RC10B4/T4 Forum
#3646
Tech Addict
iTrader: (3)
Green slime is a specialized lube that forms a non leaking seal. It holds all the oil in the shock while lubing the shock shaft that thrusts in and out of the shock body. It is a must have, use a somewhat generous amount on your o-rings, especially when inserting/removing the shaft. The shaft's threads are sharp and have been known to tear o-rings. Great stuff, you should always have a tube in your t-box.
Do you guys build shocks and fill the caps with oil like the book says? Just wondering, I think that would put too much pressure and blow out the shocks, it seemed like when I tried that the shock had so much pressure I couldn't get it to hit TDC. I build and fill exactly to the top and drag my finger across to remove a uniform amount of oil from each shock. I never fill the caps. I got all the other parts nailed in the build tho... 35w up front (just switched last night), for some reason I was running 40w without thinking. 25w in the rear. I am also running the forward rear a arm mod but only .030 forward not .060 like the other guys. Along with a couple other racers secrets.
There is a B4 tuning bible that you can download from AE that explains all tuning changes ($5)... IE, what it does when you change mount positions on shocktowers, a arms, oil weight changes, spring rate changes. This is the only time I'll mention it because I don't wanna help you guys get too fast lol. Just fast enough to keep you interested. It took me six months to figure out how to properly build a racing rig. If I didn't have pro tips, probably alot longer.
Do you guys build shocks and fill the caps with oil like the book says? Just wondering, I think that would put too much pressure and blow out the shocks, it seemed like when I tried that the shock had so much pressure I couldn't get it to hit TDC. I build and fill exactly to the top and drag my finger across to remove a uniform amount of oil from each shock. I never fill the caps. I got all the other parts nailed in the build tho... 35w up front (just switched last night), for some reason I was running 40w without thinking. 25w in the rear. I am also running the forward rear a arm mod but only .030 forward not .060 like the other guys. Along with a couple other racers secrets.
There is a B4 tuning bible that you can download from AE that explains all tuning changes ($5)... IE, what it does when you change mount positions on shocktowers, a arms, oil weight changes, spring rate changes. This is the only time I'll mention it because I don't wanna help you guys get too fast lol. Just fast enough to keep you interested. It took me six months to figure out how to properly build a racing rig. If I didn't have pro tips, probably alot longer.
#3648
Tech Apprentice
HI guys!!
Waiting for my FT T4 for Christmas with a hitec CRX radio (will be specktrum re-routed soon)!!
Just wondering since when the FTT4 comes with golden Ti shock shafts???
On the AE website pics they just look standard but stated as Golden shafts??
Have the kits been updated, hope I'll get them, looks nice!!
thanks, will
Waiting for my FT T4 for Christmas with a hitec CRX radio (will be specktrum re-routed soon)!!
Just wondering since when the FTT4 comes with golden Ti shock shafts???
On the AE website pics they just look standard but stated as Golden shafts??
Have the kits been updated, hope I'll get them, looks nice!!
thanks, will
#3652
Tech Elite
iTrader: (95)
Every AE kit I've bought in the last 15 years has ALWAYS included a full set of pistons. The new T4 kit I received had ONLY the pistons needed to build the kit setup. I had to buy pistons at the shop the next day so I could put the proper setup on there.
#3653
Tech Master
iTrader: (26)
My T4 was one of the new UPDATED kits...The biggest change I noticed, AE went cheap on me!
Every AE kit I've bought in the last 15 years has ALWAYS included a full set of pistons. The new T4 kit I received had ONLY the pistons needed to build the kit setup. I had to buy pistons at the shop the next day so I could put the proper setup on there.
Every AE kit I've bought in the last 15 years has ALWAYS included a full set of pistons. The new T4 kit I received had ONLY the pistons needed to build the kit setup. I had to buy pistons at the shop the next day so I could put the proper setup on there.
#3654
Heya all have a quick little problem with my T-4 wondering if anyone ever had the same problem and what was the cause. I was racing my T-4 and I kept spinning out. I thought that maybe I was giving it too much throttle and was not getting any traction. When I took off the rear wheels after the heat I discovered that one of the rear wheels was not lined up properly and wound up getting stripped out. Thinking this was the problem I replaced the rear wheels. Well as soon as I put some throttle on sure enough the same thing. So it was not the tires at all since I was running what everyone else was. Checked my diff and it seemed fine. smooth working like should. My best guess is that the problem is still with the diff, maybe too loose? I tried to dial down both steering and throttle expodential did not seem to make much of a difference. The truck seemed to run fine on the straights but had problems going in and out of a sharp turn. Maybe I am being a noob but I don't think it is my driving as the last time I had the truck out at the track it worked fine. Anyone with more experience with the T-4/B-4 have this problem? Thanks Gene
#3656
Tech Apprentice
guys, do you know how many times a new "non-matched" battery pack needs to be cycled in the car before delivering max output??
I got some Orion 4500mh cells (same as the ones in their rocket sport packs) soldered them like any competition pack and when I tried them in the FTB44 (2 cycles at the moment) my novak 5.5r (sintered) seems ok for a few seconds but lacks a LOT of torque, top speed is ok
Right, I dont know if I'm dissapointed in the novak 5.5 system or if I have to cucle the pack more...the gearing is fine 84/18= 11.67 the motor is very cool since I'm not using to body yet and its very cold and windy here
With that gearing I should much more bottom end...are the brushed know to be more Torquey??
The guy at the lhs said they were very good cells for the price as long as they soldered like a pro pack....
Are brushless smoother on low end??
I know I could get the gearing changed for more bottom end but the speed is just about right
everything runs cool, battery come off at 45C (110F), drivetrain smooth and spins free
Hopefully, its down to the batteries and will get better after another 2/3 runs/cycle...
Just a little confused/dissapointed since I was hoping so much out of the Brushless system, especially the 5.5r yes its sintered
Any input would be great, thank you!!!
I got some Orion 4500mh cells (same as the ones in their rocket sport packs) soldered them like any competition pack and when I tried them in the FTB44 (2 cycles at the moment) my novak 5.5r (sintered) seems ok for a few seconds but lacks a LOT of torque, top speed is ok
Right, I dont know if I'm dissapointed in the novak 5.5 system or if I have to cucle the pack more...the gearing is fine 84/18= 11.67 the motor is very cool since I'm not using to body yet and its very cold and windy here
With that gearing I should much more bottom end...are the brushed know to be more Torquey??
The guy at the lhs said they were very good cells for the price as long as they soldered like a pro pack....
Are brushless smoother on low end??
I know I could get the gearing changed for more bottom end but the speed is just about right
everything runs cool, battery come off at 45C (110F), drivetrain smooth and spins free
Hopefully, its down to the batteries and will get better after another 2/3 runs/cycle...
Just a little confused/dissapointed since I was hoping so much out of the Brushless system, especially the 5.5r yes its sintered
Any input would be great, thank you!!!
#3657
Chris,
The car belongs to Neil Craig, European Champ
The included shocks SHOULD be unobtanium. they look kind of gold.
momo
#3658
guys, do you know how many times a new "non-matched" battery pack needs to be cycled in the car before delivering max output??
I got some Orion 4500mh cells (same as the ones in their rocket sport packs) soldered them like any competition pack and when I tried them in the FTB44 (2 cycles at the moment) my novak 5.5r (sintered) seems ok for a few seconds but lacks a LOT of torque, top speed is ok
Right, I dont know if I'm dissapointed in the novak 5.5 system or if I have to cucle the pack more...the gearing is fine 84/18= 11.67 the motor is very cool since I'm not using to body yet and its very cold and windy here
With that gearing I should much more bottom end...are the brushed know to be more Torquey??
The guy at the lhs said they were very good cells for the price as long as they soldered like a pro pack....
Are brushless smoother on low end??
I know I could get the gearing changed for more bottom end but the speed is just about right
everything runs cool, battery come off at 45C (110F), drivetrain smooth and spins free
Hopefully, its down to the batteries and will get better after another 2/3 runs/cycle...
Just a little confused/dissapointed since I was hoping so much out of the Brushless system, especially the 5.5r yes its sintered
Any input would be great, thank you!!!
I got some Orion 4500mh cells (same as the ones in their rocket sport packs) soldered them like any competition pack and when I tried them in the FTB44 (2 cycles at the moment) my novak 5.5r (sintered) seems ok for a few seconds but lacks a LOT of torque, top speed is ok
Right, I dont know if I'm dissapointed in the novak 5.5 system or if I have to cucle the pack more...the gearing is fine 84/18= 11.67 the motor is very cool since I'm not using to body yet and its very cold and windy here
With that gearing I should much more bottom end...are the brushed know to be more Torquey??
The guy at the lhs said they were very good cells for the price as long as they soldered like a pro pack....
Are brushless smoother on low end??
I know I could get the gearing changed for more bottom end but the speed is just about right
everything runs cool, battery come off at 45C (110F), drivetrain smooth and spins free
Hopefully, its down to the batteries and will get better after another 2/3 runs/cycle...
Just a little confused/dissapointed since I was hoping so much out of the Brushless system, especially the 5.5r yes its sintered
Any input would be great, thank you!!!
Recheck & programed the Radio & ESC correctly...
#3659
Tech Apprentice
thx wild cherry!
BTW, my slipper is very tight right now for testing the brushless setup so I know its not coming from there
I cant believe I didnt see that step in the manual...did read it thru but I thought it had something to do with the programming
do you think this could be why my brushless system isnt running strong?? Novak says in the manual the 5.5 is like a 9-10T brushed and I'm WAY slower than a sluggish 10T mod, like I said especially on the torque side and I'm runnig a very safety gearing
Shame on me thought the GTB was like the A.I esc's and you didnt have to calibrate them anymore...
hopefully it will help, although on the first few runs the throttle response fell fine...perhaps the GTB didnt memorize what was the full throttle throw, hence poor acceleration
thx!!!
PS: How bigger a pinion can you go compared to the manual, especially whent its cold? what is the biggest pinion or FDR you've seen on a T4 or B44 with 5.5r brushless??
Running on a 1/8th scale track, want to keep up with the nitros just for the fun!
BTW, my slipper is very tight right now for testing the brushless setup so I know its not coming from there
I cant believe I didnt see that step in the manual...did read it thru but I thought it had something to do with the programming
do you think this could be why my brushless system isnt running strong?? Novak says in the manual the 5.5 is like a 9-10T brushed and I'm WAY slower than a sluggish 10T mod, like I said especially on the torque side and I'm runnig a very safety gearing
Shame on me thought the GTB was like the A.I esc's and you didnt have to calibrate them anymore...
hopefully it will help, although on the first few runs the throttle response fell fine...perhaps the GTB didnt memorize what was the full throttle throw, hence poor acceleration
thx!!!
PS: How bigger a pinion can you go compared to the manual, especially whent its cold? what is the biggest pinion or FDR you've seen on a T4 or B44 with 5.5r brushless??
Running on a 1/8th scale track, want to keep up with the nitros just for the fun!
Last edited by Loverc; 12-20-2007 at 10:28 AM.
#3660
as said before, that is a 6S 5000 lipo, it is used to power a T-REX 600 helicopter. picture of heli with battery install attached, along with a picture of its motor sitting next to a lrp motor. this battery is can be considered by some in the heli world as a "beginner" battery as you can get them in 8S and 10S and bigger. for a little demo of rc heli's just to to YOUTUBE.COM and search, RC Helicopter 3D flying. that style of flying is optional.