air8

iTrader: (7)

Well, it's time to tear my truck completely down. Haven't done a tear down on it yet. I've abused it on the track. We recently started running mod and it really took it's toll. My outdrives are slotted and the CVD bone ends are over half way cut through. Plus the diff was really bad through the night. Also I had two shocks that need rebuilt. So it's time to go through it a redo everything. The lower shock ends need replaced too. They are sloppy. So new outdrives, diff, shock seals, pistons, shafts, rod ends, bearings, CVDs, hinge pins, ballcups, and any bent turnbuckles. I'm gonna price all this and see how it compares to a new truck. Mine is seriously hammered. Of course, I bought it used back in February 07' so it didn't have a fair start from the beginning. It's been awesome though.

gene465

iTrader: (52)

Yup probably cheaper to buy a new kit! lol

Jake S

iTrader: (67)

then keep all the decent/good parts for spares, or just sell stuff on ebay (i did the latter of the two)

air8

iTrader: (7)

OK. i was going through the manual making the parts list and I noticed in the diff section they say to apply the steath lube to the diff out drives but not both sides of the diff ring. I have always applied the lube to both sides of the diff rings. Is this wrong/bad? I don't really see a problem other than maybe the diff rings won't apply the energy correctly. Cause when one ring spins, it spins the carbide balls which in turn spin the other diff ring the opposite direction. Since the carbide balls get the lube applied, will the extra film of lube on both sides of the diff ring be too much lube? IDK. Let me know what you people think.

Thanx

air8

iTrader: (7)

Ok. $65 is not bad for the amount of race time this truck has had. I would like to upgrade to the FT parts but DAMN!!!!, that would double the price. OUCH! Seriously--$118 for my list plus the FT upgrades. I was surprised to find the alum. turnbuckles are triple the price of the steel ones. But I race every weekend Thurs-Sat/sometimes Sun. too. For the Team kit parts to hold up like they have is awesome to me. I don't see the need to upgrade to the FT stuff. But that's my own opinion. I have really abused this truck too. I'm really pleased to see that I don't need a new truck. LOL.

speedsterblade

you running cvds or dogbones? ...I've had a cvd pin come sorta out and had a similar sympton as you... check cvd pins/axles out if you are running cvds..

oh, also if you've taken out any of the limiters in the rear shocks the dogbone axle maybe rubbing the a-arm....check the clearance

gene465

iTrader: (52)

Thanks Speedster! I am running the CVDs and I do have limiters on the rear shocks but after checking the cvd's and shocks they are fine no rubbing all pins are in. After tightening the diff according to the dif instructions as they were way loose, I will check it again then take a look at the slipper if tightening the diff did not help any.

speedsterblade

too much camber can cause the axles to rub the arms also...forgot to mention that part. You could have this spin problem if your camber if not even on bothsides... One tire is getting more traction...but you may not notice this until you get into some loose stuff. Check your camber links for bends or bent ball cups. I think I'm running 1-1.5 degress of camber now...not sure I kinda retired the truck and just running buggy on the dirt and TC on the rug. ..my TC4 needed some hobby love, so I raped the brushless out of the truck.


I've had your problem w/ my truck but my problem was my line/the track. the turn coming onto our big straight has some loose dirt and sometimes on the gas one tire would spin up and throw/spin me straight into the wall... my fix was getting my camber evend and just a better line or better throttle control when I did run wide....

Have you taken the pinion off and ensured that everything is free rolling while moving the rear arms (from full cpmpressed to normal ride height to fully extended)? nothing should be draggin/rubbin.

danimal1965

Hey, i had that problem a few different times, Once was an outdrive bearing and the other time it was the inside rear hub bearing. The hub one would only bind at slight angled pressure from the cvd's so it made me think my diff was to tight. Dan

brad996

iTrader: (11)

you may want to check and see if you have the diff in the right way the screw should be on the spur gear side if you have you have it in on tje wrong side it can come loose

and have you changed anything else like speed control or your radio

air8

iTrader: (7)

Here's something I'm gonna try. I'm going to run the diff backwards. How soon will it back out? Minutes or a weekend? I'm waiting for new outdrives and CVDs and for the weekend I'd like to swap stuff to the other side and use the side of the bones and outdrives that aren't punished. Our track doesn't require braking so the bad side of the CVDs won't be used too much when run backwards. IDK. Just a thought.

adam lancia

iTrader: (2)

You know, I've always put the diff in with the screw facing away from the spur gear side and I've never had it back off. This is going back to when the RC10T was introduced...I think you'll be fine running it 'backwards'.

W.E.D.Jim

iTrader: (17)

air8, that is a myth that the orientation of the diff screw will prevent the diff from loosening or make it loosen.
I'll explain why, rather then just tell you it won't happen based on position.

The screw threads are right handed, that is, if it were true, lets say the nut is on the left side. If it will be loosened by the left tire spinning faster then the right.....
Turn the diff around and the bolt head is on the left, nut on the right, but the thread orientation is still right handed...so the left tire spinning faster then the right will loosen the bolt, rather then the nut.

Also, if this were true, the right tire spinning faster then the left would tighten the assembly, no matter how it is facing, since the right handed threads would be tightened, either by the nut, or bolt head.

Bolt head-\\\\\\\\\\\\-Nut

Nut-\\\\\\\\\\\\-bolt head

Left loosens and right tightens, no matter which is on either side.


If the bolt/diff adjustment changes, parts are wearing, the lock nut is worn and not locking, or the thrust assembly(which keeps this from happening in the first place) is in bad shape.



Hope this clears that up.

...Jim
W.E.D.

Jake S

iTrader: (67)

wow....very well explained, the only reason i put the diff in the same way as the manual as its easy to pop that ballcup off to be able to get the wrench i use to adjust the diff.

also i went to the local hardware shop, and got some metal plates, each one is about 1oz, i put 4 under the battery, leaving me nearly an oz (for ib4200 weight) to put where i want...but since im running brushless (weights 1.1 oz more then brushed from what i have read on these forums) i think i should still be fine, i had too much rear traction when i switched from brushed to brushless so i believe it.

see how it runs next time i race, if i don't like it ill just add an oz of weight on the battery strap. to either add more steering or rear traction

air8

iTrader: (7)

Alright guys. Thanx Jim for the description. Good info to know.