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-   -   SC10 4x4 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/511493-sc10-4x4-thread.html)

ffpm46 06-30-2011 04:58 AM

What 540 can turn motors are people using with any success?

FRONTI3R 06-30-2011 06:19 AM

Balancing my SC10 4x4
 

Originally Posted by PanicRev (Post 9323672)
I have added the 21g to the front left but the car is still grossly out of balance even running the 550 ballistic. I really don't want to add several ounces to my svelte sc10.

I have it setup now by ride height and I'm ignoring the collars. Tonight is track night so I'll know soon if it's going to do anything wierd.

I had my SC10 4x4 balanced last month - Here is what the shop said after they balanced it:

Basicaly what I do is I have a jig made up that is perfectly level and straight it has a 16 though sheet of aluminum mounts on it`s edge. You mark the centre line of the chassis, place the car on the edge of the aluminum and add weight until the car balances on it. (Sounds simple but you wouldn`t believe the amount of time it takes to get one of these things to balance on that thin of `knife edge".)
Don't forget that your Lipo actualy sits closer to the centre then the motor, esc, and reciever. They hang way out past the centre of the car and the further you go away from centre the less weight you need to throw it out of balance or bring it into balance.

Your truck is kinda tricky the chassis is so narrow and there is no place to put weight right in the centre line (Forward and after) to place the weight due to the battery. So I ended up placing wieght in the front and back on the right side (equal amounts so it does not affect the forward and after balance in your current set up). It was REALLY heavy on the left side. Associated could have easily corrected it by making the chassis 2.8 mm wider and pushing the battery tray out to the right by 2.6 mm and it would have been almost perfect.
But having said that ... it`s bang on now! The weight was added ahead of your Lipo to the right of the servo and after your Lipo to the right. It was tricky but it`s done.

Matt Howard 06-30-2011 06:38 AM


Originally Posted by ffpm46 (Post 9326639)
What 540 can turn motors are people using with any success?

I ran a 7.5 on an indoor track with good success, I've heard of others running anything from a 5.5 up to an 8.5

marksp 06-30-2011 07:31 AM


Originally Posted by ffpm46 (Post 9326639)
What 540 can turn motors are people using with any success?

Castle 1410 1Y 3800kv

JFuel11 06-30-2011 07:38 AM

5.5 Turn works great
 
I was running a 5.5 turn motor for a few weeks and the temps were decenct around 160s but I upgraded to a 550 motor 4.5 turn motor for more power and cooler running.

drt_racer5 06-30-2011 07:40 AM

Mine was the opposite. on my scales the left side (reciever esc side) was lighter. depending on your gear I have seen it be off as little as 2 oz and as high as 7oz.



Originally Posted by FRONTI3R (Post 9326883)
I had my SC10 4x4 balanced last month - Here is what the shop said after they balanced it:

Basicaly what I do is I have a jig made up that is perfectly level and straight it has a 16 though sheet of aluminum mounts on it`s edge. You mark the centre line of the chassis, place the car on the edge of the aluminum and add weight until the car balances on it. (Sounds simple but you wouldn`t believe the amount of time it takes to get one of these things to balance on that thin of `knife edge".)
Don't forget that your Lipo actualy sits closer to the centre then the motor, esc, and reciever. They hang way out past the centre of the car and the further you go away from centre the less weight you need to throw it out of balance or bring it into balance.

Your truck is kinda tricky the chassis is so narrow and there is no place to put weight right in the centre line (Forward and after) to place the weight due to the battery. So I ended up placing wieght in the front and back on the right side (equal amounts so it does not affect the forward and after balance in your current set up). It was REALLY heavy on the left side. Associated could have easily corrected it by making the chassis 2.8 mm wider and pushing the battery tray out to the right by 2.6 mm and it would have been almost perfect.
But having said that ... it`s bang on now! The weight was added ahead of your Lipo to the right of the servo and after your Lipo to the right. It was tricky but it`s done.


drt_racer5 06-30-2011 07:44 AM

I would go down to at least a 14 especially if it is a tight indoor. I use a 15 on a 1/8 scale size outdoor and run 140-150 we have another guy who runs 16 and if it is hot out he will hit 160+



Originally Posted by BigRon (Post 9326333)
Guys, I'm running the mmp w/Orion Race v2 6.5T geared at 16/93 on a tight indoor med grip track. After about 7-8 mins the motor is coming off at around 195. The esc is barely warm enough for the fan to kick on. A 16 tooth pinion is what was suggested in the manual. Which direction should I go to bring temps down a little?


Racecrafter 06-30-2011 07:50 AM


Originally Posted by ffpm46 (Post 9326639)
What 540 can turn motors are people using with any success?

Fantom 7.5 ION3 geared 18/93 just about everywhere I go.

Tekin RS Pro ESC.

1Fastpede 06-30-2011 07:53 AM


Originally Posted by drt_racer5 (Post 9327195)
Mine was the opposite. on my scales the left side (reciever esc side) was lighter. depending on your gear I have seen it be off as little as 2 oz and as high as 7oz.

Mine with a 550 needed 2.5oz next to servo to balance out, but it didn't fly straight after that... So i removed 1.25oz and left 1.25(35g) next to the servo that made it fly straight.

JayL 06-30-2011 10:39 AM

Guys running the Tekno alum hexes, I'm looking at you Matt H. :) :

what shims did you use and where did you put them?

my wheels feel wobbly after using the stock shims between the bearing and hex

I played around with the traxxas teflon ones too, felt same

slowtruggy 06-30-2011 11:00 AM

I only have the front sway bars so far haven't got the rear ones yet should I put them on or wait til I get the rear ones?

PanicRev 06-30-2011 11:12 AM


I have added the 21g to the front left but the car is still grossly out of balance even running the 550 ballistic. I really don't want to add several ounces to my svelte sc10.

I have it setup now by ride height and I'm ignoring the (shock) collars. Tonight is track night so I'll know soon if it's going to do anything wierd.
I also added 4mm front and 2mm rear under the inner camber balls. -1.5 camber on all four corners and 1 degree on the towout. Ran my fastest laps since I've had the truck. It feels really good, very predictable, so I'm just going to ignore the uneven shock collars and keep the chassis level.

I'm running indoors w/ good traction.

bajabro 06-30-2011 11:13 AM

Woohoo..... going to go run mine for the first time today.

Yeti AS3 06-30-2011 11:16 AM


Originally Posted by JayL (Post 9327994)
Guys running the Tekno alum hexes, I'm looking at you Matt H. :) :

what shims did you use and where did you put them?

my wheels feel wobbly after using the stock shims between the bearing and hex

I played around with the traxxas teflon ones too, felt same

Just put mine on too :) Two .2mm shims per side up front behind drive pin (that hex goes over). In the rear I used three .2mm shims per side. Keep in mind that the axle will have play in and out until the hex is on. The drive pin sits deep in the hex and this tightens things up when installed.

tazfam2 06-30-2011 11:19 AM

I have heard that the castle 4 pole is a helluva motor . Has anyone ever run that motor in a sc10 4x4 with a tekin rx8 and if so what did you gear it at?
I am running it on a large outdoor track made for 1/8 scales


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