Hoosier
You tell me , how is your set - up working for you ?


Brian ,can be just the wrong screw holding the front tower.

Check the top two screws, if too long you can push into the gear box and rub the middle gear.
Not saying this is the problem , but it could be.
Other wise clicking could be one of the diff's spider gears stripping.

also check the screws for front gear case , tighten one down to hard and it can rub the front pulley.

Thanks guys! Looks to be my front diff. Shims? What ever the build instructions said is what I did. I only have one race day on this so looks like I will have to learn gear diff's. This is my first Race R/C with gear diff's.

Are these shims AE, or is there better? A kit with different thickness shims?

They were so nice and smooth when I built them. :cry:

.

I was just wondering if you see anything in your opinion that is just wrong/out of place in a general way. I know setups are personal to a driver and one thing can work for you and be terrible for me. Have been out of the hobby for about a year and I know Team Associated has a lot of mods and testing that if you are out for a while they can get you behind in your "homework". So, yeah. :tire:

I have been chatting with Cain. I think he has convinced me of trying the M2C rear D plate. Anything you might add/subtract?

Lol. I think I know what WC might suggest for removal being consistent with what he has normally said in the past:

- Step 1: Removal all RC Shox stuff
- Step 2: Put on the Quad Slipper mod which is godly!

:smile:

Hoosier , I set my truck up a lot different & don't use few if any after market parts.


If I were at your track I could let you drive my truck and experience how it performs and I would do the same with yours.

One pack with my truck would speak volumes to anyone on how to tune..
Sense we cannot do will try my best to help if I can.

Hey cain is very helpful with this truck.and the m2c block is good I was able to try one out last weekend. Now im getting it for mine also. I will have a m2c part on all my car soon

Thanks imrob!

AE could make a quick killing by offering more rear toe in blocks for the vehicle. Considering all there other offroad vehicles have that option from what I can tell (heck the B4/T4 based ones can do like 4.5 degrees), it would be awesome for them to do that and could really help a lot of drivers on rough stuff.

Yes you might be on the right track there with that idea but I wonder how 4.5 will effect say like a180 foot straight.

My "TACT" ALWAYS wanders on my cars....

"Team Associated Conspiracy Theory"... :batman:

True, but having the option atleast would be a bonus instead of 3 degrees all the time.

If they make a revision of the SC10 4x4, I could see them doing that .

The pads you claim are home made ?

Their cut out with a water jet .
Same material...

Yellow pad performance is smoother holds the tune and has been unbeatable.

Still, been experimenting with some very interesting new pad materials that blow away the fiberglass pads ...batman:

I guess I am confused how a yellow pad that can glaze holds a tune better than something that is reported to not glaze? Please elaborate on that WC? unless you mean it holds a tune after you do maintenance on int for the glazing mentioned, then, in that case, that is different situation than what you are saying.

BS....any kind of fiber based cloth will glaze no matter what.
secondly Garodisc are not fiberglass.....Einstein:weird:

Another thing is you cannot cut soft fiber with a waterjet so your lying about that too, it must be stamped from a die or scissors in your case:lol:

Care to put your money where your mouth is??

Either you actually used authentic RCShox Garo's or you did not, because there is no way you just "made your own Garo" but I am impressed that you even tried something else. a few weeks ago i sold a few sets to your zip code so someone there is running them....HMMMMMM

Here is some info that you obviously dont know. I sourced out 9 different vendors and sources for my material and they all acted different, you cant go to home depot and get it. So the odds of you finding my source out of this country are minimal and not only that but you cant buy a small piece of it to try out. secondly how did you cut it? with a dremel and a drill? it would take you a half a day to make one by hand out of my material and even then it would not be precise. the other option is to have someone draw the disc up in CAD ,program a machine and machine a set just for you.That process would take probably 2 hours so did you pay a CNC machinist 150.00 to make them for you, doubt it.You cannot get the material hot or it will be ruined so a dremel tool creates too much heat. You cant BS the BS'r WC, that would be like me asking you what its like to be a senior citizen:lol: