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Originally Posted by Krio
(Post 9867576)
Better tell Maifield that he's disqualified from the roar nats this summer. :lol:
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa...011/index.html |
a little race report from the RCpro finals here in porter TX: i have to be honest in that i just cant get the truck to "act" right, i am about 1.5 seconds off of the pace right now and just cant seem to get a good balance. quickest truck out here right now is Lutz's durango ( he is running laptimes quicker than 99% of pro Ebuggy!!) behind him is a slew of Losi's and i have the quickest SC10. track is hardpack clay, Very smooth and flosing track. i have changed and tried EVERY combo on the planet, even threw in stock pistons (thats a far stretch for me!!) best tire so far has been holeshot 2.0's. it just seems that no matter what i do it is just too "edgy" to drive fast and this edgy-ness stems from the front, i cannot get the truck to even get close to pushing. I think that if i can get some push then i can dial some steering back in to make it comfortable. i dont like running with lower EPA because of the turning radius.
Current setup: Front yellow springs V1 RCshox pistons 1.1/1.2 35wt 5mm RC shims outer arms/mid tower 24mm ride height 7k dif fluid Rear blue springs 1.1/1.2 pistons 25wt 2mm RC shims outer arms /mid tower 24mm ride height 4k dif fluid overdrive front pulley 3-3 rear toe block pinned added a pretty good amount of weight to the chassis sides (around 120g) saddlepack http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/x...Cproroller.jpg http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/x...nalsrythum.jpg http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/x...ofinalspit.jpg i have some good ideas where to go next but since there is no more practice i will have to experiment next week. I am not giving up especially since i have seen with my own eyes the dominance of the durango but i feel like there is still a missing element to this truck. i have two more qualifiers today and the finals start tomorrow , hopefully i can get a good enough run this morning to squeak into the A main! |
Originally Posted by sideways88
(Post 9867604)
They make them with out the +3 offset. That's what he is using.
http://www.jconcepts.net/store/index...roducts_id=504 |
Originally Posted by MantisWorx
(Post 9867637)
a little race report from the RCpro finals here in porter TX: i have to be honest in that i just cant get the truck to "act" right, i am about 1.5 seconds off of the pace right now and just cant seem to get a good balance. quickest truck out here right now is Lutz's durango ( he is running laptimes quicker than 99% of pro Ebuggy!!) behind him is a slew of Losi's and i have the quickest SC10. track is hardpack clay, Very smooth and flosing track. i have changed and tried EVERY combo on the planet, even threw in stock pistons (thats a far stretch for me!!) best tire so far has been holeshot 2.0's. it just seems that no matter what i do it is just too "edgy" to drive fast and this edgy-ness stems from the front, i cannot get the truck to even get close to pushing. I think that if i can get some push then i can dial some steering back in to make it comfortable. i dont like running with lower EPA because of the turning radius.
Current setup: Front yellow springs V1 RCshox pistons 1.1/1.2 35wt 5mm RC shims outer arms/mid tower 24mm ride height 7k dif fluid Rear blue springs 1.1/1.2 pistons 25wt 2mm RC shims outer arms /mid tower 24mm ride height 4k dif fluid overdrive front pulley 3-3 rear toe block pinned added a pretty good amount of weight to the chassis sides (around 120g) saddlepack http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/x...Cproroller.jpg http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/x...nalsrythum.jpg http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/x...ofinalspit.jpg i have some good ideas where to go next but since there is no more practice i will have to experiment next week. I am not giving up especially since i have seen with my own eyes the dominance of the durango but i feel like there is still a missing element to this truck. i have two more qualifiers today and the finals start tomorrow , hopefully i can get a good enough run this morning to squeak into the A main! 1 bladders all the way around use 1.1 pistons with 30 wt ae fluid front and 25 rear rebound 50% blue springs all the way around center holes front and rear shock towers and outer holes on front and rear arms shim 2mm on outer steering knuckle shim under front camber link 5mm and rear 4mm -1 camber all the way around over drive pulley 19 tooth 24 mm front and 23mm rear ride height yellow sway bar front blue rear diff front 10k rear 7k it wont hurt to try it that should develop a push good luck:nod: |
Originally Posted by Mizchief
(Post 9866876)
Metal shavings + motor seems like a bad idea to me.
I was able to get through mine w/ a hand drill and a vise. I must have got and relatively soft one. I did drill a pilot hole. The aluminun part is soft, if it won't go through the shaft pretty easily, then stop and take it somewhere. It ain't got to be pretty, it's hidden..... Just remember to loosen your slipper way up, if you don't your idler gear will most likely be toasted. Who said anything about the motor? or metal shavings? What the heck are you talking about? |
Mantis,
Throw a shim or two on the steering knuckle to remove some of the toe in that happens with bump steer. That should help with mid corner push anyways... |
thanx guys i will throw some of that in the mix for the second round today. i have already basically given up on trying to do anything less than just finishing the race clean. if its fast than so be it!
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Originally Posted by Vegatron75
(Post 9864588)
Bought the slipper hardware kit last night, while at the track. I needed the thrust washer mainly.
I noticed that the slipper spring in the kit was quite a bit taller than my original. The new spring was at least 3/16 maybe 1/4 taller, uninstalled. If some of you guys are still slipping the stock slipper w/ the OG spring and using washers to crutch it, you might try a new spring, instead. I replaced my diff cases a week or so ago, I noticed a bad sound, coming from the rear I think, when finishing a corner on power. A not nice clicking type sound. When I did the diffs, I only replaced the cases and shims, the OG gears are still in there. I pulled the diff apart and noticed that the part of the sun gear closest to the OD was wearing unevenly. I guess it must be skipping when under a heavy load. My shims, under the sun gear, had coned up pretty bad, from the wobbly outdrive pin. I think that caused the sun gear and planet gear mesh to tighten, in time wearing it too much. When I pulled the shims and put new ones in, It must of opened the mesh up enough cause the skipping. Ran the truck last night, w/ the new rebars, got back some of that loving feeling for sure. Got my lap I lost back. Running a 4.5 550 and it's thrown my rear suspension out of whack. I was able to remove all dead weight, when switching from 1410 to 550. The saddle packs weren't good for me, I think it was because I was running the 1410, if I had the 550/rx8 in there it would probably be better. Keith. |
Originally Posted by fastrc64
(Post 9867712)
if you want your truck to push i would try this setup
1 bladders all the way around use 1.1 pistons with 30 wt ae fluid front and 25 rear rebound 50% blue springs all the way around center holes front and rear shock towers and outer holes on front and rear arms shim 2mm on outer steering knuckle shim under front camber link 5mm and rear 4mm -1 camber all the way around over drive pulley 19 tooth 24 mm front and 23mm rear ride height yellow sway bar front blue rear diff front 10k rear 7k it wont hurt to try it that should develop a push good luck:nod: Keith. |
ok ive just tryt my sc10 4x4 for the 1 time on the parking lot and it feels great i notist thqat it dint seam to acc. as fast ore hard like my jammin / nexx sc10 did. hmmm maybe i need to tighten my slipper abit more.
this is my 1 truck whit a slipper so its pretty new to me. sry for spelling errors but im dyslexic |
Mantis, you might try the 3-2 rear toe block also. Lot of fast guys there, wish I could have made it. Also, on the tires. Holeshots or even Bowties have always been good there on fresh track after rebuild. As that track dries and gets grooved in, typically something like a Suburb or Barcode, etc. has been really good there in 1/8. Should work for SC also. Check with JB and see what he's running in buggy. Good luck to you and Sym, go whup that Losi and Rango arse.
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Originally Posted by fastrc64
(Post 9867368)
the hazard wheels are only made for the sc10 4x4 not the sc10 2wd it makes the 2wd 6mm too wide FYI
I have these on both of my SC10s, 2wd and 4wd, and the track width matches. It is stated by JC that this makes the SC10s meet the max ROAR limit of 296mm. The 6mm width change gets you there. |
Originally Posted by cjtamu
(Post 9867833)
Mantis, you might try the 3-2 rear toe block also. Lot of fast guys there, wish I could have made it. Also, on the tires. Holeshots or even Bowties have always been good there on fresh track after rebuild. As that track dries and gets grooved in, typically something like a Suburb or Barcode, etc. has been really good there in 1/8. Should work for SC also. Check with JB and see what he's running in buggy. Good luck to you and Sym, go whup that Losi and Rango arse.
tried the 3-2 as that is what i normally run, truck would get squirrely under acceleration 3-3 stopped that! i have some rebars but the truck traction rolls badly with them, 2nd qual i rolled at least five times.... |
Originally Posted by ShortCourseOnly
(Post 9867858)
I'm glad that Krio responded before me. On the Jconcepts site they state that the Hazard wheels work for SC10, SC10 4x4 and SCTE and XXX-SCT. All have to have the 12mm hex so the SC10 requires a conversion.
I have these on both of my SC10s, 2wd and 4wd, and the track width matches. It is stated by JC that this makes the SC10s meet the max ROAR limit of 296mm. The 6mm width change gets you there. so if the sc10 4x4 is at max track width using the hazard wheels you are over on the sc10 2wd however i run 2wd kyosho scr i thought about using the hazard wheels on it they might work pretty good on it and be within limits for track width just my observation and measurements. |
Marcus W. try making the rear camber link longest and make it parallel to the ground, that will tighten up the truck.
Paul R. |
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