Since we're talking about Front springs on the rear :D...I've finished resurrecting my SC10 4x4 and have put the Green front springs on the rear and found that I can't quite get to 24mm ride height that's been suggested to me. Is this most people's experience running the shorter front springs on the back? I'm measuring my ride height from the back edge of the centre chassis section...is that correct? Thanks in advance!

Cheers,
Mike

IMO you are making changes for the wrong reasons. in order for camber gain to effect anything body roll has to happen. Camber gain is only a side effect of Roll Center. The links control how the body rolls "into the camber gain". high roll center (lowering the inside points) will give you more initial bite and less on exit,has nothing to do with camber gain which only takes effect after or during weight transfer. Remember that whatever camber gain you have on the outside wheel it does the opposite on the inside so any grip enhancements you get on the outside is eliminated on the inside! this is why "roll center" is so important, how the chassis rolls determines grip between the inside and outside. A long link will not give you much camber gain but the inside wheel will also not go as much positive gain so your overall grip is higher this is why long links increase traction.

Mike

yes
you are using the correct position for measuring ride height ....

another point of view on the springs


Instead of using front springs on the rear , try a stiffer rear spring first ...


If Ae 13mm red rear is not stiff enough ?

Look for another brand " rear" spring that is stiffer for the best rate & performance .
Front spring rates are very stiff & not designed
for a rear suspension . .

I just started to read the Hudy setup guide , so think i will soon start to figure out how everything works

Thats a good idea, one thing to keep in mind is that its always about a balance between front and rear. If your truck pushes it can easily just be too much rear grip and vice versa so dont always chase your setup from the end that is not acting right, make sense? Sense you are learning only make one change at a time but go extreme so you can really feel the difference, I have found that on this truck the front alignment really makes a huge difference in handling.;)

please elaborate as to why a front spring outside of how stiff it is cannot be used on the rear, assuming the stiffness of the spring is what you need?

I was going to ask the same thing but its a moot point, he does not know. And yet once again its not a true statement. you dont design a spring for front or rear its wound up wire, spring rate is spring rate. Linear,progressive,length and wire gauge are what you have to alter. Only difference is length.

sundance_kid76

Also go through the Ae tuning section in the instructions & review the team set-ups offered on www.rc10.com

Sc10 4x4 shock building tips
 

The Ae 13mm Team shock is a very good shock but some tips here can help improve their performance ...


Most use emulsion design , brings the best traction ....

Bladders add extra pack and are
useful for big jumps & landings ...


The 13mm shock comes with 2 x-ring O ring seals .

They are mounted on the top & bottom of the seal cartridge .

If you assemble & slide the shaft back & forth with no oil you can notice the shaft binding or sticking .

A easy cure is to remove the top Xring and assemble as normal.

removes all the stick & no leak's ...

This mod will bring a plusher smoother ride , traction improves as well.


The 13mm shock comes with shaped pistons, remember to mount the piston flat side up inside the bore.

Most use the 1.2 pistons..

around here, bladder with the bleed screw removed is giving the best performance.

blue


What kind of track conditions are you using the bladder on ?

rough track conditions the 2 stage RC shox pistons work excellent.

Forget the name of the brand but there is an oring from an aftermarket manufacturer that to me felt smoother using 2 of there rings than even a single stock ring.

TSR.
I used the club spec, pro spec is supposed to be even less stiction but they say you will get a little bit of leakage so that's more for someone that rebuilds every day of driving.
Club specs leaked nothing and were super smooth.
Their diaphragms are much better than stock as well.

http://www.tsrproducts.com/index.php...10-4x4-ft.html

I used those before 06...:)

single Xring will not leak, very free & no stick .
Compares to the Ae 12mm in smoothest ..

May be another ring better ...
Advantages to X ring is however is cost ....
Single X-ring mod is almost "free" , most already
have that seal in their pit bag ...

This kind:

+ YouTube Video

The clay is something we call "Manitoba Gumbo" When the groove comes in, walking down the straight your shoes squeak like you're walking across a professional basketball court!