this might help but i run on a 1/8 outdoor track that slippery. so i have more weight than a indoor set-up and it in florida so its kinda hot... i run a 12t gear on a 4.5 550 in 10 min race it get kinda hot but all low turn motors do (still a little hotter then i like). if i race in door i would not need the speed... i would think a 11t gear would work the best indoors(keep the car cooler and should have more pop out the turns).

Hello everyone, I'm hoping someone could take the time to recommend some things for me. I used to own a RC10T3 and Losi XXX maybe 12-15 years ago. Once I stopped racing, I completely lost track of r/c racing. Now, the technology and vehicles are completely different. I would like to get back into R/C and I'm looking at the Sc10 4X4. The problem is, I have no idea what electronics to get or what is "the best" in the market right now. It's like starting all over again with a small knowledge base.

I will be racing on a small-medium size track outside San Antonio that doesn't appear to have a ton of traction. My questions are:

1) Why is the RC10 4X4 so cheap compared to the competitors like tekno or losi? Back in the day, all the top companies had similar pricing.

2) What motor would you recommend for the above track and why? Remember, I know nothing about the new technology.

3) What ESC and batteries are good?

Thanks in advance. My budget is not limited but I do wish to stick with mid-high level gear. It doesnt have to be cheap or the very very best. Thanks again.

I think a lot of it comes to demand. the SC10 4x4 for whatever reason doesn't appear to have the push that other brands are giving their 4x4 SCTs. it seems more like an afterthought at times as far as being raced, specially in conditions where its not in its element box stock like loose big track conditions.

I think a lot of what happened is that the class has moved to goal posts on what vehicle designs are used. stuff nowadays is like 1/8 buggy based and the sc10 4x4 seems like it was designed for a more 1/10 scale based setup.

Ironically, its one of the few vehicles (maybe the only one) from AE in the racing line that doesn't have the option of different rear toe settings which from my experience going aftermarket for that part, made a world of difference in traction.

Find out first what is legal at your track. If its pretty much up to 550s and 2S packs, you may find the 540 4 pole Tekin motors a great match as they are lighter and have great torque. Personally I liked that in my vehicle. But there are other motors out there that work well at various budgets.

Tekin RX8 gear is top of the line, but a bit more work to fit on the vehicle.

I had great luck with Speed Passion GT2.0 Pro ESC and its cheap.

For batteries, depends on configuration you go with but for saddles smc and promatch have great packs with great warranties.

Thanks for the reply.

1. How can you tell that a motor has good torque? Is there something in the specifications that I can look at?

I live in San Antonio and I am one of maybe 2 guys still runing this truck a Rchq I will send you my number in a pm if you need help seting it up plus I have a track ne'er the house to test

Hey 9turn, why doesn't anyone run the rc10. I was at RCHQ on Wednesday night watching some of the races btw.

Because no one out there Can tune it the way I can Just ask Elleit he runs the show out there

in general the 4 pole 540 and 550 motors have more torque than the 2 pole 550 motors. the 2 pole 550s depending on rotor thickness will have a variety of torque, thicker more torque but more drag brake effect. I think 12.5mm became kind of the standard now. novak at one time I believe had a 14mm option rotor that was like ultra torque.

Hi guys just purchased a slightly used modded sc10 4x4. I've done a lot of reading an jumping through this forum.... great job guys. My truck has the exotech lcg chassis , ft upgrade kit with the vts slipper, chassis brace, tower, saddle packs, an steering bar. I run on a high bite blue groove 1/10 scale outdoor track dusty I plan to hold off on the center diff an just try the front locker from exotech and of course the garodiscs curious about diff fluids? I'm running the hw 150amp sensored esc with a tekin pro4sc 4000kv. also does anyone use the underdrive overdrive with the front locker? and settings for the front clicker please I tried reading 10-15 page sections every few hundred pages an I did the search thing not a lot of luck answering all my questions. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Dale

The overdrive can be usefall but makes the car skittish on the strates

wish I had more info to help ya.

I can add that for me at least, in general 5K diff fluid in the rear felt "right" and appears to be quite common a starting place.

If the diffs were easier to get to I bet be more people trying to play with them.

Thanks guys... I think 5000 is going to go in the rear everyone seems to agree there, but as you mentioned is not fun an I don't plan on doing this again for a while so I'm looking for a front suggestion, the range Seems to be from 5k to 60k I'm guessing somewhere in the 5k to 15k on the high bite track. I only run one track so I'm not looking for all round setup just high bite blue groove sometimes dusty

Thanks again,
Dale

probably start with 10K to 15K personally. with the center diff I was down to 7K front and really liked that in general in all conditions I ran from carpet to loose dirt.

On a high bite track without the center dif you need to be at least at 30k in the front. 15k with the center dif. if you go any lower without the center dif the truck will be WAAAAY to aggressive and edgy and then you will end up having to run really high spring rates , toe in and positive camber. The truck never has any issues with getting steering we are all usually trying to take steering away! one benefit to the higher front fluid is your onpower steering is great with thicker front fluid!

CDiff in, with a 10T pinion. Now I just need to drive it...lol.