When you assemble the shock prior to putting the cap on, do you see the bladder on compression getting "bumped"? If so, personally I run limiters on other vehicles to prevent this.

Send Mantisworx a message about this issue you are seeing with the dual stages, he may have some advise on this situation. I still ran the external limiters I was using prior to the new diff shims which really limited uptravel.

Cain, long time buddy! How ya been?

yeah, I have to run almost 3/2mm clips to prevent this. Are all the shock shafts the same length? Maybe I get the rear/front mixed up? I think they are all the same though?

I am gonna try emulsion after reading this: http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...er-shocks.html

and

Saxton is gonna teach me:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-qlH-agAHE

nope, just checked I have the 26mm up front and the 30mm on the rear. :blush:

that doesnt really make sense:confused: the bladder seperates the oil from the outside exactly what is going to wear? You could pour sand on top of the bladder and it would make no difference to anything under the bladder.

the AE bladders get hard really fast, i typically replace them once a month not because of breakage but when they get hard you no longer have baldder style shocks and they end up more like emulsion because they do not move.

Cherry:

Any instructions, with photos, any where? I just lost my servo so need to replace it. I am going to do this while the truck is apart. Bought the servo mounts at the track tonight. Is it as easy as it sounds?

And loosen my servo saver up a bit! :rolleyes:

Hi, I have been running the servo flat on the chassis and it works great. It does away with the complicated stock mount and allows for easier servo removal. Check out my "how to" I posted here (starts at post #485), pretty much what WC is running:

http://www.rcshortcourse.com/forum/t...10-4x4-25.html

I think maybe he's thinking the bladder will wear out faster because without the bleeder screw pressurizing the chamber above the bladder, the bladder will flex more, and like anything, the more it moves, the faster it will wear out.

I think the piston/oil/lower seals will wear the same, but the upper bladder will wear a little faster....though if you are replacing it monthly anyway, then you probably won't notice. (Some people only replace them once they tear....)

The bladder moves the same regardless if the screw is there are not, the oil volume doesnt change, to be honest you actually put less strain on the bladder with them being open because there is no pressure being put on them when the shock goes into compression. They act like a balloon if there is no where for the air to go.

Marcus, thanks for the rapid assistance as usual. I am running the front blue spring on the rear too. Went with your oil suggestions. I think the same also what you mean about the screw left out. The bonus is you sure know when your bladder is worn out when u leave the screw out cuz it sure is apparent by the leakage...:eek:

TSR bladders rock.
http://www.tsrproducts.com/index.php...0005-13mm.html

Thanks !!!!!!!

There ya go! problem solved!

Ok, so I am wrong....

Tell me why:

stock AE piston, bladder, with bleed srew installed = bladders last for years

RCShox piston, bladder bleed srew removed = bladders last maybe a couple months at best

?

It is either more wear from movement (IE no screw) or from the rcshox pistons making contact.... I run 3mm limiter front and 5mm rear and the bladder lifespan is a couple months at best!

Yeah, when I built the shocks up with your 2 stage pistons, I put the TSR bladders in and they went for about a year. Sold the truck so don't know if their still hanging in.

could it be the AE bladders dry out faster when exposed to air?