sc10 4x4 SHOCK LEAKS BAD?
 

MY SC10 4X4 LEAKING RIGHT FROM SHOCK BODY AND GREY CANISTER SCREW TOGETHER ANYBODY HAVING OR HAD THE PROBLEM WHATS ALL THE EXTRA SHOCK STUFF WITH THE KIT ALSO?THANX

I stole this right out of the hudy offroad setup guide.

Anti-roll bars are used to adjust the car’s side (lateral) grip. They can also be used in
conjunction with a softer spring rate to handle bumpy tracks more effi ciently without
excessive chassis roll at mid-corner. Anti-roll bars resist chassis roll and by doing so
transfer wheel load from the inside wheel to the outside wheel. The stiffer the anti-roll
bar, the more load is transferred. However, as the outside wheel is not able to convert the
extra wheel load into extra grip, the sum of the grip of both wheels is actually reduced.
This changes the balance of the car to the axle at the other end of the car; increasing the
stiffness of an anti-roll bar on one particular axle (front or rear) decreases the side grip of
that axle and increases the side grip of the axle at the other end of the car.
The overall traction of a car cannot be
changed, but it can be balanced by
distributing wheel loads. Anti-roll bars are
a very useful tool to change the balance
of the car. Chassis stiffness plays a very
important role in the effectiveness of
anti-roll bars, and a stiffer chassis makes
the car more responsive to anti-roll bar
changes.
The front anti-roll bar affects mainly off-power steering at corner entry.
The rear anti-roll bar affects mainly on-power steering and stability in mid-corner and at
corner exit.

with this in mind and the fact that this truck has a ton of steering I run only a 2mm swaybar at the front. becouse a front swaybar will reduce front grip while taking a corner, and you will gain rear traction.

it works for me.

Anyone using the carbon rear hub mounts? whats your opinion on these?

As for now, the only solid idea I have (Christian, the guy that had the RC company, if you can do this you'd be the man), consists in redesigning front and rear bumpers, this way:


1) Remove rear bumper holder from there, and make it L shaped instead of \ shaped, so you can concentrate the weight on the lower support. Possibly using LDPE mounts and carbon stiffeners that hold onto the upper support (to withstand the impacts without breaking, but also holding the shape)

2) Design a new rear bumper, made out of lighter plastic, maybe hollow LDPE.

3) Lowering a couple centimeters the front bumper so it doesn't collide with the body and lowers the CG aswell.

4) Building a lightened front skidplate&bumper support, maybe using an X pattern on the middle instead of a die cast carbon composite piece.


If we can lose around an oz and lower the rest of the weight an inch, that's a lot we'll gain.


Now the thing is how to do it without making the bumpers so fragile that they disintegrate on a possible (and rest assured it will happen) crash with a Losi involved :lol:


With all this, if we can lose 1oz including the mounts, the lighter bumpers, and on top of that, and we can lower the CG a bit, maybe we'll have an even better racer!


Or maybe just lowering an inch both bumpers is enough, who knows.
And this can be easily done, just by bending the stock parts with heat.

ThunderbirdJunkie's bumpers drag enough as it is, ITBJHO, they don't need to be lowered and it would be a detriment when landing a little nose high or coming in hot and nose-down.

However, ThunderbirdJunkie does wish RPM would release a bumper for the SC10 4w soon...

ThunderbirdJunkie would need to fall in a steep angle of around 25º upwards or 15-20º downwards to hit the ground with the lowered bumpers.

This is how it usually happens:lol:

:lol:

Then ThunderbirdJunkie needs to rethink how does he make his truck fly :lol:

Artikbot's truck usually lands upside down on that damn triple :weird:


Damn you parachute effect!

Hmmm, it sounds like your undergeared. If I run no timing and no boost, it is slow. I'm using 10 deg of advanced timing from 3000rpms to 10000 rpms. It gives it good low to mid punch, and a fast top end.... using a MMP.
You also might want to check you driveline assembly for any binding.... hope you get it figured out:)

im finally giving in to the clutch basket.
 

clutch basket will be on order ASAP. after today's day of practice, i noticed that i couldn't clear and land the jump as easily as yesterday. plus my car went sweeeek squeeek sweek sweeek!!! on acceleration every time and put out no punch at all. fresh HT pads on a cranked down slipper was nice, but it did not last long. i want power on demand, consistently.

however, the lack of punch has taught me how to become a better driver. Since i got no punch on demand, i had to learn how to drive smoothly and maintain good momentum by taking the right lines and only braking when absolutely necessary.

anyone else who thinks that their sc10 4x4 is fine w/ the stock slipper, stop lieing to yourself like i did, go get it.

Welcome to the Darkside. We have punch, and cookies.;)

FYI, Steve Hartson just won 4wd at WCRC over 3 Losi drivers, Root, Truhe and Turner in the final. Curious if he is running the saddle pack setup.

Nice! I would like to know if he ran saddle packs or not.

I ran at sdrc for the 1st time today with my brand new clutch basket! I ended up tq'ing but didn't bring home the win, finished 2nd. I had a good time, the track was fun...lanes were a little narrow so if you go make sure your truck has good steering!

I am, i think i like it better but im still working on a set-up and figuring out which hole i like best.
I think we should start a separate thread for it, what do you think?

Just picked one of these up. Are there any must have upgrades? Thanks