Suggestions on a custom sc10 4×4 build.
 

I've decided on getting an SC10 4××4 roller and building myself a custom Trophy Truck/Rock Racer hybrid. Kind of like the bare roll cage look but not so much the big lifted rock crawler design. Just for something different. I like the scale looks with my vehicles. I do mainly recreational driving and take a vehicle camping when I go. Just taking some suggestions from some people that more than likely know a lot more than me. I've never really done a build, have dealt mainly with RTRs and I add on to them. Any downfalls of the SC10 for what I want to use it for?

I have some Integy parts laying around for the SC10 that I mistakingly bought for my ProSc before I knew they weren't compatible. It took me opening the A Arms before I found out they wouldn't fit. I just want to put them to use

hmm, well probably the biggest thing I can think of is that the motor gearing range is a bit limited, and the motors location can get warm. I would say go with a 540 4 pole or 550 4 pole motor at a minimum.

Make sure the servo you pick is something you really like and is durable. getting to the servo is a real pain in the rear.

I can't really say I had much durability issues when I had the vehicle, it just was made for a different class than where sct 4x4 ended up at.

Thank you.
I was thinking about the Castle Sidewinder 3 system. I think it comes with a 3700kv motor. I would probably be best off looking more toward the higher torque on a servo seeing that I'm prob going to have extra weight in some metal on it and a metal roll cage shouldn't I? Will 3700kv be enough for the weight? I know its not going to weigh like 10 pounds or anything, but I'm not real sire about those ratios.

The motor I was looking at is a 3800kv

honestly the gearing range is such on the vehicle that if it was me and I didn't want to mesh with cutting open the motor mount to have more range with the pinion sizes I would get a 4600Kv motor like the Tekin Pro4 4600. Or, if you want a beast of a motor the Hobbywing 4700kv motor would do the trick.

If you stick with motors in the more 4000ish range, then I found that I would run a slight amount of timing on the upper rpm ranges to get the top end speed back I wanted without having to fight with the gearing.

This of course is assuming 2S usage.

honestly the gearing range is such on the vehicle that if it was me and I didn't want to mesh with cutting open the motor mount to have more range with the pinion sizes I would get a 4600Kv motor like the Tekin Pro4 4600. Or, if you want a beast of a motor the Hobbywing 4700kv motor would do the trick.

If you stick with motors in the more 4000ish range, then I found that I would run a slight amount of timing on the upper rpm ranges to get the top end speed back I wanted without having to fight with the gearing.

This of course is assuming 2S usage.

Welch189, I have used the Castle 3800kv motor in the SC10 4x4 with no problems with the same ESC (Castle sidewinder) you are talking about, although I did upgrade it to the mamba max pro. But to answer your question I think that the 3800kv motor is a good one for this chasis.

Thanks again guys. I had been looking at the Mamba Max Pro, but for all I want it for I'm prob gonna go with the sidewinder for now. I don't do any racing right now , just want a good motor in the mid range price level. I have a Sidewinder 3 ESC in my Arrma raider and it runs good. From what I hear, I should go with a high quality super reliable servo because its hard to get to. Once I get the whole thing together and running, I will see where to go from there.

Picked up a castle 3800kv. When mounting it should I use the screws provided or the screws with spacers I was using stock that's in the manual?

I usually use the mounting screws that look the best to me, meaning the set the looks like it can handle the job the best, usually the ones provided with the motor.

My sweet spot is a 4300KV 545 motor. I just ran the truck at my track (didn't race just practice wanna make sure it's dialed before I race) and it handles great. I switched the battery pack to a square pack up front and the truck jumps perfectly very balanced, no nose dive or rear landing.

Is it normal for this truck to leak diff fluid or it's time to replace the diff casings.

M03Racer, I would recommend changing the diff housing/casing with the newer style that has black output tubes instead of the copper ones if you have not done so yet where the outdrives go into, but it could also be just the diff gasket and out drive seals. But as the housing is not that expensive I would go with the complete job.

I actually went and ordered the aluminum diff gear casings I think these will last longer. The problem I was having is some of the screws got stripped with the plastic gear casings and I guess the diff was not sealing right anymore and started to leak diff oil.