Buliding a new truck. which setup is best? saddle up front side by side or up the centerline of truck one behind the other?

Yeah, that's me. Where have you ran this setup at?

With the 20t ones the truck will not roll at all on its own. And thats with the tensioners all the way loose. I think I'm gonna try just the 19 upfront for a few packs to see if it will help break the belt in a little bit then go back to the 20.

Anyone selling the center section already drilled for saddle pack setup?

Any word yet. Really curious to see. I notice that alot of the tracks above mentioned are hard pack. Our track are loose dirt to mid packed. Is this going to make that much of a difference, even if weight is added to the other side I the truck?

I was one of those who didn't think he had issues with the stock slipper. I've been running all this season with a Castle 1410 and doing extremely well on my local 1/8 scale track.

This track has a couple of hUge jumps that are not easy to clear consistently as they require a lot of run-in which is hard to do due to the track being super bumpy, rutted and blown out by the 1/8 scale rigs. During a 5min heat, I can clear our large double but toward the end of the heat it gets really hard without a perfect line to it. I assumed my battery going soft. Turns out the stock slipper was heating up and slipping. No noise and it was really hard to tell because the truck still felt really fast.

Enter today...Newly installed clutch basket and I can clear the large double with half the run-in and throughout the entire heat or main. And to think I ordered the clutch basket awhile ago and let it sit on my shelf for a few weeks until I felt like installing it for the hell of it.

Anyway, I went from barely clearing the large double to overshooting it as bad as my RC8Be. It felt like I had a new, more powerful motor in the truck. All by just adding the clutch basket. Best money I've spent on this truck, hands down.

Delta, norcal, OCRC, West Coast and Hot Rod. Delta mostly though. Get the clutch basket also

Bone stock with maifields setup.

Running a standard reedy stick pack down the side

The car was just thrown together thursday and first run friday.

2 days with the car, even bigger props to the Hartson crew!

Just thought i would fill my fellow sc10 4x4 brothers in on a great setup to achieve yet another adjustable feature to a great truck! I race around Indianapolis on a few mid grip tracks and as you know the sc10 4x4 is much lighter than the competition. Some of us on here have been adding weight to the truck to bring it up to a more forgiving truck on these type of tracks. Adding saddle packs to balance the truck is also key.

I came up with an adjustable weight bias nerf bar made from 1/4 carbon fiber that replaces existing oem nerfs. I first made the truck scale out with a molded lead piece opposite the motor so even with no nerf leads I am scaled out even dead on. Then I melted and molded a couple leads for the side nerfs. The leads can be slid back and fourth for more front or rear bias according to the track conditions and the flight of the truck.

Total weight of the truck is now up to 6.6lbs bringing it up to the losi weight and making this truck AWESOME to drive. We race with some top notch 4x4 guys around here and this truck has yet to be beat! ENJOY!!

Steven was running the traditional battery setup, no saddle packs...Kinwald was running the saddle packs along with several other drivers.

jamie ferrell


Very kool !


Do the "neaf's" you made add stiffest & help control chassis flex ?

Plenty of power and about 12 minute run time before it feels like its gonna lipo cut-off. Put 3900mah back into the 4000 mah pack after that 12 minute run. Its a 65c as well

Thanks....No they bolt in just the center original locations so the flex is still there. I will be adding a carbon tierod down the center for that.

Thanks Kevin, that was a great race to watch.

-Jorge