I know I was just crying because I the motor quit on me in the A main 4 minutes into the race, because it got dirty. I replaced the sensor board hoping that will fix it.

:confused: Maybe a dumb question but was it a brushless motor? I havent cleaned mine didnt think they can get hurt by dirt but i might need to rethink that huh.

I haven't ever had a problem with a brushless motor just stopping on me. I do however pull them apart around every 4-6 weeks just to check them out, replace or re-oil the bearing and stuff like that.

Yes it is the lrp brushless 5.5t for the 4x4. Out of the group of us running that motor I'm the only one with issues. Dust builds up under the cap and interferes with the sensor board, so I cleaned mine after every run and it still failed. Its always a good idea to pull the cap off and sensor to lightly brush away the dirt. I also pop out the bearing to ensure there is no grinding or dirt inside. I also blow out the can to help keep it clean. Some say ocd, but I clean my sc10 and sc10 4x4 nearly perfect after every race.

for anybody asking about soldering irons:
do yourselves a favor and get a good quality iron liem the hakko. I have the 936 but that looks to be discontinued now. The new one is the fx-888. One of the best investments I have made. Another alternative is the trakpower tk-950. I believe that is a rebadged hakko 936.

Well when I got back from practice last weekend I just kind of threw the truck down and figured I'd work on it later in the week...

...that time came last night. Figured it was time to tear down the suspension, clean all the hinge pin holes, polish the pins, then refill and check the shocks. Everything was going well until I took off the right front a-arm.

I don't know what I or my son hit, but holy crap! I had to press the hinge pin out because the lower arm was bent. The shot was so hard the CVA shaft had a huge bend in it too. Even the hub and carrier weren't moving smoothly. So I have all those parts on order before I can put this thing back together. May take the shocks apart tonight but I figured the right front shock shaft is bent to hell too...though it didn't feel like it. I dodged a bullet with the hinge pins (they're still straight) so who knows.

Was surprised to see how much binding there was in the rear suspension arms because of dirt. Had to press out those pins but then ran a pipe cleaner through the arms and saw a little cloud of dust come out. Cleaned the pins and re-installed them...went in very easily.

I know to many of you this may not be a surprise but I'd thought I'd share for those that are still new to playing in the dirt (my god, on-road NEVER had these kinds of maintenance issues...).

Thanks. Your explanation was good enough for the rear, and you already posted pictures of the front, here:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/9412277-post1454.html

Welcome to offroad, our suspensions move in inches not millimeters :D

Haha nice, I remember this saying from when I used to race modified tc and 2wd buggy at the same time.

a centre diff would add a TON more rotational mass than the clutch basket....plus there would be a lot more weight in the drivetrain to support a centre diff in a belt drive truck...

I don't think you CAN get the motor inside the underbody...I don't think the uncut undertray would fit on the body....

That being said, I don't really understand all this worry about heat and underbodies.... the underbody is really no different than an 8th scale buggy body....cut some holes for airflow and you will still keep out most of the crud...

JayL thinks Mac the Knife has crazy FAST Service :)


Yellow Front Springs on the way, can't wait to feel the difference

I spied some new STRC aluminum parts that are coming for the SC10 4x4 soon, not even on their site yet: All will be available in Blue, Gun Metal, Red, and Silver:

Bellcrank Steering System
Heatsink Finned Motor Plate
HD Caster Blocks
Hex Adapters with drive pins
1 Piece Front Arm Mount
.5 Degree Toe-In Rear Hub Carriers
Standard Rear Hub Carriers
3-2 Rear Arm Mount with Delrin inserts
3-3 Rear Arm Mount with Delrin inserts
Front and Rear Shock Bodies
Spring Collars

extra Delrin inserts for rear arm mounts will also be available separately

and Belt Tensioner Pulley, hard anodized only

Mac The Knife doesn't have to wait on a boat from China!!

Thanks again for your order.

I've just posted a pic of the Ver3 basket on my for sale thread,,,

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ml#post9451398