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Old 01-15-2012, 05:19 PM
  #14971  
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The Pin mod is fantastic. And I would still be using it if I didn't have the Center Diff.

From indoor to outdoor all I had to do was remove the pin and the Truck became a little 2wd handling 4x4 for indoor, slide in the pin, and it became a monster power 4x4 rolling over the Losi's on the 8th scale tracks around here. I even had two front Diffs, one 30k, one 10k for the swap and that's all I needed to do Track to track. (for weekend warrior-ing)

It holds a place in my wee little heart, for making me fall in love with the Sc104x4. Up until then it was a "strained" relationship that I wasn't going to give up on.
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Old 01-15-2012, 05:30 PM
  #14972  
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We had a whole bunch using pins , 3rd diff's , special slipper pads, ect ....\


They all tried their best, but at the end of
yesterdays Pacific N/w ShootOut ?


The slipper still rules @ Trcr......
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Old 01-15-2012, 05:32 PM
  #14973  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
We had a whole bunch using pins , 3rd diff's , special slipper pads, ect ....\


They all tried their best, but at the end of
yesterdays Pacific N/w ShootOut ?


The slipper still rules @ Trcr......
Were did everyone end up in 4w SC?
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Old 01-15-2012, 05:35 PM
  #14974  
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Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash
Any of you guys running the connections like this? I haven't seen anyone. I. hate. everything being bound together like a asfkgjadfklhglksa when i'm trying to break down the Truck.



(I am in no way claiming first on this, I KNOW it's common)
It looks like it would work fine. I doubt you will tell a difference between the bullets and direct from the esc to the motor.
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Old 01-15-2012, 05:36 PM
  #14975  
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Cameron

Left standing after the battle


Timmy 1st Durango
Derek 2nd Losi


Wild 3rd Ae
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Old 01-15-2012, 05:36 PM
  #14976  
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Originally Posted by Chad Smith
It looks like it would work fine. I doubt you will tell a difference between the bullets and direct from the esc to the motor.
12ga with Castle bullets. I hope not.
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Old 01-15-2012, 05:37 PM
  #14977  
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Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash
Any of you guys running the connections like this? I haven't seen anyone. I. hate. everything being bound together like a asfkgjadfklhglksa when i'm trying to break down the Truck.



(I am in no way claiming first on this, I KNOW it's common)
I did that last year with my SC10 2w when I was running stock and mod. 4w my wires are too short for connectors.
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Old 01-15-2012, 05:41 PM
  #14978  
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Coyote, did you fix your motor?
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Old 01-15-2012, 05:46 PM
  #14979  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
Coyote, did you fix your motor?
Nope! Nothing wrong with the brand new Pro 4.

Somewhere along the path of putting in the Pro 4, I... did something? And poofed the MMP.

Bought a new MMP and it fixed it.
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Old 01-15-2012, 05:51 PM
  #14980  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Craig
You really must like the pin uh ?
On low bite, rock hard, outdoor tracks that rut up but won't groove up, yeah, I do. But, as I like to say, there's a time and a place for everything.

But I never ran it the way the Ryan's did at the Reedy race with the basket and over-driving the front. And if I had to run at your track, I'd run it your way to start.
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Old 01-15-2012, 05:52 PM
  #14981  
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Originally Posted by Chad Smith
If you are not running "pinned" or the center diff, then buy 5k, 20k, 30k for the diffs. But if you are running pinned or the center diff buy some 7k and 10k.
Thanks Chad, as I am new to this truck. I'm not sure what the pin mod is. I'll just pick up 5,20 and 30k diff oils.

Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
Get sway bars, then consider getting a chassis brace.
Thanks for the info JEFF, I already got the sway bars. And talked to Coyote about a chassis brace.

All others... What shock oil weights are good to have available?
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Old 01-15-2012, 05:57 PM
  #14982  
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Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash
Any of you guys running the connections like this? I haven't seen anyone. I. hate. everything being bound together like a asfkgjadfklhglksa when i'm trying to break down the Truck.



(I am in no way claiming first on this, I KNOW it's common)
Exactly what I did for my MMP setup. The wires on the MMP just barley reached and didn't allow me easy access to the Rx box, so I broke down and added connectors to the motor.
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Old 01-15-2012, 06:05 PM
  #14983  
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
On low bite, rock hard, outdoor tracks that rut up but won't groove up, yeah, I do. But, as I like to say, there's a time and a place for everything.

But I never ran it the way the Ryan's did at the Reedy race with the basket and over-driving the front. And if I had to run at your track, I'd run it your way to start.
On those conditions ?



Slipper will have it easy ......


none of that set-up I am using is mind BTW

Its the same Factory Team set-up Cody & Ryan R using ...

and ...
It works real good ....IMO
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Old 01-15-2012, 06:13 PM
  #14984  
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Originally Posted by Chad Smith
If you are not running "pinned" or the center diff, then buy 5k, 20k, 30k for the diffs. But if you are running pinned or the center diff buy some 7k and 10k.

I'm not running pinned or center diff (yet) and I run 10k front and 5k rear.

1/8 scale track, bumpy, med-low traction.
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Old 01-15-2012, 06:23 PM
  #14985  
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Originally Posted by tom2tone
Thanks Chad, as I am new to this truck. I'm not sure what the pin mod is. I'll just pick up 5,20 and 30k diff oils.



Thanks for the info JEFF, I already got the sway bars. And talked to Coyote about a chassis brace.

All others... What shock oil weights are good to have available?
If you want to have a collection of shock oil to dial in your suspension I would pick up, 35,30,27.5,25,20 weight.
But if you dont want to buy all those oils pick up some 30 weight 25 weight. I found 25 weight to be to soft on my track so that is why I said get some 27.5 weight oil its just a little heaveir without going to heavy.
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