Jason Pelletier

iTrader: (33)

ft t4 w/sphere comp 07 and novak 7.5l, orion 4800 lipo, z8800s, spektrum reciever.

Michael#81

iTrader: (271)

Here is where I got mine:
http://teamfusionracing.blogspot.com...lipo-lead.html


FT T4, LRP Sphere Comp 07, Novak 13.5 25-78 gearing, Orion 3600 Lipo, Airtronics 358 servo.

I am running Ryan Maifields Nationals 06 Set-up:
http://www.teamassociated.com/racerh..._Nats_2006.pdf

Loverc

hi everyone!

One of my rear CVD got a bit bent so its vibrating at high speeds...might try to bent it back?

Dont know how this happened, is this possible torque did this (run locked slipper) because never really crashed heaviely

How good are the MIP shiny CVDs?? Think I saw them on Cavalieri B4/T4/BJ4?

thanks a bunch!!

jbrow1

iTrader: (28)

Bend it back if ya can. I just bent mine back into shape yesterday. You don't have to crash to bend them, landing big jumps can do it. Locked slipper should have nothing to do with it. The shiny cvd's are good, not any better, but they look better.

turb06le240

iTrader: (14)

I melt the lead and pour it into the small triangle chassis tubs next to the servo... I bought some lead tire weights and they melt easy... And if you do it rite, they can pop rite out and you can make dierent sizes.. I like the weight towards the front, better streering feeling..

d4man

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for all your help folks. I have another question. My friend just bought a MaxAmps Lipo battery and the black and red wires interfere with the battery strap. Can they put those wires off to the side so that I don't have to squish the battery strap on the wires.

jbrow1

iTrader: (28)

I just ran a maxamps battery last weekend.. I cut the front of the battery strap off so it does not interfere with the wires. I also took some material off the top of the strap where it hooks into the rear so it wouldn't pinch the battery so much. Everything works nicely now.

d4man

iTrader: (5)

Hmm, I didn't want to do that, although I have thought about that. I have the Factory Team Battery Strap and I run 1.5 spacers in the front and 1.5 in the rear. I heard MaxAmps will custom wire the battery, I just wanted someone to confirm this. If the wire came out to the left or right of the strap, I would be very very happy.

OTE_TheMissile

iTrader: (2)

I don't think the Factory Team battery straps are going to be a rare collectible commodity anytime in the near future, just cut the thing off and be done with it. Takes you 2 minutes with a Dremel.

BSS07

iTrader: (16)

the shiny ones snap

darbngreen

iTrader: (12)

I have had this same problem of weak cvd's. Has anyone put gt2 rear hubs or dogbones in the t4?

Jason Pelletier

iTrader: (33)

I did the same thing with my carbon kyosho rb5 battery strap and thats what i needed to do to make it fit. way clean and you wouldnt even know i did that unless you were good like that.

17nut

iTrader: (60)

Anybody using MIP shock shafts? are they as good or better than the nitrate ft ones?

d4man

iTrader: (5)

DONT use the MIP ones!! The Gold Coating wears off quickly!!

d16dcoe45

iTrader: (1)

I have always thought that the shiny CVDs last a lot longer--the holes don't enlarge in the pin area as quickly. There is almost zero wear on my BJ4 Shinys after 4-5 months of use.

I am using gold nitride MIP rear shock shafts because that is what my local LHS had and I needed some as my stock gold rears got bent over time. I had heard the MIP bend easier, but so far so good after 2-3 weekends.

The "old" style ti-nitride Associated shafts are the best. They are very glossy and smooth with a hard coating--also they are a lighter shade of gold. The "new" style which I have on my black box B4 FT--aren't as good. They are a mch darker gold color and they are matte, not smooth--so they might add a bit of stiction to the shock action.

The "unobtanium" shafts--the gray ones are actually titanium carbonitride coated, which is a more durable coating than titanium nitride (gold). At least it is for drill bits and machine parts.