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-   -   SC10 4x4 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/511493-sc10-4x4-thread.html)

superslow 08-21-2012 09:47 PM

hey guys i was wondering if you can sky the sc10 4x4 i have a factory team running a rx8 with a pro 4 4600, and orion 90c saddle pack. i have no weight added. but i lost to the scte because they were skying the big 1/8 scale double jump. i wanted to finish the race but it seemed over some moderate jumps 3ft air or so i was tilting from wind in the body or felt unstable. i dont know how they do it. i hate adding weight because the one advantage is being nimble and accelerating.

turners dad 08-21-2012 09:49 PM

hey all, i just got a sc10 4x4, it's not new but was only raced a handfull of times by a friend of mine so it's set up pretty well.
last saturday was the first time i ever raced a 4x4 and man was it a blast!
it took a few laps to figure out if i was sideways in a turn i could just power on and it went where i pointed it....wow what a difference over 2wd sc.

the first heat i got 2nd, the 2 heat and a-main i bobbled and lawn darted it in the same section. i was running 2nd both times and when it happened the mmp shut down and had to reset, wow that cost me 15 secs (half a lap) but it seemed like forever. i ended up getting 3rd in the main after catching back up, it wasn't because i was the fastest driver but i made less mistakes than most others. it was a blast to say the least, can't wait to do it again.

i have been reading as much on this thread as i can every night and have about 200 pages under my belt so far, so much info, such limited reading time on my part.

now for the questions,
what is the center diff? is it the slipper setup
what is the 8mm mod?
how should i set the stock slipper clutch? set it on the ground and hit the throtal, watch the front end to see how much it raises?

my gear is a mmp, castle 4 pole 3,800 not sure the number, castle bec set at 6v, ace steering servo ds1015 airtronics m8/spektrum 2.4, bought from a fellow member here on rctech, gensace 5,300mah 65c stick pack

i need to shim the rear diff and i'm thinking 5k in the rear and 10,000 in the front, i was told to put the 19 tooth od gear up front, i am not looking forwards to pulling the diffs but they have to be taken care of...any hints other than a screw gun..lol

thanks for listening and any help/tips thrown my way

fq06 08-21-2012 10:13 PM


Originally Posted by superslow (Post 11121807)
hey guys i was wondering if you can sky the sc10 4x4 i have a factory team running a rx8 with a pro 4 4600, and orion 90c saddle pack. i have no weight added. but i lost to the scte because they were skying the big 1/8 scale double jump. i wanted to finish the race but it seemed over some moderate jumps 3ft air or so i was tilting from wind in the body or felt unstable. i dont know how they do it. i hate adding weight because the one advantage is being nimble and accelerating.

Running one of the super vented bodies? Did you cut most if not all of the vents out to help reduce parachute?

More weight helps in the air on big jumps, but you don't setup a car for one section of the track... unless you are losing a lot of time to the others there.

I have a heavy truck and like it.

fq06 08-21-2012 10:50 PM


Originally Posted by turners dad (Post 11121811)
i have been reading as much on this thread as i can every night and have about 200 pages under my belt so far, so much info, such limited reading time on my part.

thanks for listening and any help/tips thrown my way

what is the center diff? is it the slipper setup.
Center ball diff. Great but not necessary... depending on your taste I guess. What is it explanation here http://www.rctech.net/forum/10015740-post6.html

what is the 8mm mod?
Drive the truck for now and get used to it while you catch up on reading this thread to see if 8mm mod would help you. You should be reading within the past month or two, use search in this thread or google's probably better than rctech search.

how should i set the stock slipper clutch? set it on the ground and hit the throtal, watch the front end to see how much it raises?
At least get the garodisks from RCshox for the old school two pad slipper for now if not the C-Diff. Adjust to where you slip for the first few feet @ full throttle on the track you are at... traction control. Start with manual suggested slipper nut setting and adjust from there for the traction at your track.

Shim rear diff...
Do you have a few shock limiter clips under the rubber bumper on the shock shafts? You need them. 8mm total including rubber bumper.
Call AE and they will mail thicker diff shims at no cost. I think .3 thick is correct, but the .5 AE ones cost $0 to your door and one minute on the phone.

itchy b 08-22-2012 12:16 AM

Just tested the sc 4x4 out on the street after finally setting up the speedy and getting it up and ready for a shake down.
One thing i did notice though is that under hard acceleration off the mark the fully tightened clicker would click some.
Is there any way to get it fully locked without this happening?
Do i need to add a shim or 2 or get a harder spring or something like that?

RossNZ 08-22-2012 12:32 AM


Originally Posted by itchy b (Post 11122087)
Just tested the sc 4x4 out on the street after finally setting up the speedy and getting it up and ready for a shake down.
One thing i did notice though is that under hard acceleration off the mark the fully tightened clicker would click some.
Is there any way to get it fully locked without this happening?
Do i need to add a shim or 2 or get a harder spring or something like that?

About 500 page's ago people were super gluing them up, I've never had any issues with mine, just locked in down tight.

RossNZ 08-22-2012 12:46 AM


Originally Posted by twisted (Post 11121242)
are you the one doing the home made bottom chassis plate ?

Yeh but I'm sure plenty have done it to this truck before me, my thinking is if the Exotek works and lowers the COG, as well as adding weight, if the weight is under the plastic chassis it has to be that much better, there was a guy way back in the thread who made a steel plate under the front chassis and said it worked great, remember guys I only run on loose bumpy outdoor tracks, getting it back together soon, I may leave the MIP shock kit till later, done enough changes this week and will not get much track time before racing this week.

I will say picking the truck up from the center of the shock towers, it certainly feels "different" with the lower weight.

itchy b 08-22-2012 12:49 AM


Originally Posted by RossNZ (Post 11122110)
About 500 page's ago people were super gluing them up, I've never had any issues with mine, just locked in down tight.

Just checked mine and i could tighten it another 1/4 turn :)
I'll try that and see how it works.
Mustnt have tightened it up all the way i could ;):sweat:
Just thinking though, as its under acceleration, it might be the belt slipping a little.
As i understand it the clicker only clicks under breaking.
Im running the 19t up front so might have the belt set a little loose

itchy b 08-22-2012 01:06 AM

Just thought id add, what a pain in the rear to adjust the servo horn position:weird::sweat::D:lol:

BorackBasher 08-22-2012 07:59 AM


Originally Posted by itchy b (Post 11122152)
Just thought id add, what a pain in the rear to adjust the servo horn position:weird::sweat::D:lol:


thats why you set your servo horn before installing it.. and its not a pain either to get to it.. took me about 30mins to fix a servo saver..

Wild Cherry 08-22-2012 08:54 AM


Originally Posted by itchy b (Post 11122087)
Just tested the sc 4x4 out on the street after finally setting up the speedy and getting it up and ready for a shake down.
One thing i did notice though is that under hard acceleration off the mark the fully tightened clicker would click some.
Is there any way to get it fully locked without this happening?
Do i need to add a shim or 2 or get a harder spring or something like that?


Avoid gluing the part , its not necessary.....


We put in a brand new layout today @ TRCR .


Means my PINK Jc HI FLOW ?
Will be
bringing terror on the track soon !!!

vito 08-22-2012 08:57 AM

my 15 tooth will be here in the mail hope to try out tonight

Oasis 08-22-2012 09:49 AM


Originally Posted by Wild Cherry (Post 11123185)
Avoid gluing the part , its not necessary..

And why is this? I've NEVER read any set ups that used the front clicker..NEVER..why should I avoid gluing it?

Wild Cherry 08-22-2012 09:53 AM


Originally Posted by Oasis (Post 11123393)
And why is this? I've NEVER read any set ups that used the front clicker..NEVER..why should I avoid gluing it?

Because you will just ruin the
clicker and never be able to use it again ...

fq06 08-22-2012 09:57 AM

I've heard of a few people that have glued it without an issue.
I never had problems with it so I have not needed to test it, but if your using good CA glue I don't se how the part would be ruined other than you loose the clicker capability.


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