55LikesRC10B4/T4 Forum
12-20-2007, 11:02 AM
#3661
That is true, the lipo's are consistent, if you felt any kind of power drop on a lipo, that means time to pull over and charge. I can tell before my cutoff kicks in. I can no longer clear the quad or the double double quad rhythm section at my track plus the car loses top on the straight that enters our sweeper. The lipos are more consistent. If you are looking for an edge on the track, the only real edge they provide is the fact that when you practice you have to stop less to cycle packs. The longer you stay up in the stand and refine your techniques the better you will get.
dumping a lipo can be dangerous and will/may damage the lipo. novak has a cutoff that can be added.
12-20-2007, 01:02 PM
#3662
6v cutoff is too low... the LRP is supposed to cut at 6.25 but I've never ran my batteries to cutoff, I think it's better for them. Everywhere I've been hearing 6.25. My lipos show when I start charging after a ten minute fan cooling that they have around 7.1-7.3ish so I think I'm good.
12-20-2007, 01:04 PM
#3663
I have the new "hardware 07 edition"lrp speedo and had it programmed for cutoff but never used it... I pull my car when It's not @ 100% output. I can tell because it doesn't clear the quads or pull the straight like it should. Should I pull it before that happens too? I got an uptimer on my controller I can use to time them precisely.
12-20-2007, 02:07 PM
#3664
Hi guys, Just building a new factory team B4, the kit setup shows #1 pistons in all 4 shocks standard, but AE have given me 2x #1 pistons and 2x #2 pistons, has there been an update to the kit setup that they have not mentioned in the manual?
What setup piston wise are most of you guys running?
What setup piston wise are most of you guys running?
12-20-2007, 02:20 PM
#3665
I have the new "hardware 07 edition"lrp speedo and had it programmed for cutoff but never used it... I pull my car when It's not @ 100% output. I can tell because it doesn't clear the quads or pull the straight like it should. Should I pull it before that happens too? I got an uptimer on my controller I can use to time them precisely.
12-20-2007, 02:22 PM
#3666
6.0 6.25 doesn't matter, your described your battery dumping and that is past the cutoff. the 7 volt reading is a false reading, just like when you dead short a nimh battery take of off the tray, it will show voltage, i'm not saying DID damage just that damage can happen. i never have to cool my batteries after a run but i don't run then still they won't go. and a little secret, lipos like a little heat and accept a "better" charge when warm. hope that helps.
i only practice for 6-7 minutes at a time as that is how long a race is. in off road i don't think it matters that much as the tires don't really change with run time (only wearout) on my helicopters i use the timer on the transmitter, we start off at 5 minutes, then record the amount of mah that goes back in, then up it a little each time until we get to where were comfortable with it, for me, at $300.00 bucks a battery, 5 minutes is plenty.
(ps, transponder was sold)
i only practice for 6-7 minutes at a time as that is how long a race is. in off road i don't think it matters that much as the tires don't really change with run time (only wearout) on my helicopters i use the timer on the transmitter, we start off at 5 minutes, then record the amount of mah that goes back in, then up it a little each time until we get to where were comfortable with it, for me, at $300.00 bucks a battery, 5 minutes is plenty.
(ps, transponder was sold)
12-20-2007, 02:23 PM
#3667
thats sounds like how it is suppose to happen, just shut down. i'm assuming you didn't get that dumping feeling?
12-20-2007, 02:39 PM
#3669
thx wild cherry!
BTW, my slipper is very tight right now for testing the brushless setup so I know its not coming from there
I cant believe I didnt see that step in the manual...did read it thru but I thought it had something to do with the programming
do you think this could be why my brushless system isnt running strong?? Novak says in the manual the 5.5 is like a 9-10T brushed and I'm WAY slower than a sluggish 10T mod, like I said especially on the torque side and I'm runnig a very safety gearing
Shame on me thought the GTB was like the A.I esc's and you didnt have to calibrate them anymore...
hopefully it will help, although on the first few runs the throttle response fell fine...perhaps the GTB didnt memorize what was the full throttle throw, hence poor acceleration
thx!!!
PS: How bigger a pinion can you go compared to the manual, especially whent its cold? what is the biggest pinion or FDR you've seen on a T4 or B44 with 5.5r brushless??
Running on a 1/8th scale track, want to keep up with the nitros just for the fun!
BTW, my slipper is very tight right now for testing the brushless setup so I know its not coming from there
I cant believe I didnt see that step in the manual...did read it thru but I thought it had something to do with the programming
do you think this could be why my brushless system isnt running strong?? Novak says in the manual the 5.5 is like a 9-10T brushed and I'm WAY slower than a sluggish 10T mod, like I said especially on the torque side and I'm runnig a very safety gearing
Shame on me thought the GTB was like the A.I esc's and you didnt have to calibrate them anymore...
hopefully it will help, although on the first few runs the throttle response fell fine...perhaps the GTB didnt memorize what was the full throttle throw, hence poor acceleration
thx!!!
PS: How bigger a pinion can you go compared to the manual, especially whent its cold? what is the biggest pinion or FDR you've seen on a T4 or B44 with 5.5r brushless??
Running on a 1/8th scale track, want to keep up with the nitros just for the fun!
I ran 6.5 in my b4 w/ a 18/84 or a 20/84 not sure but it was smoken down the 160 straight. I was about 1-2 seconds off the average 1/8 buggies times at this particular track.
12-20-2007, 02:48 PM
#3670
Tech Apprentice
Cheers speedsterblade!!
I hope power/torque and speed will show up this time now the radio is calibrated and the battery has 2 cycles on it, so should give its peak performance now
Do you think a 5.5 is close to 9T or 10T brushed?
What about the 6.5 how is is rated??
thx guys, new to brushless
I hope power/torque and speed will show up this time now the radio is calibrated and the battery has 2 cycles on it, so should give its peak performance now
Do you think a 5.5 is close to 9T or 10T brushed?
What about the 6.5 how is is rated??
thx guys, new to brushless
12-20-2007, 03:43 PM
#3673
loverc, if it turns out it wasn't the programming, it may be the battery connections. It is possible to get a cold solder joint that will allow operation of the car, but not flow much amperage(aka, allow much torque).
Is this possible? Unless your VERY good at soldering, it is something to check. The easiest way if you don't have a volt/amperage meter is to twist on the battery bars and see if they pull off the cells, usually on the negative ends. They should never pull off if soldered on with a nice wet connection.
Hope you get it sorted out.
...Jim
W.E.D.
Is this possible? Unless your VERY good at soldering, it is something to check. The easiest way if you don't have a volt/amperage meter is to twist on the battery bars and see if they pull off the cells, usually on the negative ends. They should never pull off if soldered on with a nice wet connection.
Hope you get it sorted out.
...Jim
W.E.D.
12-20-2007, 04:12 PM
#3674
Tech Apprentice
Thanks Jim!
My soldering is fine, it was done by team guy who owns a lhs, the soldering is perfect not like when I do mine...
I really think its the batteries being new and never cycled and also the radio calibrating perhaps...
I have to wait two days before I cant see how the batteries fell like on their third (or 4th??) cycle...fingers crossed
BTW, love your paint jobs, might ask you a body for the T4 in a while, do you ship internationally (France)? thx!
My soldering is fine, it was done by team guy who owns a lhs, the soldering is perfect not like when I do mine...
I really think its the batteries being new and never cycled and also the radio calibrating perhaps...
I have to wait two days before I cant see how the batteries fell like on their third (or 4th??) cycle...fingers crossed
BTW, love your paint jobs, might ask you a body for the T4 in a while, do you ship internationally (France)? thx!
Last edited by Loverc; 12-20-2007 at 04:26 PM.
