No where in my post did I say you were a bad driver. Unlike in your post you saying that I don't know how to drive an AE Truck.

What I will openly say is that your "analogy" of adding weight is lousy, and here is the evidence:

1.Adding weight does not make you traction roll more. It will actually decrease the chance of a traction roll if you place it low on the chassis. You are effectively lowering the relative CG of Truck. The lower this is, the less prone to traction rolling. This is physics 101.

2.You do not have to "wait to add power" with extra weight. As a matter of fact, adding extra weight allows the truck to accelerate better as there is more pressure being put on the tires. I'll put a simple and extreme example for you: try accelerating hard with a pick up truck and an empty bed liner. The truck will peel out all the way to Monday. Now add some weight to it. Up to a point it will accelerate quicker because it can generate traction. At a certain point though, the extra weight will make it sluggish. This point was found on the SC10 4X4 by adding weight slowly and looking at lap times. Once lap times stopped getting faster (and in one heat actually were 1 second slower) I took away weight. With this process I reached an optimum weight for the truck. This is a bit of the experimental method being put into action.

3.Weight adds stability, it does not take it away. This one is easy and I'll let you answer it: what's more stable, a Losi or an AE SC Truck?

On your other comments, I've been doing this too long to be told that "my driving style does not suit this truck". What that sounds like to me is "I Don't know how to get my truck to drive right, so I must be doing it wrong". I look at it differently and say "how can I make this truck easier to drive fast and more forgiving so I can crash less."

This desire to make something better, led me to star my own RC Company almost 4 years ago. I own an RC Company that designs and manufactures RC Parts for a living, in which my job, specifically, is to develop and tune chassis. Our last stop was the TC6, which we have been able to create quite an impact in the industry. We now have all the top AE drivers in the USA and UK running our parts on their cars (including 2 Time World Champ Joel Johnson) because they made the cars better. This is our Goal with the SC10 4X4. The SC10 4x4 box set-up is not a very good out of the box compared to others out there. Our goal is to make the truck drivable for EVERYONE . If this means making it drive like a Losi, the so be it. The truck is better out of the box than the AE anyways. The AE has a lot more unlocked potential though.

Lastly, coming from an on-road background, I am EXTREMELY smooth. The problem with the truck is that it is stressful to drive it fast around the track. You have to wait to be pointing in a straight line to be able to accelerate well without the truck doing something weird. This is not how a 4WD should be driven, and this is where the advantage lies over a 2WD truck. A 4WD vehicle should be able to start accelerating sideways, and smoothly transition over to a straight line. With a light weight SC104X4, this is extremely difficult to do aggressively and this translates into lost time on the time sheets. Adding weight made this better. This is not an issue of it being AE or Losi or Durango. It is a stability issue, which can very easily be mitigated.

Oh, and yes, our track is big, very big. I did state this on previous posts, but I have a feeling you either did not read them, or simply you read what you wanted to read once again.

CristianTabush i couldn't agree with you more, I started laughing when I read the user's comments, but ehhh to each his own......


Finally got most of the parts I wanted for my sc10, here are a few pics of it before I take it to the track tomorrow to start testing out the changes I've made:

So far:

26mm ride height front 28mm rear
Yellow springs front with 35w, and blue springs rear with 27.5w
7k front diff (gonna raise it as I test it out), 5k rear
Camber 1.5mm front/rear
2.0mm front rear swaybar
MMP ESC/1410 geared at 16/62 no timing no punch
Savox Servo
Barcodes front/rear

Want to add try:

Different shock pistons, trackstar o-rings, and will be switching out the castle setup for my tekin rx8 and tekin pro4 when it comes in:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...8-18100954.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...8-18100942.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...8-18100931.jpg

Thank all of you guys for the comments and help... I really appreciate the help :nod:

I will try going down on the pinion first.... I was just thinking if Ty could run a 15 pinion an make it work, I shouldn't have any problem. I know he is pushing his truck faster than I will ever go :lol: Maybe it was just the way he had his esc set-up??

Cameron, current limiter is my best friend... I race E-buggy mainly, so I use that option alot ;) Makes everything smoother, without any notice of power lost.

Woa woa woa stop right there!!

You turned it all around. I never said you were a bad driver!! I said the Losi fits you more, from what I've been deducing.

If you track is very big as you say, then confirms what I said. You run a big track, ergo losi-like trucks will always do better than the AE, ergo adding ballast weight makes the truck go faster to a certain point. Period. Nothing else to be talked about.


Now chill! I don't wanna be enemies with anyone ;)

I'm considering trying the Losi, just for comparisons.

you will like it much better.......srsly

I like my AE truck alot......the Losi is just better in most ways:nod::tire:

I wouldn't waste the money, might as well grab a E 1/8 buggy. It'll drive like the losi.

If I do not have a electronic scale to mesure the weight of my car, and I want to balance my car left and right side. What are my options? How can I do such thing?

It's that big. The road side hosted an IFMAR world championship last year and is the new host to the RC Pro off road world champs this year. One of the nicest places I've ever gone to race.

Really looking forward to seeing what you come up w/ for the truck. Makes it easy for me if someone else comes up with all the answers.

I agree that the sc10 has way more potential than the losi, that's why I picked it over the Losi, plus I had a SCRT10 and didn't want to go w/ a 3 diff rig.

I have found that if I stay cool and run "my" race I do fine. If I try to push the truck too hard it doesn't like it. On the other hand I don't feel like pushing it hard, sliding around and such, is worth it anyway. At least at the hi-traction indoor track I run on. ANother reason I picked the AE.

I picked up 15 secs over 5min out of the box, another 15 after messing w/ it a little. This is over my SCRT10, which I won with most of the time club racing.

I love the truck and look forward to seeing how you can make it even better.

Shoot, I took the truck to a big 35sec lap time outdoor track last weekend. Dusty as heck and huge. I ran the truck w/ no changes from my local indoor set-up, other than tires. 6 4x SC trucks in the race, 3AE, 2 losi, 1 slash. AE was top 3, and the slash 4, guess you can figure out where the LOsis finished.hahahaha

I'm running pretty stock set-up, home-made sways, and bar-codes. Outdoor I ran enduros. Luckily my slipper nut backed way off at the outdoor track. I run the slipper pretty tight indoors, and over the day, 3/5min quals, and 1/10min main, the nut had backed off and made the truck so easy to drive on the dusty/real dusty track. It tuned itself.;)

For an intermediate guy like me, the truck is great. It rewards smooth, controlled driving, and punishes you for driving over your head. Heck it's tough as nails too.

Then, no doubt. The Losi hands down.

Sometimes I wonder why Spain is so stone-age in terms of RC. 60% of the clubs only race nitro 1/8 buggies, a 30% of the rest are touring-exclusive clubs, and the 10% of the rest are 1/10 buggies.

As far as I know, on my country the SC10 4x4 that are currently rolling don't add more than 50. And there's only ONE retailer selling them without needing to place a special order to AE.


Most people race on backyard/neighborhood tracks, because the councils put a lot of obstacles towards building an IFMAR-EFRA legal track.

You guys have so many nice tracks on the States :eek:


The only track in a 100km radius from home is, like we call it, an A-arm nommer. The jumps are short and tall, most of the time you hit them with the bumper, and you usually land bottom-flat unless you take it very slowly. You can literally hear the chassis spanking on the ground.

1/10 buggies don't go there. I've seen shock towers and A arms literally fly away into pieces after landing. When I say cars fly well above 6 and 7ft I'm not over-exagerating stuff.


I see Norcal's track and a big :eek::eek::eek: comes to mind. You guys are very lucky ;)

^^
Holy jesus what a wall of text! My apologies!! :weird:

i had the same thought about adding weight. but then i noticed Most of my local drivers are going to carbon chassis and towers on the Losi. which is bringing them to same weight or less than my sc10 and they still are stable. i believe its the chassis design more than the weight.

center diffs rule:D

Probably the more ground-close drivetrain helps aswell.

If you think about it, the gearboxes on the AE are rather lifted in comparison to the rest of the body. Plus having the belt and the belt cover hanging relatively high helps to rise the CG.

I lean towards using wheels with a greater offset to increase width rather than increasing the weight.

The first simply improves handling. The second comes with drawbacks.

@Matt: I doubt it's the center diff what makes a difference... It's more the distribution of components.

I have heard that somewhere before...