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-   -   SC10 4x4 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/511493-sc10-4x4-thread.html)

sbales 07-02-2011 09:16 PM


Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie (Post 9337829)
Uptravel needs to be limited so the dogbone doesn't bind in the drive cup. That's what those little clips that came in the shock bag are for :)

The clips in the bag are the front shock or rear down travel limiters, fuel tubing works great as the up-travel limit material.


:)

T-BirdJunkie 07-02-2011 09:19 PM


Originally Posted by sbales (Post 9338108)
The clips in the bag are the front shock or rear down travel limiters, fuel tubing works great as the up-travel limit material.


:)

Ah, sweet.

ThunderbirdJunkie will continue to use them as uptravel limiters until they fall out. He hates unscrewing shock ends:lol:
Question:
Has anybody successfully bolted a 1/8 motor into one of these?

JEFFs SC10 07-02-2011 10:27 PM


Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie (Post 9337829)
Uptravel needs to be limited so the dogbone doesn't bind in the drive cup. That's what those little clips that came in the shock bag are for :)

When they bind up do they make a crunching noise?

T-BirdJunkie 07-02-2011 10:31 PM


Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10 (Post 9338255)
When they bind up do they make a crunching noise?

Dunno, never noticed it.

jpure009 07-03-2011 12:17 AM

REAR CRUNCHING NOISE
 
I was having the crunching noise after my build coming from the rear diff/rear slipper area. For 4 days sitting on the stand after putting in the electronics&I could not figure out what it was. It would make the sound as I accelerated on the trigger.
I took apart the whole rear of the car and took apart the diff. Everything seemed fine, so I put everything back 1 screw at a time, while running the motor connected to the slipper/diff, to see if the noise continued. After the whole process the noise went away&it sounded fine. I never found out what the noise was, but i figured it was binding of the rear transmission.?.? So i am keeping all the screws holding the rear diff/motor plate snug only/not tight!!
U definitely have to take the rear apart&rebuild it.

GL
THX

zenbonzakura 07-03-2011 12:22 AM

hey guys ive just brought a sidewinder 4600kv brushless combo what pinion should i run on it

murky123 07-03-2011 01:04 AM


Originally Posted by racer1812 (Post 9336874)
outdrive wobble, it's simply in the design IMO, not on purpose for sure but the outdrive has an o-ring in it that rides IN the bushing in the diff. Personally I'm not going to try and get rid of the wobble ATM. If I see a huge wear isssue over time on the diff gears then I'll worry about it...
Tolerences can only be so tight when you run an o-ring on a shaft IN a bushing, especially with stuff this small..

same thought here. I do not think it has any to do with uptravel bla bla bla.
becouse the wobble will be there with stock setup aswell. so it is a design flaw.

I also leave it for what it is. but because of the wobble I need to refill the diff much more often, and that is not a easy task

chumanji 07-03-2011 01:04 AM

If there a wheel hex adapter for this truck to use 1/8th scale tires?

w00kie 07-03-2011 01:36 AM


Originally Posted by jpure009 (Post 9338443)
I was having the crunching noise after my build coming from the rear diff/rear slipper area. For 4 days sitting on the stand after putting in the electronics&I could not figure out what it was. It would make the sound as I accelerated on the trigger.
I took apart the whole rear of the car and took apart the diff. Everything seemed fine, so I put everything back 1 screw at a time, while running the motor connected to the slipper/diff, to see if the noise continued. After the whole process the noise went away&it sounded fine. I never found out what the noise was, but i figured it was binding of the rear transmission.?.? So i am keeping all the screws holding the rear diff/motor plate snug only/not tight!!
U definitely have to take the rear apart&rebuild it.

GL
THX



Your SOUND could have been one of the screws holding the motor plate onto the rear diff, binding on the slipper just a little bit.

the first time i put mine together, i had mine too tight and it wouldn't move without some loud noises, i loosened the slipper off. looked at the metal pad and saw a gouge in it, so i put the screw in looser and its all good now.

Could someone please explain to me how adjusting roll centre fixed the trucking wanting to traction roll on fast sweepers.

Would i just add roughly 3-5 mm spacers under the inside camber links front and rear.

could i also stand my shocks up a bit. to allow them to have more leverage on the arms.

any help would be appreciated. If you could please pm me a response that would be better, as its a little hard to check this thread often.

thanks.

JEFFs SC10 07-03-2011 06:05 AM

I guess lack of sleep makes ya loopy. it was my pinion gear. :lol: I fixed it but I still hear it skip a couple teeth. The mesh is hard to set, 1 too hair close and its binding. Oh well for the most part problem is fixed. Now to have fun with this thing!

kromesoldier 07-03-2011 09:44 AM


Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie (Post 9338118)
Ah, sweet.

ThunderbirdJunkie will continue to use them as uptravel limiters until they fall out. He hates unscrewing shock ends:lol:
Question:
Has anybody successfully bolted a 1/8 motor into one of these?

Someone sent me a pic of an 1/8 castle motor but the chassis was really cut up

I have the 1415 in which is more than enough power and you can still move for pinions

kromesoldier 07-03-2011 09:49 AM


Originally Posted by FrancoisTX (Post 9337844)
Actually in have 3.5 and doesn t slippe so maybe release a little bit

I was at 3.5 mm. And backed it off to 3. But like everyone else said. It's based on your track surface and your equipment

omaha_racing 07-03-2011 11:01 AM

So I am looking at getting one of these. Everyone at my local track has the Losi, and I want to be different. Has anyone noticed and major wear items yet, and what has a tendency to break first? Also has anyone had a hard time getting a 550 motor to fit in the truck? Also would their be enough room on the electronics tray to make a RX8 fit without any problem? Thanks for the input!!

kromesoldier 07-03-2011 11:17 AM


Originally Posted by omaha_racing (Post 9339834)
So I am looking at getting one of these. Everyone at my local track has the Losi, and I want to be different. Has anyone noticed and major wear items yet, and what has a tendency to break first? Also has anyone had a hard time getting a 550 motor to fit in the truck? Also would their be enough room on the electronics tray to make a RX8 fit without any problem? Thanks for the input!!

I haven't broke anything. I guess it all depends on how clean you run. 550 motors will fit. I'm running the 1415 castle 4 pole and it fits with a little sanding. But it's bigger than the 550 cans. Great truck so far.

sbales 07-03-2011 12:49 PM

3 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by sbales (Post 9338108)
The clips in the bag are the front shock or rear down travel limiters, fuel tubing works great as the up-travel limit material.


:)

What I found! Problem for my truck was Arms hitting out-drive and putting pressure forcing drive cup into non-normal rotation angle, Inside I found shim washers grooved and concave from sun gear drive pin digging into them and almost dry, I did fill them with 5k during built and greased the orings. My fix was to turn down 1 mm off new outdrives, I also added another thin shim washer to the mix, grease new o rings real good, diff cases were fine, was expecting the bushing casting to be deformed, all good, now I have spares. I used fuel tubing as up travel limiters and it works as intended, I cut mine 8 mm and put on Cavalieri setup and truck handled great, could not tell up-traveled was limited, I did run down a Losi on the last lap. Front end was minor as only dog-bones rubbed in out-drives, fuel tubing all around.
This was the only problem found, Shes a keeper.

:nod:

top shims are from front diff, 2 damaged ones are rear.


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