SC10 4x4 Thread
#4576
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (99)
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 803
From: South Boston, VA
I keep reading about traction roll and the use of washers under the ball stud.
I run on a very dry, dusty and slick track and traction roll isn't an issue. Could I still gain any benefits or disadvantages by running washers under the ball studs
I run on a very dry, dusty and slick track and traction roll isn't an issue. Could I still gain any benefits or disadvantages by running washers under the ball studs
#4578
you'll probably actually want the extra lean from the stock setup in those conditions. The washers under the ballstuds keep the truck from leaning so much by lowering the roll center.
#4580
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (99)
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 803
From: South Boston, VA
I know not everyone has big sockets in their tool box but...
I took a 1 1/2 socket on the outside of the cover a 1 1/8 on the inside of the cover and ran a long bolt/nut through the the sockets and the center slipper adjusting hole in the cover. I tighten the bolt and it pushes the little socket in to the big one coning the cover out. Put some heat too it with my wifes super hair dryer and then let it cool. Makes a perfect round bulge in the cover for the basket to clear.
I took a 1 1/2 socket on the outside of the cover a 1 1/8 on the inside of the cover and ran a long bolt/nut through the the sockets and the center slipper adjusting hole in the cover. I tighten the bolt and it pushes the little socket in to the big one coning the cover out. Put some heat too it with my wifes super hair dryer and then let it cool. Makes a perfect round bulge in the cover for the basket to clear.
#4581
So for maximum grip (and body roll) you would run longest camber links with no spacers correct? I've been running spacers using the inner ball stud mount, but after reading stuff on here it seems I could have accomplished nearly the same thing by running short links with no spacers.
I just got sway bars in and plan on installing them before a big race this weekend. I'm thinking I should remove the spacers and leave the links long to keep some grip.
I just got sway bars in and plan on installing them before a big race this weekend. I'm thinking I should remove the spacers and leave the links long to keep some grip.
#4582
#4583
Tech Regular
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 347
Stripped the servo horn today.
100% sure I used the correct one. 25 spline for a Team Orion servo. Does anyone know if there is an aluminum one that will fit?
Also, what is the quickest way to change the servo horn? It seams that I have to tear down the whole front to get access to it...
100% sure I used the correct one. 25 spline for a Team Orion servo. Does anyone know if there is an aluminum one that will fit?Also, what is the quickest way to change the servo horn? It seams that I have to tear down the whole front to get access to it...
#4585
you can do each end independantly. I'm running 4mm under the front and none under the rear on a watered track. If the track isn't watered it has less traction so I run 2mm under the rear to give the rear a bit more "bite".
#4586
So for maximum grip (and body roll) you would run longest camber links with no spacers correct? I've been running spacers using the inner ball stud mount, but after reading stuff on here it seems I could have accomplished nearly the same thing by running short links with no spacers.
I just got sway bars in and plan on installing them before a big race this weekend. I'm thinking I should remove the spacers and leave the links long to keep some grip.
I just got sway bars in and plan on installing them before a big race this weekend. I'm thinking I should remove the spacers and leave the links long to keep some grip.
If you start rolling too much and picking up your inside tire, you just cut your overall contact patch on that end of the truck by half. Not good. It's about balance.
There's kind of four stages of grip. Stage one...not enough weight transfer and the end of the car "washes out" (Push if it's in the front, spin if it's in the rear). Then there is balanced, the end of the car is stable. Then you have slightly too much weight transfer. The inside tires lifts or gets too light, reducing the contact patch, and that end washes out again. This is just shy of the last stage, a traction roll. Too much weight transfers and the vehicle flips over.
You want to find that happy second stage where the end of the truck is stable.
I would leave your setup alone and just add the sway bars and see what it does. Then remove the washers but leave the sway bars on and see what it does. Proper setup can't be suggested...you have to try different things and see how it feels to YOU. Remember, only make ONE change at a time. Removing ball stud washers AND adding swaybars all at once is a big no-no as you don't know how each change affected the truck.
Originally Posted by Matt Howard
you can do each end independantly. I'm running 4mm under the front and none under the rear on a watered track. If the track isn't watered it has less traction so I run 2mm under the rear to give the rear a bit more "bite".
Just curious if you've tried that and what your results were.
#4590
Stripped the servo horn today.
100% sure I used the correct one. 25 spline for a Team Orion servo. Does anyone know if there is an aluminum one that will fit?
Also, what is the quickest way to change the servo horn? It seams that I have to tear down the whole front to get access to it...
100% sure I used the correct one. 25 spline for a Team Orion servo. Does anyone know if there is an aluminum one that will fit?Also, what is the quickest way to change the servo horn? It seams that I have to tear down the whole front to get access to it...

Thats really the only way to get to it... ive broke the steering links in a race and fixed it within 15 minutes.
.its all about getting to know the car so every time you get faster and faster putting in back together!



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