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Thanks Cain. On our track it does help if you have good steering and can get thru the corners fast. The SC10 4x4 seems from reading to like smaller sized tracks and indoor tracks better than outdoors. Good for me as I only race indoors anymore. Belts from my experiance accelerate smoother overall which makes them nicer to drive.
Only other question is about the center diff some of you guys talk about. I think its after market but wondering about that. Again my track is indoors and the last time I saw a FT SC10 4x4 race at our track was one of my buddies that use to race for Associated. Truck was super fast, turned quickly and was really hooked up. He hated the truck but did he wheel that thing and smoke everyone. I remember him using a 540 sized motor (4.5 is what he ran) |
Originally Posted by Rc-007
(Post 13284631)
Would you guys choose a sc10 over the Losi for this track, or no?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ps969f6ca6.jpg |
I bought my FT SC10 4X4 about a year ago. Ran it a few times, got a little frustrated, and put it away until recently. I have been making adjustments, largest going from a stick pack set-up, side, to a square battery set up, center. Big improvement! Really the only thing I am unhappy with is rear traction exiting corners. The truck wants to spin out exiting corners.
Rough set up: Front Diff 7K Rear Diff 5K Shocks F 35W, R 30W Clicker locked Proline Suburbs/Blue Closed Cell on all 4 Tekin 4000K Motor Other than that set-up per build instructions Track Medium traction clay Any Suggestions? Oh, this is my first 4X4. |
Originally Posted by brian6674
(Post 13314927)
I bought my FT SC10 4X4 about a year ago. Ran it a few times, got a little frustrated, and put it away until recently. I have been making adjustments, largest going from a stick pack set-up, side, to a square battery set up, center. Big improvement! Really the only thing I am unhappy with is rear traction exiting corners. The truck wants to spin out exiting corners.
Rough set up: Front Diff 7K Rear Diff 5K Shocks F 35W, R 30W Clicker locked Proline Suburbs/Blue Closed Cell on all 4 Tekin 4000K Motor Other than that set-up per build instructions Track Medium traction clay Any Suggestions? Oh, this is my first 4X4. Kevin |
Originally Posted by brian6674
(Post 13314927)
I bought my FT SC10 4X4 about a year ago. Ran it a few times, got a little frustrated, and put it away until recently. I have been making adjustments, largest going from a stick pack set-up, side, to a square battery set up, center. Big improvement! Really the only thing I am unhappy with is rear traction exiting corners. The truck wants to spin out exiting corners.
Rough set up: Front Diff 7K Rear Diff 5K Shocks F 35W, R 30W Clicker locked Proline Suburbs/Blue Closed Cell on all 4 Tekin 4000K Motor Other than that set-up per build instructions Track Medium traction clay Any Suggestions? Oh, this is my first 4X4. Another item would be the M2C Rear toe in block for more toe. those two items really helped getting the rear end planted and overall performance. |
Yes still the stock slipper.
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cdiff will help alot
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How does that cdiff hold up in moist/almost mucky conditions?? Looks somewhat exposed to me.
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well. i have my front and rear dust cover on(no mid). every once and a while i take it apart ant clean every thing and put fresh grease in.
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Have you tried the rear camber link mod? We run with a carbon c tower flipped upside down on the rear hub carrier and raise the inner camber link 7-8mm.
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Originally Posted by gatorage
(Post 13289910)
part 1 you need 12mm ballstud. i think 10mm works to.
part 2you need a taller hub to make your camber links even so you don't get crazy camber gains part 3 buy shims that = 8mm what it does it try to fix a bad design truck... there to much weight in the rear... so this mod lower the roll center!!! by doing this it make the chassis roll less (move weight around less in the rear)... kinda like sway-bar but it does not restrict the suspension movement(so you would keep more grip). |
Originally Posted by gatorage
(Post 13289910)
part 1 you need 12mm ballstud(http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...Ballstud-Set-2) i think 10mm works to.
part 2you need a taller hub to make your camber links even so you don't get crazy camber gains (http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...-C-Tower-Set-2) part 3 buy shims that = 8mm what it does it try to fix a bad design truck... there to much weight in the rear... so this mod lower the roll center!!! by doing this it make the chassis roll less (move weight around less in the rear)... kinda like sway-bar but it does not restrict the suspension movement(so you would keep more grip). This mod only works on loose tracks and will lead to traction rolling on high bite tracks which is why those who try and run this mod on high grip have to lower the front roll center to take some bite out of the front. Raising the outside links raises roll center not lower. The longer your links the more body roll you will get which will lead to more lateral grip. short links tend to rotate more. A sway bar also is not a good way to compare the 8mm mod, a sway bar limits roll and takes grip away because it takes away weight transfer, This is why this trucks likes a really stiff front sway bar and low front roll center because due to the placement of the motor it tends to transfer lots of weight towards the front on turn entry. The easiest way to explain the feel of the 8mm mod is that the rear tends to follow the front around but in control. But will start to grab after its initial movement (traction roll) so in short:
By definition raising the inside and outside lower roll center so on a fast sweeper the rear of the truck will drift and then grab and that usually ends up rolling over. On a short low speed tight track it may work ok but not really needed. |
I have the M2C toe block and have wound up snapping 4 hinge pins(average one a race day) and I'm tired of DNFng the mains. Has anyone else encountered this problem? There isnt any binding of the arms at all, just both ends snap at the fillet every time. Anyone know of a solution?
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