7/10/3 in the diffs, 45frt, 30rear shock oil with the piston setup posted in the thread here a handful of pages back. Changed sway bars per Chicky, and a rear roll center adjustment per someone at the track. I have also been playing with the upper shock mount positions and springs to feel the differences.

It's the Blitz one from Seroent America BLI60304B. Felt good in the air and has held up very well. Looks cool too!

Nice! wish they would tell me we have these things

LOL. It is a lot more durable then the Finnisher wing I was using, and feels more controllable to me.

I can always bring it to you at AMS to make up for PNB.

Some of the team guys, and I feel the same way, feel that the Avenger body makes the car too twitchy and makes the rear too loose. The stock body feels better overall. I have tried both back to back, and I'll stay with the stock body for now. I may try adding some lexan pieces to the back of the Avenger body to give it more 'kick up' like the stock body and try to get some more rear downforce out of the Avenger body.

There is a thread on the Serpent Truggy Conversion, assuming you are asking about the electric truggy, and not the nitro kit. http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...onversion.html

As someone said, there isn't a 2.0 e truggy kit yet, doubt there will be one. No reason to swap the rear arms around and put the shocks on the back of the rear shock tower. The last thing this truggy needs is MORE rear traction. Chicky has already tried this and changed back to the stock configuration.

Hi all, bought the rtr 811e with money from insurance (my last one was written off.....long story), but the rediculous excess prevented me from getting a full kit.

So, I got the rtr, will probably put a new Savox servo in (cos rtr servos just never cut it) and one of my controllers/receivers I have lying around, but was just curious, is it undergeared on the stock engine (which I think is a hobbywing from what I've seen, am I right or is it something else)?

I figure ill just replace the parts to the kit ones as the break, and I have no doubt I'll put a new ESC/motor into it, but that has to wait till I get some more money....

So yeah, few questions, and a "hi," cos I have no doubt there will be more questions to come =)

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So cool,what ar you going to power system?

Hey Guys,

Here is a new setup I have been working on for a little while for outdoors. Its pretty sick, you need to try it. Let me know how you like it.

Ran this at Shay's Saturday and it's definitely a sick setup! Ran V2 red/red springs, 600F/450R PT oils.

Honestly, I think my buggy is too light! Its not super light, but it is under 8 pounds. I know Joe B's buggy has to be more like 8.75 lbs, with all stock steel hardware/turnbuckles, steel spur, and 7200 batteries. New buggy is not going to have any lightweight stuff on it, and I have new nanotech a-spec 6200 batts coming.

how can you make this buggy ligther as my is heavery

To be honest it works really well heavy, mine is now 3600gr plus and i know Joe Bornhorst who competes at a national level is 3700+.

You can get the LW radio tray, light tekin motor, all ti and alu hardware, shorties, you can get it right around 3300-3400 if you want.

What have people been doing to get more steering throw? Do the steering blocks hold up if you trim some webbing off them? Or do you upgrade to aluminum c hubs or steering blocks?

Are you actually hitting full lock on the blocks and needing more? Mine turns very tightly currently, and rotates nicely in race conditions, enough so that my dual rate is usually turned down. Most who drive my car says it turns too much, and turn the DR down even further. I prefer a very reactive and twitchy steering though.

I drilled holes on the battery tray...not much savings but its something