any type of rough terrain.
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Old 02-19-2006, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by briansid
I bought a Bluebird servo for my T4. It cost only $22. I got the BMS-621MG highspeed servo. 100oz torque at 6v w/ .10 response time. I've had it for less than a year, but it's been through alot of abuse racing. It holds up pretty well. You can get it here. www.slickzero.com. Best thing about SlockZero is they only charge .95 for domestic shipping.

If you buy it, use the Futaba adapter in your T4 kit for the servo. It goes on pretty tight, but it fits and works well.
i just ordered a 621MG online....
gonna return a 631MG I bought locally
I know it will be better than my S148 I have...
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Old 02-19-2006, 12:13 PM
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Im still up in the air about the graphite plastic debate. Plastic has more flex so it will provide better stability and better grip on a loose track. But I race in the Midwest where alot of the tracks are smooth and high bite clay. What i do is take a graphite chassis with me everywhere and i will swap them periodically throughout testing to see what works best. Has anybody else tried putting a 0.030 piece of lexan under the batteries?
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Old 02-19-2006, 01:01 PM
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I might try the lexan idea.

I got my steering servo wired up. I went to test out the steering and found that it steered opposite to what I wanted it to. I turned on the servo reversing and its fine now but I'm guessing thats not normal. What can I do to remedy this?
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Old 02-19-2006, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Butters37
Im still up in the air about the graphite plastic debate. Plastic has more flex so it will provide better stability and better grip on a loose track. But I race in the Midwest where alot of the tracks are smooth and high bite clay. What i do is take a graphite chassis with me everywhere and i will swap them periodically throughout testing to see what works best. Has anybody else tried putting a 0.030 piece of lexan under the batteries?
I have found the graphite to be too unpredictable over any kind of bumps. To date, I have yet to see graphite selected on any set up sheet of a major race winning T4 or B4. That being said I respect your willingness to experiment I am simply too lazy to change out a chassis.
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Old 02-19-2006, 03:02 PM
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I like it on slick tracks better. It may not be as planted but its consistant and it makes you work on the suspension. Because the suspension should do the work not the flex of the chassis
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Old 02-19-2006, 03:06 PM
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I was wondering if anybody knew of a good place to get anodizing done. I would like to get my shiny cvd's anodized blue. Any help would be nice.
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Old 02-20-2006, 12:40 PM
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In the onroad forum there are a few threads about custom anodizing, try doing a search there. You should be able to find a place.
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Old 02-20-2006, 12:45 PM
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Butters37, unfortunately anodizing can only be done on aluminum and in some cases, ti). Your shiny MIP bones are steel. If you can get aluminum CVD bones then they could be done but you will find that anodizing is very expensive unless it's done in batches to bring the cost per item down.
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