5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
07-11-2011, 05:00 AM
#4456
What gearing are you running? Today was my first day with my sc104x4 and im trying the 540 set-up. Ive been doing alot of gearing testing started with a 21 and ended at a 15/93 and my temps stopped going down it appeared after 6 minutes of driving hard they are at 180-185.
Im running an lrp x12 octa 5.5 with an optional 12.5mm rotor, im going to try the 13mm rotor(didnt realize there was one when i ordered the 12.5mm rotor)
Its super fast and still plenty of torque until it gets hot.
Got a pair of associated fans i may install in front of the motor but would have to do some dremeling.
Im running an lrp x12 octa 5.5 with an optional 12.5mm rotor, im going to try the 13mm rotor(didnt realize there was one when i ordered the 12.5mm rotor)
Its super fast and still plenty of torque until it gets hot.
Got a pair of associated fans i may install in front of the motor but would have to do some dremeling.
That still seems a bit warm. Are you sure there is no binding in your drive train? I am running the castle 1410 and my temps are 145-155 after a solid ten minute run and I am geared 22/93. I know it is the four pole and all, and i am running it indoors, but..... My buddy is running a novak 5.5 540 and he gets a little warm towards the end of his mains but he is geared 18-19/93 and i don't think he is getting that hot. something else might be going on. i would get those fans in asap.
good luck man and happy racing.
ben
07-11-2011, 05:09 AM
#4457
I woudnt say there is anything wrong with his driveline. My 5.5T 550 LRP comes of the track at 170. I have built and rebuilt it at least 5 times and is is super smooth. Then again in the summer electronics are goin to run warm.
I had the chance to run a Durango over the weekend, and it was nice, the shocks are the smoothest i have ever felt. The sc10 had better steering and felt more agile, but the rango felt more stable, especialy in the rear. If I could get my AE to get as much grip as the rango I tried, it would be real fast. All in all, I'll be sticking with my sc10.
BTW, has anyone tried something like 30k i the rear? or something heavyer than 7k?
I had the chance to run a Durango over the weekend, and it was nice, the shocks are the smoothest i have ever felt. The sc10 had better steering and felt more agile, but the rango felt more stable, especialy in the rear. If I could get my AE to get as much grip as the rango I tried, it would be real fast. All in all, I'll be sticking with my sc10.
BTW, has anyone tried something like 30k i the rear? or something heavyer than 7k?
Last edited by symmetricon; 07-11-2011 at 05:22 AM.
07-11-2011, 05:38 AM
#4458
I know alot of you are running 4.5, and 5.5 motors but for the sake of tempature, I'm running a Tekin 6.5, MMP with a 15 tooth coming off a 10 minute main at 154. Truck is fast as hell, really forgiving on the drivetrain. Off to the track tonight going to try it with front AND rear sway bars 
07-11-2011, 06:21 AM
#4459
Is there a max ambient temp lipos should be kept at? Saturday at our track the temp was about 105 degrees and we had two lipo packs that were just sitting around the pits "inflate". The inner metal pouches seemed to pressurize to the point the plactic cases popped open and the packs became unusable. One of them wasn't even being used, just being stored in a guys pit box. Very strange. Has anyone else seen this? I assume it is temp related.
07-11-2011, 07:10 AM
#4460
No TQ this week...missed it by .1 second. I did win the A though. Still the only DNF I've had since running this truck was when a rear wheel nut backed off and I lost a rear wheel/tire.
Changes before the race...
1. Installed AE swaybars front and rear (had been running bars I put together from touring car parts). 2.0mm in the front and 1.5mm in the rear.
2. Raised the rear inner ball studs by 3mm.
3. Moved rear hubs forward.
Results...
Laptimes pretty much the same as before. The truck still has much less rear grip than I would like (and than my Jammin' had). I still can not get back into the throttle as soon as I would like and I have the throttle end point turned down to 85% to keep me from buzzing the rear tires off the turns and down the straight.
Durning the race day I glued up some kit tires and put them on the front. The truck instantly started pushing. I dialed in more dual rate and it was better. Still less rear grip on-throttle than I'd like, though.
Ideas for next race day....
1. Thicker diff fluid up front (currently at 30K)
2. Overdrive pulley up front
I currently have the rear slipper locked because I know it will destroy the pads with the 550 motor I'm using if I loosen it. If I get the basket setup and can loosen it (without destroying the pads) will that help rear traction? or are you guys doing it to help with drivetrain shock?
Anything else you can think of that will help?
Changes before the race...
1. Installed AE swaybars front and rear (had been running bars I put together from touring car parts). 2.0mm in the front and 1.5mm in the rear.
2. Raised the rear inner ball studs by 3mm.
3. Moved rear hubs forward.
Results...
Laptimes pretty much the same as before. The truck still has much less rear grip than I would like (and than my Jammin' had). I still can not get back into the throttle as soon as I would like and I have the throttle end point turned down to 85% to keep me from buzzing the rear tires off the turns and down the straight.
Durning the race day I glued up some kit tires and put them on the front. The truck instantly started pushing. I dialed in more dual rate and it was better. Still less rear grip on-throttle than I'd like, though.
Ideas for next race day....
1. Thicker diff fluid up front (currently at 30K)
2. Overdrive pulley up front
I currently have the rear slipper locked because I know it will destroy the pads with the 550 motor I'm using if I loosen it. If I get the basket setup and can loosen it (without destroying the pads) will that help rear traction? or are you guys doing it to help with drivetrain shock?
Anything else you can think of that will help?
07-11-2011, 07:17 AM
#4461
I installed sways for the first time for yesterday's race at my local track. Took them back off after the first heat. I guess my track is too soft/loamy/bumpy for them to do anything but hurt performance based on how I have the truck already setup otherwise. Oh well, I'll keep them in my parts bin ready for the hard packed clay track that's a little over an hour away.
07-11-2011, 08:20 AM
#4462
What gearing are you running? Today was my first day with my sc104x4 and im trying the 540 set-up. Ive been doing alot of gearing testing started with a 21 and ended at a 15/93 and my temps stopped going down it appeared after 6 minutes of driving hard they are at 180-185.
Im running an lrp x12 octa 5.5 with an optional 12.5mm rotor, im going to try the 13mm rotor(didnt realize there was one when i ordered the 12.5mm rotor)
Its super fast and still plenty of torque until it gets hot.
Got a pair of associated fans i may install in front of the motor but would have to do some dremeling.
Im running an lrp x12 octa 5.5 with an optional 12.5mm rotor, im going to try the 13mm rotor(didnt realize there was one when i ordered the 12.5mm rotor)
Its super fast and still plenty of torque until it gets hot.
Got a pair of associated fans i may install in front of the motor but would have to do some dremeling.
07-11-2011, 09:35 AM
#4467
a 540 can should not be smacking a 550 can in the mouth so easily, let alone a 10.5 vs a 5.5.
does anyone have any suggestions on gearing or esc settings? i am thinking about going up to a 15t pinion since a lot of people are running a 15/62 on 5.5 in this thread. you guys think if i pulled the timing off the esc instead of the motor and went up a tooth on the pinion it would help?
does anyone have any suggestions on gearing or esc settings? i am thinking about going up to a 15t pinion since a lot of people are running a 15/62 on 5.5 in this thread. you guys think if i pulled the timing off the esc instead of the motor and went up a tooth on the pinion it would help?
The top dog at the main track I race at here is running a 9.5 or 10.5 540 and kicking all our butts.... in a 5 minutes main, he is nearly hitting 8 laps, where most of us are struggling to get past 6 laps...
550= more torque, more accelleration (usually just more wheel spin), less speed, less heat....
540= less torque, less accelleration, more speed, more heat....
That being said, my 5.5T SC4x with 16/62 gearing and timing profile 2 is as fast as he is down the main straight... I just cannot drive....
07-11-2011, 09:55 AM
#4468
What BlueGlowBoy posted gives me some hope but I'm wondering what I can do to reduce temps on my setup. Now, I've only been running the truck onroad so far (hope to hit the track this weekend) but my motor temps seem through the roof. (200)
Setup is a 8.5 540 Novak on a Havok Sport (Pretty sure that is what it is) running 19/93. That's running for probably about 10 minutes or more (until the pack dies.)
I'm wondering if gearing down would help, if it's because how long I'm running the truck, if it's because I'm on pavment, or if I just need to throw a fan on the motor (got one on the SC).
Still really new to the whole brushless thing. Brushed motor I'd just throw on a smaller pinion and call it done. LOL
Setup is a 8.5 540 Novak on a Havok Sport (Pretty sure that is what it is) running 19/93. That's running for probably about 10 minutes or more (until the pack dies.)
I'm wondering if gearing down would help, if it's because how long I'm running the truck, if it's because I'm on pavment, or if I just need to throw a fan on the motor (got one on the SC).
Still really new to the whole brushless thing. Brushed motor I'd just throw on a smaller pinion and call it done. LOL
07-11-2011, 10:12 AM
#4469
What BlueGlowBoy posted gives me some hope but I'm wondering what I can do to reduce temps on my setup. Now, I've only been running the truck onroad so far (hope to hit the track this weekend) but my motor temps seem through the roof. (200)
Setup is a 8.5 540 Novak on a Havok Sport (Pretty sure that is what it is) running 19/93. That's running for probably about 10 minutes or more (until the pack dies.)
I'm wondering if gearing down would help, if it's because how long I'm running the truck, if it's because I'm on pavment, or if I just need to throw a fan on the motor (got one on the SC).
Still really new to the whole brushless thing. Brushed motor I'd just throw on a smaller pinion and call it done. LOL
Setup is a 8.5 540 Novak on a Havok Sport (Pretty sure that is what it is) running 19/93. That's running for probably about 10 minutes or more (until the pack dies.)
I'm wondering if gearing down would help, if it's because how long I'm running the truck, if it's because I'm on pavment, or if I just need to throw a fan on the motor (got one on the SC).
Still really new to the whole brushless thing. Brushed motor I'd just throw on a smaller pinion and call it done. LOL
07-11-2011, 10:20 AM
#4470
If you're doing nothing but speed runs for 10 minutes straight, it could be that you are over-revving the motor...
I don't have any experience with REAL 540 cans in this truck....ran a Mabuchi 540RS to break it in, but that was it.... Also, my buddy was running a Novak 5.5T 550 in it, and his temps were "really high' during practice....until the race director talked to him and noticed that he was running 18-20 minutes straight....which will add a lot more heat than a 5 minutes qualifier or 7 minute main....
I say, get it on a real track and even if it is in practice, find out how long they run their mains for, and set a timer for that length of time....go and finish your last lap after your timer expires, then run down off the stand and temp the motor.... 200+ after 10 minutes might only be 170 after 7 and 160 after 5 and you might be OK...
Also, Krio is right, that super high traction will add a lot of temps too. We were running 14/62 on short grass and getting 150+ temps on our 550s...once I got it on the clay track, I was able to gear it up to 16/62 and was still barely hitting 150 in the mains.
I don't have any experience with REAL 540 cans in this truck....ran a Mabuchi 540RS to break it in, but that was it.... Also, my buddy was running a Novak 5.5T 550 in it, and his temps were "really high' during practice....until the race director talked to him and noticed that he was running 18-20 minutes straight....which will add a lot more heat than a 5 minutes qualifier or 7 minute main....
I say, get it on a real track and even if it is in practice, find out how long they run their mains for, and set a timer for that length of time....go and finish your last lap after your timer expires, then run down off the stand and temp the motor.... 200+ after 10 minutes might only be 170 after 7 and 160 after 5 and you might be OK...
Also, Krio is right, that super high traction will add a lot of temps too. We were running 14/62 on short grass and getting 150+ temps on our 550s...once I got it on the clay track, I was able to gear it up to 16/62 and was still barely hitting 150 in the mains.