I went to the LHS today to grab a few of the suggested items for upgrades.

Traxxas wheel nuts #1747R - In my opinion these are totally unnecessary. They are only .020" shorter. Not worth the $7.

I mounted up my protrac wheels using both the stock and traxxas wheel nuts and they both engaged fully. Except the traxxas wheel nuts chewed up my wheels more then the stock ones.

I checked the depth of the hex on the Protrac wheels and they measured 4mm. The same as the stock wheels. The same as the stock hex on the axle.

Maybe the guys having issues with them have other issues they aren't seeing?

I've seen alot of issues in here with the pins, both CVA's and hex's. I installed everything just as the manual described and everything is nice and tight. I wish my 2wd sc10 was this tight. Maybe I got a good kit? Maybe I just took my time and didnt rush building it? Dunno.

I will be sticking to the Protrac's and stock wheel nuts though.

The advantage of the #1747R nuts is not that they are shorter, the serrated side digs into the wheel and they never come loose, no need to keep checking them as with the std. nylocks.

jb

anyone tried or measured the De racing wheels for the SCTE?

http://www.rctech.net/forum/search.php?searchid=9497177

I'm in the same boat as you Odin, I haven't had any issues other than opperator error.Sometimes im an idiot.
Now this is only speculation, but the futer engineer in me says the AE engineers left th rear pins partialy exposed so debree, small dust and what-not, can escape rathere than causuing wear on the end of the pins, where they generally wear out, because the are captured by a ring or something.

I agree my protrac wheels got perfect I don't see how people are having problems with them. As for the serrated nuts I think these are definitely needed.

That's the point of the serrated wheel nut. The chewing up of your wheel creates additional friction that will prevent the nut falling off over time.

Does anyone know if anyone makes a spur that works on the sc44 to allow the use of mod1 pinions? Thanks

is it at least on the way?? if not let me know i have one BNIB sealed.

Lots of guys asked for a Losi SCTE vs AE SC10
4x4 report from someone who races/owns both so here it is


I raced my SC10 4x4 on my home track that I've been racing my Losi SCTE
on so I could get a good test between the two.

#1 both run 2S 5600 60C,both RX8 ESC, both 4,5 550 motors the SCTE I
have a Novak 4.5 because it needs more torque then the AE. The AE I have
a Tekin 4.5 for a smoother power delivery. Same servo in both 7955TG Hitec
over kill yes but built proof IMO.

#2 both trucks are using DE SCTE wheels which (fit perfect on both)

Losi set up is silver springs all 4 corners stock pistons 40WT front 30WT
rear. 2.5mm sway bar rear,2.0mm sway bar front. Diffs 5,000 frt,5,000
center,3,000 rear

AE set up is Stock springs all 4 corners stock pistons 35WT front 30WT
rear. 2.5 mm sway bar rear 2.0mm sway bar front. Diffs 10,000 frt 5,000
rear. 4 wd full time 20/20 belt gears.

So now heres the driving.

#1 thing I noticed right away is the Losi jumped way better then the AE.
Now that is with silver springs on the Losi which jumped as bad as the AE
when it had stock springs. (got to be honest here) Give me springs for the
AE and I'm sure I can solve this on the AE also.

#2 The AE accelerates much harder the the Losi even with the higher
torque motor in the Losi. The AE will wheelie out of corners at will. This
looks cool but the Losi will put the power down flat at all times, the AE
you must think about how much throttle you give it out of corners.

#3 turn in, both are good here with the AE maybe having an edge but
the Losi is not running stock springs to get it there like the AE.

#4 Center corner speed has to go to the AE in all types of corners. It's
lighter with the same sway bars which gives a bit more speed in the center
IMO.

#5 exit corner speed. The AE has more on power tighter steering ability
then the Losi which can be good or a bad thing depending on how you
tend to drive. You can bind the AE up coming out with to much power
which will never happen on the Losi. You need more throttle control with
the AE to turn tight under power and not scrub speed.

#6 Braking. The Losi brakes rock solid straight and will stand on it's nose
hard (reverse wheelie) very locked in. The AE on the other hand skips the
belt at max braking and gets skidish IMO. Have to shoot straight here also.
The AE does not require as hard of braking as the Losi because it's lighter
then the Losi.So you won't probably have a problem braking even with the
Losi using less brake on the AE.

#7 stibility over bumps on power Both are awsome on power in bumps but
the Losi is a tick smoother.

#8 stibility over bumps off power the Losi is slightly better here but not a
bunch IMO

#9 stibility over bumps on brakes the Losi wins hands down (BUT) again
it is running silver springs not stock ones. I could do wonders with this
AE if I had different springs to choose from for it.

#10 slick track conditions Losi wins hands down stock or silver springs
the Losi is rock solid on slick. The AE is not bad but it does feel twitchy
some times.

#11 med grip track they both rock IMO they just rock different. AE is a little
twitchier then the Losi but a good twitchy if this makes sence to anyone.
IE: the AE is very responscive, the Losi you plan moves in advance is the
best way I can discribe this.

There was two new AE SC10 4x4's at the track with mine (no sway bars)
The local fast guys that dominate the class's they run all said my AE was
hands down the best out of the 3. They said mine was more planted and
solid looking all the way around the track. I respect what these guys have
to say about handling of cars/trucks, plus I beat the two other AE's by a
bunch and one is a much better driver then me. The Losi's I beat weekly
with my Losi SCTE I still beat by the same distance with my AE SC10 4x4
so IMO if I adapted my driving to the AE I was just as fast as I was with
my Losi but I have to drive them totally different to go that fast.

Bottom line IMO: Their both great trucks and will win their share of races.
I think driving style will dictate which truck you like to drive better. They
will both require tuning and tuning parts to get the best out of them but
they will both be the best on any giving days in the hands of drivers that
their driving style suits a givin truck.

I like them both, time will tell what I like better for my driving style. For
now I'll race them both and keep working on them til I feel I''m getting
the most out of them.

Nice job by both Losi & AE IMO... Thank you both of you"

Its finally on the way, halleujah!

My slipper doesn't even work with it tightened all the way down. Any suggestions.

i also have a set of protrac wheels and they fit perfect too. i measured the hex adapter depth at 4.25mm BEFORE it hits the shoulder. my protrac wheels have a hex depth of 3mm, so there is PLENTY of depth BEFORE it could possibly bottom out on the shoulder of the hex adapter. the unthreaded part of the axle measures 4.95mm, and the inner bore of the protrac wheels are 5mm, once again, i see no issues.

conclusion....Proline Protrac wheels fit FINE!

these are the ones i did all the measurements on and are what i run

http://prolineracing.com/wheels/prot...-white-wheels/

i also recommend the serrated face nuts, i had to run some blue loctite on mine to keep em put after noticing they were loosening after a few laps.

Good writeup Chuck.

i guess F1 cars are all poorly setup