55LikesRC10B4/T4 Forum
06-21-2009, 11:29 AM
#8311
Tech Elite
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well i appreciate the bit of info but again as i posted above i liked it better with it in
06-21-2009, 11:44 AM
#8312
less square or rotation & more side bite = less weight on rear
more forward bite and more rotation = more weight on rear
Just trying to help...
Not saying ones better than the other , just sharing with you what I`v learned...
06-21-2009, 02:40 PM
#8313
i posted it a few pages back but here it is again.... the setup works great if you follow it to the T! just ask good ole Doug where it finished a few weeks ago
Front:
shocks: #2 piston, blue springs, 5 limiters, 35wt oil, middle hole on the tower, inside on the arm.
camber links: outside w/ 1 washer on the tower, inside on the hub. 2 bumpsteer washers and the spindles in the middle
Rear:
shocks: #1 piston, green springs, 2 limiters, 27.5wt oil, inside hole on the tower, inside on arm.
links: inside on u-brace w/ 1 washer, middle hole on hub, hubs middle, 2* anti squat
notes: b44 rear hubs, 4 degrees of total toe in rear via my steel 4* squat block, 1/4 oz in each rear pocket of chassis, lipo weighs 8oz... no extra weight in vehicle, anywhere! truck is all graphite w/ plastic chassis.
Front:
shocks: #2 piston, blue springs, 5 limiters, 35wt oil, middle hole on the tower, inside on the arm.
camber links: outside w/ 1 washer on the tower, inside on the hub. 2 bumpsteer washers and the spindles in the middle
Rear:
shocks: #1 piston, green springs, 2 limiters, 27.5wt oil, inside hole on the tower, inside on arm.
links: inside on u-brace w/ 1 washer, middle hole on hub, hubs middle, 2* anti squat
notes: b44 rear hubs, 4 degrees of total toe in rear via my steel 4* squat block, 1/4 oz in each rear pocket of chassis, lipo weighs 8oz... no extra weight in vehicle, anywhere! truck is all graphite w/ plastic chassis.
Just wait till Stateline! How come no nats for you? My setup is pretty similar...he does know what he is talking about!!
06-21-2009, 05:06 PM
#8314
i posted it a few pages back but here it is again.... the setup works great if you follow it to the T! just ask good ole Doug where it finished a few weeks ago
Front:
shocks: #2 piston, blue springs, 5 limiters, 35wt oil, middle hole on the tower, inside on the arm.
camber links: outside w/ 1 washer on the tower, inside on the hub. 2 bumpsteer washers and the spindles in the middle
Rear:
shocks: #1 piston, green springs, 2 limiters, 27.5wt oil, inside hole on the tower, inside on arm.
links: inside on u-brace w/ 1 washer, middle hole on hub, hubs middle, 2* anti squat
notes: b44 rear hubs, 4 degrees of total toe in rear via my steel 4* squat block, 1/4 oz in each rear pocket of chassis, lipo weighs 8oz... no extra weight in vehicle, anywhere! truck is all graphite w/ plastic chassis.
Front:
shocks: #2 piston, blue springs, 5 limiters, 35wt oil, middle hole on the tower, inside on the arm.
camber links: outside w/ 1 washer on the tower, inside on the hub. 2 bumpsteer washers and the spindles in the middle
Rear:
shocks: #1 piston, green springs, 2 limiters, 27.5wt oil, inside hole on the tower, inside on arm.
links: inside on u-brace w/ 1 washer, middle hole on hub, hubs middle, 2* anti squat
notes: b44 rear hubs, 4 degrees of total toe in rear via my steel 4* squat block, 1/4 oz in each rear pocket of chassis, lipo weighs 8oz... no extra weight in vehicle, anywhere! truck is all graphite w/ plastic chassis.
06-22-2009, 02:16 AM
#8315
Tech Initiate
Still not quiet happy with the B4, im losing time in the tight corners, even if i accelerate gently i get understeer. would adjusting the diff help?
06-22-2009, 09:05 AM
#8318
MTS
Usually the diff is never adjusted if it has been assemble correctly...
If your slipper is way tight , you can experience a on-power push...
Check the slipper ,
then if it is`nt to tight. Try a different set of ft tires ...
Usually the diff is never adjusted if it has been assemble correctly...
If your slipper is way tight , you can experience a on-power push...
Check the slipper ,
then if it is`nt to tight. Try a different set of ft tires ...
06-22-2009, 10:48 AM
#8320
Tech Elite
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Conducting aggressive board meetings at my local track
Posts: 3,301
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Diff setting should only be checked after a rebuild once it is seated in. One thing to try is a shorter rear camber link. I had a similar problem and this adjustment worked great! What holes are you using for your rear link now?
06-22-2009, 05:07 PM
#8322
Tech Elite
iTrader: (149)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Where the ego's are so big, people's heads can't fit in the door
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06-22-2009, 05:30 PM
#8323
Below are something you could try.
1) Change to 25 degree caster block, for low speed 180s.
2) Reduce your front shock down travel and increase the rear down travel. This would give you more steering in and out of corners.
06-22-2009, 05:52 PM
#8324
Howdy
Hey guys, just got a b4 buggy, feigao 5070kv brushless motor, mamba max esc and running 5200mah and 4100mah lipos. does anyone have a definitive tuning guide? Im used to seting up 8th scales and i have heard that the 10th scale are very responsive to minor changes
My car is the rs with aluminum shock caps, all new ball cups, ds1015 servo aluminum rear hubs and cvds.
As for tires i have the following
losi x2000
Proline inside job
proline holeshots
evil twin's
and ribs in the front
...back on topic, is there any tuning guide for the t/b4 that states :If car does xxx, adjusting xxx should help resolve the problem?
I lost train of thought at around page 200...
Thanks
-Ben
My car is the rs with aluminum shock caps, all new ball cups, ds1015 servo aluminum rear hubs and cvds.
As for tires i have the following
losi x2000
Proline inside job
proline holeshots
evil twin's
and ribs in the front
...back on topic, is there any tuning guide for the t/b4 that states :If car does xxx, adjusting xxx should help resolve the problem?
I lost train of thought at around page 200...
Thanks
-Ben
06-22-2009, 05:57 PM
#8325
just kinda curious to see yours compared to mine, lol
i just got mine running, owned it almost a week...and have a total of 5 min run time due to the stupid plastic wheel nuts (i had no clue they were plastic). spun one off and lost the bearings!
new bearings, new 5/40 lock nuts (love mcmaster) and i just ran a whole pack. it's amazing how well it handles compared to my bl slash and my pede lol