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Old 03-08-2008, 06:59 PM
  #4276  
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i have an associated top shaft for the hydradrive its made by teddys racing products from back in the day but i am pretty sure it will fit all losi slippers and also pretty sure all associated top shafts will work on any model 10t t2 t3 t4 as long as you use the right slipper for the shaft
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Old 03-08-2008, 07:02 PM
  #4277  
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any one know the part # for the front stell axles the ones that screw a screw into. since the alumoun ones break.
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Old 03-08-2008, 07:06 PM
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Well I did research it, and both losi and associated use a 3/16 x 3/8 beaing on their top shafts so the losi spurs should have the same hole size to fit the shaft. Just need to use the appropriate slipper pads. Should work fine.
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Old 03-08-2008, 07:16 PM
  #4279  
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http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFDW9&P=OW I know these are aluminum but, is this what you are looking for? You probably need different steering blocks if they are.
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Old 03-08-2008, 07:20 PM
  #4280  
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Try these, http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/me...e=CARS-ARC10B4
Titanium front shafts, these use stock steering blocks.
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Old 03-08-2008, 09:28 PM
  #4281  
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nope they are just like the ft one's but steel istead of alum
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Old 03-08-2008, 11:05 PM
  #4282  
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Couldn't find the steel ones. Maybe you thought the silver Al ones were steel?

Recommended gearing for a CO27? I'm running 20/87 now on a smaller high bite track.
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Old 03-09-2008, 01:55 PM
  #4283  
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Well today I had my first casualty with the new truck. After two passes on my street the truck skid into the curb and snapped the rear hub in half. This will never happen again as alloy ones are on there way.
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Old 03-09-2008, 03:56 PM
  #4284  
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Originally Posted by KJT4
Well today I had my first casualty with the new truck. After two passes on my street the truck skid into the curb and snapped the rear hub in half. This will never happen again as alloy ones are on there way.
With the alloy ones, yes it is true that you will PROBABLY never snap one again, but keep in mind, that when you replace parts with aluminum parts, the forces in a crash are just the same. So although the aluminum part won't break but the plastic part that the aluminum part is connected to probably will.
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Old 03-09-2008, 04:17 PM
  #4285  
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Point taken thanks
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Old 03-10-2008, 08:08 AM
  #4286  
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I've had the aluminum hubs Racer's Edge makes on my T4 and love 'em. Very nice machining quality and they have their own setscrew to hold the hinge pin in (so you can ditch the little 2-56 button head in the control arm).
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Old 03-10-2008, 11:32 AM
  #4287  
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Originally Posted by i1justin
yeah I am using the LOSI extra rigid ball cups to take out the rest of slop but can someone look at their servo saver and see if the bearing shows a bit above the blue screw or is it flush mounted.
Thank you
Anyone else using these ball cups? Do the AE & Losi studs fit and measure out the same diameter?
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Old 03-10-2008, 07:41 PM
  #4288  
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Here is where I originally saw them used
http://rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=206949
and on a B4 by the same guy, Good looking vehicles
http://rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=208605

and then I double checked if anyone used them here
http://www.rc10t4.com/tips.php


I am giving the extra rigid a shot for the color gray instead and it says for serious racers on some site haha i prob dont fall into that category, more of a hacker. After I break 5 bulkheads maybe I will go back to the regular ones.
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Old 03-10-2008, 07:50 PM
  #4289  
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Mamba Max and Aon 4800 Killer series motor. I also run this in my X-6 conversion and my TTech 10X. This is one killer set up for me in these cars. I also run the Core 5000 lipo or the 5000 and 6000 Max Amps lipos.
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Old 03-11-2008, 04:53 AM
  #4290  
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anyone using the trinity lightweight slipper
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