Tape the holes, use CA to fill the other holes in the wheel. Any holes inside the wheel just give a path for dirt to migrate into the tire, the old Losi wheels with the lexan mud plugs and the ribbing on the outside excepted.

I run Subcultures. I'll replace the cover and check the dang front tensioner. I don't see how I could have got it on backwards but anything's possible.

The track had some real nice tight S turns that I was getting better at by tuning the clicker and front shock locations. I know the truck can be dialed in more, this was my first time at this track. I do want to fare better, much better next time.

The belt issue absolutely has to be solved though. With the temp index being like 100 with the humidity we have here, I don't really feel like tearing this truck down between rounds while losing 2-3 lbs of sweat.

I may try a longer pin tire that is wider spaced, the clay was really getting caked up on my subs. The whole chassis was caked, I'll post some pics LOL

hey jeff my buddy had alot of belt trouble and it ended up being that he was using too much brake. these 550and or 4pole motors are torquey as heck on the brake side he set his brake down ALOT and now it perfect. and try aka enduros for tires

ok don't laugh at my ghetto rigged servo tape covers for the esc/receiver. It worked LOLOLOLOL.

definitely need an underbody.

i'm gonna do that right now.

Bring your rear shocks on the inside of arm.?

+1 on the enduros, that's what I'm running outdoors.

I run no drag brake on mine, the Castle definitely makes the torque. I'm running 16/62, I wonder if that's what it is.

My belt slips on acceleration. I'm running the 20 rear/19 front pulleys.

Regarding the chassis flexing, don't you want that? or do we want as stiff a chassis as possible?

I'll definitely check out those enduros. thanks guys.

I have yet to have belt issues and I have been running the same one since day one on multiple tracks. And my truck fly's level and true unless the jump is jacked up . You definatly do not want the belt tight, set it on the loose side, then adjust you brake expo as to where the belt does not skip. I have yet to hear a belt skip on throttle.

Enduros are the shizzle btw, and you do want some chassi flex. And with the castle its good to run some push controll.

For the front belt issues.

Make sure you turn your brakes right down. Only have enough to stop you on the track.

Check your front belt tensioner, make sure it is installed the right way, the book shows you the correct installation.

Also run your front tensioner tighter then the rear, mine is on 4 at front and 2 at rear.



the main thing is the brakes, if they are set too high, the belt will pop off the front. you dont need brakes that high.



also check your tensioners and make sure they dont wobble on the bearing.

if they wobble a bit, use some plumbers tape around the outside of the bearings and then put them in the tensioners.

Mine doesn't come off anymore. after some checking and tensioning .

on my ckhobby 4 pole motor I have to run my max brake around 50%, anything over that and it just lockup city:lol:

Just got my sway bars. Which one are you guys using?

I'm running 2mm front and rear. It would really come down to how much bite your track has though, if it's loose run the lighter ones, higher bite, thicker bars

I will go thru them again tomorrow. Thanks for the tips. Something has to got to be wrong the way i have mine set. I have mine tight on both ends and still slipping. Might even replace the tensioner.

I had one time where the belt flipped itself inside out. I was like wtf..

mine did that a few times. only when i was going over a jump and using full throttle at the same time as landing wrong or flipping,

belt drive has more maintenance then shaft drive systems but it has its perks, more responsive, quieter, less trouble on the drive train.