SC10 4x4 Thread
#3826
has anyone stumbled across a real solution for the outdrive wobble on the diffs? I read several pages back to rebuild them and be generous with the black grease on the o-rings for the outdrives. I replaced the diff covers and used a bunch of black grease but there is still a slight wobble. does this mean that frequent service will be necessary? that's gonna suck. i do have the grooves where the driveshaft has been hitting the outdrive cups. i put some fuel tubing on the shock shaft and turned the bottom out 3 turns. hopefully that will reduce some of the upward stroke.
anyhow. still loving the truck. not loving my job though. it keeps me from driving this truck. i might get a little spunk this week and race it for the first time.
ben
anyhow. still loving the truck. not loving my job though. it keeps me from driving this truck. i might get a little spunk this week and race it for the first time.
ben
#3828
ASC91170. Same material but a lot more surface area. Many are using one of these on the outside of the spur only which drives the rear diff. This is used primarily with 550 size motors because of the increased torque. I'm using 2 of these because of the amount of tension required to keep the slipper from slipping. It's a tuning option you can experiment with depending on available traction and your preference.
#3829
I encourage others to check their front arms. I have been running sway bars so I have a bolt in the hole and my arms still bent bad on both sides. Not equally of course but they did get twisted. Not sure if boiling the arms will help make the stiffer. Could change the way it works but so does being twisted.
Going to take the rear arms off next, hopefully I don't find the same.
Going to take the rear arms off next, hopefully I don't find the same.
#3830
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,974
From: Norwood, OH...and CCRCR and The OhioRCFactory
I encourage others to check their front arms. I have been running sway bars so I have a bolt in the hole and my arms still bent bad on both sides. Not equally of course but they did get twisted. Not sure if boiling the arms will help make the stiffer. Could change the way it works but so does being twisted.
Going to take the rear arms off next, hopefully I don't find the same.
Going to take the rear arms off next, hopefully I don't find the same.
#3831
I encourage others to check their front arms. I have been running sway bars so I have a bolt in the hole and my arms still bent bad on both sides. Not equally of course but they did get twisted. Not sure if boiling the arms will help make the stiffer. Could change the way it works but so does being twisted.
Going to take the rear arms off next, hopefully I don't find the same.
Going to take the rear arms off next, hopefully I don't find the same.
#3832
Gonna take my sc10 4x4 to the local outdoor track for the first time since its reopening this weekend...... I'm used to indoor tight clay tracks so this will be a challenge for me running on a dirt 1/8th scale track......... Any suggestions on setups? Thanks
#3833
#3834
has anyone stumbled across a real solution for the outdrive wobble on the diffs? I read several pages back to rebuild them and be generous with the black grease on the o-rings for the outdrives. I replaced the diff covers and used a bunch of black grease but there is still a slight wobble. does this mean that frequent service will be necessary? that's gonna suck. i do have the grooves where the driveshaft has been hitting the outdrive cups. i put some fuel tubing on the shock shaft and turned the bottom out 3 turns. hopefully that will reduce some of the upward stroke.
I also need a proper solution for the outdrive wobble.
The wobble is getting worse and as result I have to keep refilling the diffs.
#3835
Duh, i forgot about the sway bars because i made my own, they helped out alot though, another must!
Question, what batteries ae you guys running? My gens ace 40c 5000mah and my nano-tech 25-50c 6000mah batteries ar getting hot, 120-130 degs. It seems that the tenshock and the castle pulls some amps?!
Im looking at the promatch 60c 6200mah batteries, anyone try these?
Question, what batteries ae you guys running? My gens ace 40c 5000mah and my nano-tech 25-50c 6000mah batteries ar getting hot, 120-130 degs. It seems that the tenshock and the castle pulls some amps?!
Im looking at the promatch 60c 6200mah batteries, anyone try these?

#3836
I encourage others to check their front arms. I have been running sway bars so I have a bolt in the hole and my arms still bent bad on both sides. Not equally of course but they did get twisted. Not sure if boiling the arms will help make the stiffer. Could change the way it works but so does being twisted.
Going to take the rear arms off next, hopefully I don't find the same.
Going to take the rear arms off next, hopefully I don't find the same.
Hasn't happened to mine yet nock on wood.
#3837
SaMe here. I haven't had any arm issues. And we run on a large 1/8 scale track. Not saying that you don't have a legit issue. But I wouldn't know what to advise on. Have you left the truck in the sunlight or in a car where the extreme heat could have wArped those arms? Just asking. Cuz I saw your pics and it just looks bad.
#3838
Although pricey.. The cool thing about Thunder Power too.. Once they start to puff(if they ever do) or you notice ANY change in performance from the pack.. Up to one year.. You can mail them to TP with the receipt from your purchase, and they will mail you a new one! I just did it with 3 45C 2650's and they mailed me back 3 new 45C 2700mah.
#3839
As for the wobble in the outdrives, I believe its only in the rear, right? I believe it has to do with the rear a-arms hitting the cup, check it out. I'm running the rear shocks with 4mm of the limiter clips. I have the rear backed out 3 turns no boot and emulsion style. When I did this I noticed the shock compresses enough that the arm would press into the outdrive. Since I put in the limiters, my outdrives seem to not wobble.



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