It's cool, my buddy needs my help for a few hours anyway to hang some sheet rock.

I heard there are some new pads in development made from pork rhines...

Ran with them already


They perform even better then the fiberglass ones .:lol:

Just thought id share my pic:D
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B34n...it?usp=sharing

o

Nothing like tail slide with some rooster added..

Hi Guys,
I need your help. I bought a new SC10 4X4 FT a while back. I have one race day on it. During practice on what would be its second race day it started to click. Reading on here I learned to shim the diffs. Now I could not find any instructions on “How” to shim the diffs. So I took them apart and I shimmed the four small gears so they were forced closer together. This seemed to increase the bit of the gears. They still felt free. So put everything back together. And after a few battery packs started to click again. I know it is not the belt and it is coming from the front diff. Now I am running 7K in the front 5K in the back for diff fluid. I was told that is what works at the track I run at. Could the 7K be to light? The diff gears do not look worn or damaged. But I have not been racing this truck because I do not want to damage them. Other than that when I drive the truck it feels great. I run my front clicker locked, and my slipper is set right.
Please help.

Welcome Brian

The spider gears can appear to look ok but still need replacement .
Use the new shims included with the rebuild kit.Instructions include where to shim.

Tip
Donot use the shims on the outdrives outside the gear case.

Diff oil seems ok, most use 30k in front & 7k in rear.

So the fiberglass ones were better than the AE pads but your beef jerky pads were better than all??

I guess the main question is that did they get you out of the B main:lol::lol::lol::lol:

Thanks!!! Will give that a try. Also while it is apart will try the 30K in the front. Though I had no complaints about the handling of the truck.

The Sc10 4x4 handles very well , can be very competitive with even against the newer designs ...


I get to race my PINK today !!!!

Looking forward to the mass fun ...




Using the Lite set-up , it is performing great for me on our present layout ...

Just to be clear, you mean these, and all other shim are good to leave in??:

http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...TDRIVESHIM.jpg
http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/...DRIVESHIM2.jpg

If your using the new thicker shims (0.5mm) on the inside you want to leave those (the ones on the out drives) off, other wise it will bind up the diff. The thicker shims on the inside push the large sun gear into the smaller spider gears for a tighter fit, and to reduce the chance of stripping the diff gears.

I am running both shims since I got the truck in 2011. They didn't seem tight when I assembled them initially. I have rebuilt the diffs a few times to put fresh grease(by the way Marcus recommended it over oil and I have to say it turns to oil after a while but haven't had a leak yet, Kyosho grease is awesome)and the gears were fine. I had a clicking noise and went through the car and found the front pulley bearing went bad (my mistake, I put the pulley on backwards), haven't heard the clicking since. But there are a few guys I know complain of it, so that's why I am commenting on it to further understand. My diffs have all the shims and work, wonder why the problem....when you guys take the outer shim(the shim outside the diff-case let's just call it that) off, do you have any end play on the out drive?