Started the build tonight and notice that they put diff oil in the diffs now. 5k in the rear and 20k in the front. Leaked out pretty good but I thought grease was in them. Also anyway to seal the diffs up a little better. They are so darn small to handle.

Terry

I cleaned up the gear diff bodies with some brake cleaner, smeared some AE green slime on the paper seals, no diff oil leaks out at all :nod:

Been reading back a few (a few DOZEN pages :lol:) I'm getting ready to purchase an SC10 4x4 and I'm wondering what parts are needed to have as replacements and also what option parts to have. Going to be running a Tekin Pro4 4000/RX8. Anyone have an ETA on a FT SC10 4x4?:batman:

On page 15 now and was referring back to page one for build tips/tricks and noticed on the newer kits like mine some of the issues have been resolved. Maybe the OP can correct these on the first post. Example so far is the kit comes with serrated nuts, page 14 the ballstuds are positioned on the outer side. and that's it for now. Maybe more when I get further. Taking my sweet time on this and enjoying it.

Terry

I just installed front and rear sway bar on. Will that take away some of the sensitiveness in steering?

Cant test now cause its raining the the rest of week :(

tearing down front end????
 

any1 have any advice on quickest way to take apart front end and get to servo....

I took off Bumpers, then the front arm mount and the shocks are off....

Figures i have to next, unscrew all the screws holding the front chasis together.....What about the belt and clicker????

ANY ADVICE????

THX

Hey guys I had a quick question about ESC's...will I notice a difference replacing my mmp ESC with a mamba monster? Iwant just a little more punch. I know the monster is almost double the weight but I figure the 120amp monster should be much more powerful than the 80amp mamba max pro unless the 1410 won't pull more than the pro will provide. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks

BONDobird,

RX8 instead of Mamba monster

taking out servo&diff
 

i also took off the clicker and the front belt cover.....read post above^

1) should i just take off the whole front end, arms and everything?
2)Another way I can get the servo in&out??

i am going to put higher diff fluid in so, i need to take the diff out also..

I was trying not to explode the whole front but,....time frame

thx.

SERVO&DIFF installation
 

OK,
I got the DIFF & SERVO out with taking out the minimal screws&washers
as possible, i think.....

I found a replacement for the screw that backed out and looked slightly bent,(post above^)..... My main problem with the servo is the sub trim being way off, do I need to use the servo TOOL that straightens it out again??? I did that like 1st step while building, but it didn't come out right....I have the Battery/ESC/RX for when I am ready to put the servo horn on....

Do i have the correct thinking here, do I need to take anything else out to put the servo& diff back in correctly??????/


ALSO, I am considering using the BLUE ALUMINUM nuts, while rebuilding what i have taken apart?? thoughts?? only nuts/not screws....
I only ran the truck 4x, so i was going to wait alil longer before replacing the nuts.

ANY advice....
THX going to sleep, check back 2morow

I seem to have an issue.

Are the diff cups really wobbly? My front diff seems to be very wobbly, and I think there's no oil left inside, since it's been leaking quite a lot from the very first day.


Any ideas on how to seal them? Btw, it seems to be leaking from the outdrives and not from the paper seals.

can I run a 550 size motor on a 1/10 scale ESC
 

Hi Guys,
can I run a 550 size motor (haven't decided on an exact model yet) on an LRP SXX version 1/version 2 ESC? BTW, just finished putting together the SC10 4x4, and discovered an issue with my servo. It wasn't as hard or time consuming to fix as per some of the feedback seen on the forum.
Cheers,
G

Yes you can, I am running the LRP sxx v2 TC Spec esc with the tekin 550 motor. It runs awesome, and the esc doesnt overheat or anything.

The diffs get wobbly when the copper inserts in the diffs, where the outdrives go in, wear out. Why AE used copper instead of steel, I dont know:weird: That is why I bought hot racings hard anodized diffs, but the question is, will they last? Only time will tell.

Yes, that is the bad part of this truck I hate it. You have to limit up travel on the shocks so that the a arm doesnt hit the outdrive. That is what causes the wobbly diffs.