+1 :sneaky:


But srsly: What Cain said.

won't convert (sorry for the delay). So I am going to just type it here:

FRONT:

- Steering Rack: Option, BACK
- Washers: 0
- Bump Steer Washers: 0
- Outer Position on A-Arm
- Steering Stop Gap : 0
- Anti-Roll bar: 1.8
- Body Mount: 2
- Camber: -1
- Toe: -1
- Ride Height: Bones Level
- Shock Position On tower: 2
- Washers On Tower: 3mm
- Ballstud Position on Tower: Inner
- Front Pulley: 20T
- Tensioner Position : 3
- Full Time 4x4
- Shocks Spring: Blue
- Shock Piston: #2
- Shock Oil : 27.5 AE
- Shock Limiter: NONE
- Shock Rebound: Zero / dead shocks
- BLADDER

REAR:

- Wheelbase: Medium
- Hub: C Position
- Outer Position on A-Arm
- Anti-Roll bar: NONE
- Body Mount: 2
- Camber: -1
- Toe: 3/2
- Ride Height: Bones Level
- Shock Position On tower: 1
- Washers On Tower: 1mm
- Ballstud Position on Tower: Inner
- Front Pulley: 20T
- Tensioner Position : 3
- Shocks Spring: Red
- Shock Piston: #2
- Shock Oil : 22 AE
- Shock Limiter: NONE
- Shock Rebound: Zero / dead shocks
- BLADDER

Electronics:
- 4.5 Novak Ballistic 550
- 12T / 62T
- Stick Battery In middle

Differentials
- DIff Front: 7K
- Diff Rear: 5K
- Quad Slipper

Thanks for the try I . this is for s loose blown out track

Hey guys this is my first post on here.This is my current setup however my track just did a complete rebuild so im sure it will change.

Electronics
-mamba max pro esc
-Novak ballistic 4.5 w/heat sink and milled motor pate.+16 degrees timing.0% drage brake
-savox 1258tg
-spektum DX3S and sr301 receiver.

Suspension
-Bypass1 pistons
-yellow front springs/red rear
-yellow front sway bar/orange rear
-emulsion style
-all 4 on the middle hole/all outside on the arms
-32.5 front fluid/40 rear
-exotek rear hubs 6mm on hub stud/5mm inner stud
-rpm arms all around
-ride height 25mm front/26mm rear
- -2 camber all around
- +2 toe

Drive train
-60k in the front/5k in the rear
-Exotek locked front
-20t rear/19t front
-VTS slipper
-12t pinion
-aluminium pulleys

Battery
Trakpower 6000mah 80c 2s

Tires
Proline suburbs super softs w/aka +3mm offset wheels

Body
Proline tundra

Future upgrades
-boca bearing set
-possibly center ball diff
-4 postal scales and a 55/45 balance.I know this truck could use the weight.
-makita electric drill lol

This setup pulls like hell and great in turns.When i add the weight i will make the ride height considerably higher.I'll add a pic as soon as i find out how to.

Sweet Mike , what kind of track conditions ?
Where do you race ?:)

Are you running inside on a high grip carpeg track... anyway the setup looks similar in some points to what the guys here runs....

Hi guys. I stripped my servo today racing. The one that was in it when I bought it wasn't strong enough.

Now the problem I have is I'm trying to install the new servo however I do not have a servo alignment tool as I bought this vehicle second hand. Will I need to purchase one or is there a way to get around this? I put everything back together and it seems when I try and turn the vehicle right, it doesn't pull as much as the left.

I followed the Teamm Associated videos on installing the servo and horn.

I never used the tool I just made sure the horn was straight up.

Also if the horn is contacting the plate above the horn as it moves, it's not right, just loosen the screws and slide it over a hair and check again.

Ditch those silly servo mounts and install the servo on the chassis instead.

Truck will handle better , makes servo repairs easier.

Grind the X on the chassis flush and mount the blue Ae servo brackets , will be glad you went though the trouble.

I race on hard packed clay,the only dust i ever see is toward the end in the mains.Hobbyplex in Omaha is the only place i have raced at so far.

This is my first post got a couple questions about my sc104x4 i wanted to know is there any way to get more sterring into front tires? also i noticed that my servo arm is rubbing against the plastic i am using a aftermarket servo horn cause i heard the one that comes with the truck break easliy oh and i have a savox sero i hope some body can help me out thanks

I ran the stock horn for over a rear without breaking it and I don't think the guy that bought it about 6 mo ago has broken it either.

Which savox? One of the TG servos?
High amp draw power system pushing 6+ lb trucks on 2 cell packs and a savox 1256/7 TG servo means you need a CC 10a bec. From personal experience.

I'll let someone else help with setup, been too long since I drove one.

That is the exact servo (SC 1256TG) I use in my SC10 4X4 and I've had zero issues.

My ESC is a Hobbywing SCT Pro with a 4700kv motor (Geneysis Power 2S 5000 mah) batteries

Also I run the stock servo arm with a Exotek aluminum rack and a STRC aluminum bellcrank and have not broke it yet

Hi guys. I stripped the front end again and re installed the servo. I used a ruler to align the servo output with the bellcrank. Everything seemed ok and I put everything back. I used my remote to stabalise the servo before placing the horn on.

When I went to test it, it's still pulling a lot to the left. I used the trim on my radio and got the vehicle running in a straight line. Now the problem I have is the vehicle is turning sharply to the left when I ask it to but not turning so sharply to the right? Any idea what I'm doing wrong or how I fix it on my radio?

Also, I had to put the trim on my radio to R82. Surely I shouldn't have to put it that high and their must be something wrong with my installation?

Also on the S/R I put it at
L: 100%
R: 150% (max).

This seems to bring turning to the right nearly as tight as turning to the left.

My radio is. Spektrum 4s