yours will have 5!!

BTW its gettin taken apart tonight and i plan on assembling it sat/sunday during the playoffs.

Duplicate

Great, now I have to worry about my tires grabbing too much. I had the same question, as far as the bigger swaybars allow less suspension travel and therefore roll more. Like you said, not questioning the people who say to do it, just questioning the science, I suppose.

The suspension is still doing what its supposed to but the sway bar helps the suspension/arms stay flat...if that makes since...ha when it rolls say to the right the left side of the sway bar keeps from going or making more resistence for it to roll over..

Unless Im wrong as well...lol

5?! Dang guess thing will be never flip and be on rails. :tire:;)

Sway bars are actually called anti-roll bar. It is excessive body roll that causes traction rolling. The thicker the sway bar, the less body roll, consiquently, you generaly get less traction depending on track conditions.

read this, click suspension and then go to page 7, it talks about sways.
Pretty informative stuff about R/C suspension. Thanks to 20smoke.
http://users.telenet.be/elvo/

its here
 

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu273/ancona/034.jpg:D:D:D:D:D

Fixed that for you. From here:

Everyone who has raced on carpet has had this happen when the grip starts to come up. The fix is usually more (larger) front bar, which is the easiest change to make and not totally upset the setup.

In that case, I probably should have said what kind of track I race on. High grip clay, small track, and they typically change layouts every 6-7 weeks. Current fast laps in practice with no traffic are low 10s, average during a race is 11.5-13ish. Either way, I've learned that I get absolutely zero traction on my lid. :sneaky:

I dont feel I needed to be corrected. The body roll causes the traction.
From the hudy setup guide.
Anti-roll bars are used to adjust the car’s
side (lateral) traction. Anti-roll bars resist
chassis roll and by doing so transfer wheel
load from the inside wheel to the outside
wheel. The stiffer the anti-roll bar, the more
load is transferred from the inside wheel to
the outside wheel. However, as the outside
wheel is not able to convert all of the extra
wheel load into extra grip, the sum of the
grip of both wheels is actually reduced.
This changes the balance of the car to the
other axle.

Sorry, no. Body roll does not cause traction.

Body roll is caused by weight transfer. Traction increases weight transfer, and is totally independent of body roll. Excessive weight transfer in combination with high grip causes traction roll.

From your cite:

Which is why sway bars aka anti roll bars aka stablizer bars reduce traction roll, they do it by reducing overall grip on a given axle by taking load from the outside tire and moving it to the inside tire. Which is why adding roll stiffness reduces traction roll, you are reducing overall grip.

Which, if you think about it, makes sense with what I wrote earlier, and why you'd set the car up to have less mechanical grip when the racing surface grip comes up.

squeal
 

Try looseing the gear mesh. Mine did win tight.:smile:

Ok I'm about to place my order!! Anything else I need besides...

1. Sc10 4x4
2. Tekin pro4 4000kv motor
3. 14,15,16 tooth pinions
4. Front and rear swaybar sets
5. Set of JC hex hazard wheels (already have indoor tires for now)

lots of patience, you'll need lots of that.

also you'll need an RX8 or MMP and a good front servo.

I'm selling a bnip Hitec 7955TG. *shameless plug I know.