Artikbot

Turnigy Nanotech 4850mAh 50-100C.

Don't know how real the C rating is, but I can assure you that it has MUCH more punch that my old IP 5000mAh 25C. It gets nowhere as hot, too. And it can be charged safely up to 8C.

I'm about to order a 5100mAh 65-130C pack though, just to have as a spare, since all my other packs are sticks.

ShortCourseOnly

I know there is a video on the AE site that goes through the details. I follow that proceedure. It is actually simple:

1) Fill the shocks with oil
2) Use the seal provided with your kit and install it in the shock cap
3) Complete the fill to just over full on the shock body.
4) With the bleed screws removed, install the cap on the shock body
5) Now slowly compress the shock completely. Shock oil should leak out of the bleed hole. Maintain the shock compressed
6) With the shock compressed, install the bleed screw with seal.
7) Actuate the shock to check for air and ensure there is no rebound.

This is what I do and it works great.

the_freak

ok thanks ill give it a go then
but does that give more smooth shock action then if they wher whit bladders??

Vegatron75

iTrader: (4)

I have run before. I've been using the sidewinder castle set-up since it came out. Had it my scrt10,crt.5, and my sc10.

I recently smoked my mmp and had to run 4-5 race days w/ the sidewinder. It worked fine. Just put the fan or a fan on the esc. I swear the thing barely got over 100* w/ the fan on all the time.

So, Yes.

Vegatron75

iTrader: (4)

I'd check,

1.the tensioners, make sure the lip is intact on both. and that roll freely.

2.Make sure the front pulley is seating properly on the flat plate deal w/ the big square on it. I'd bet this is your problem, if it doesn't sit flat you'll have too much space and the belt could get let loose.

3. Make sure your using the 20t front pulley, at least for this experiment.

The tensioner should effectively pin the belt in place. There's not enough room for the belt to get between them, normally.

I'd take off, the all the outside/battery side,belt covers.

Check to see if the front pulley is seated properly.

Tighten clicker nut all the way.

Set the tensioners to the stock settings. then run it in the drive or street and see if you can see the problem happening. Or at least where it's starting.

Or on the bench, sounds like it could happen there to.

I bet your front pulley is seated, it's not easy to see and depending which end you put the belt on last can be hard to get it clocked properly.

Mundy1

iTrader: (50)

I also run those NanoTech 4850mah 50-100C saddles. They have alot more punch than my Venom 4800 30C saddles.

One thing to remembe when you order your 5100 packs is that if you switch between the 2 the balence of the truck will change. switching between my venom and my NanoTech changes the feel of the truck alot more than I expected.

tjbgtv8

iTrader: (2)

I have the sidewinder in mine with the fan on the esc and another fan on the motor. I don't even think I need the fan on the motor because it was like 116 after a few minutes of running, which is cold for a motor. The sidewinder will be fine as long as you have a fan on it and your motor is geared correctly (14-16 pinion, and 32pitch 62tooth spur). It also depends on the temp outside and how long you will be running. Good luck!

Redbeard

iTrader: (2)

I've acquired some RCShoxs, MTK basket and the Garo pads. Just wondering what setup people have found to be the most successful using the items above.

Rcshoxs: Bladder or emulsion? Same shock weight shock oil (30/25)?

Slipper: Running on low traction, 1/8th scale outdoor track, with pin mod. Do you think 3 Garo disks too much? Rather not do any damage, but I'd like some consistent performance.

Thanks

symmetricon

iTrader: (27)

Artikbot

I have a 'slightly larger than needed' saddlepack tray where I adjust my packs with a 5mm foam spacer, so I think that the 5100mAh will requiere me to push the truck backwards (I now run it all the way upfront for more front grip).

Truth is those cells can't be beaten in price/performance. Awesome punch, decent quality and a ridiculous RRP.

Redbeard

iTrader: (2)

Asociated did indeed respond and made an effort to address the issue:

Thank you for taking the time to voice your concerns, we appreciate hearing from our customers, it helps us to better our products and support for the future.

I will start by addressing the issue with the arms bending. I agree with you, it is unfortunate that the arms bend over time like they do. My truck has done the same thing but, as Chris pointed out, you can stop a great deal of it by storing the vehicle off the tires. I have tested this myself and it does work. Now, as I said, I agree it is unfortunate that the arms do this. Because of this, I am happy to send you a new set of front and rear arms but, I must admit, this will happen again.
So much of the way a vehicle drives, handles, jumps, crashes, etc is determined by the type of plastic used. It’s a constant race to handle the needs of both strength and performance.

In regards to the slipper, what we have found is that by de-coupling the slipper we have effectively cut the slip surface on the slipper pads in half. We have tested extensively and have a solution but, it will not be available for a while. What we have been doing is providing our customers with a solution, notifying them of a wonderful product to help them get their Team Associated vehicle back up to speed. What is needed is multiple slipper pads like that of a motorcycle or dragster. The clutch basket Chris was telling you about is that solution. Yes, it would be nice to get all your aftermarket parts from the manufacturer of the brand of vehicle you drive, in fact we would prefer you by all your parts from us but, at the end of the day we want to make sure your experience with your vehicle is a good one. Sometimes that means we might have to suggest a aftermarket solution.

You are correct, others have had the issue and have contacted AE in regards to it however, you are the first to be dissatisfied with the assistance given. Which I understand, I can’t say I wouldn’t feel the same way you do if I were in your position.
What I can do is send you some front and rear arms, as mentioned above and I can also send you a couple sets of slipper pads.

I use the slipper basket Chris mentioned to you and it works fantastic. It’s very cool after market piece for the 4x4.

Please send me your sipping information and I will get the parts sent to you right away.

Once again, sorry for the trouble you have been having, I hope together we can get you back up and running.

SS LS1

iTrader: (23)

That's good to hear as I have a 5100mAh 65-130C Nanotech saddlepack on order, just not sure how many Weeks I'll have to wait on shipping. *sigh*

rickybobbyxxx

iTrader: (-1)

Yea orded new belt, alumunim tensioners, and new belt covers,so hopefuly all new hardware equals fixed. Also bought chassis brace and new moter mount with third tensioner on it. It would be cool if someone could make belt covers that was also chassis brace!!!!! So if ur on here tonight mantis lol

SS LS1

iTrader: (23)

Well at least Associated is admitting there is a problem with the slipper system and have a fix in the works. But I'd bet they do not replace the original pieces with the new setup for customers with existing SC10 4x4 trucks. Only time will tell.

Thanks for sharing.

SS LS1

iTrader: (23)

I thought about that when I first saw the truck in person but since the belt is off center don't think that is the best place for a chassis brace. I think it is best right down the center line of the chassis keeping the front/rear gearbox spacing consistent.