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Originally Posted by imrob
(Post 12434118)
I use the vts and it works great on a lose track outdoors. I did not try this c diff out. If it does work how does it work out side on lose tracks. the stock slipper did suck bad even over jumps. the vts works great on the jumps. If this cdiff works even better than the vts im gonna try it out and see why everybody argues over an opinion. or if it just the better part. I only got the vts cause that what I found first and it was in the upgrade kit. I did just find out it works for the 2wd so I might though it in there. can some send me a link to this cdiff so I can check it out. from what it sound like it locks up the slipper and im guessing it works really well on indoor tracks. but that is just what im getting from reading all this stuff so far. and it handles jump like crazy good.
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Rear Camber C-Hub Mod
2 Attachment(s)
Used on higher traction surfaces ...
Raises rear inboard & outside camber studs for controlling chassis roll. max shim height is 7mm , suggest start with . * Lowering the chassis stud height will bring more chassis roll & less traction... requires using a longer 12mm ball stud for the inboard stud #91121 |
Originally Posted by 9turn
(Post 12434896)
It dos all the thing the slipper can't 2wd it is provin to work and saves the diff from burning up but in 4wd you need a diff or in the turn the tires are fighting each other I run on vary loos track and it is the fastest truck out there
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Originally Posted by imrob
(Post 12435363)
Yes my tracks are lose to so that why I think it does so good.I still get some tire spin if i'm on the throttle hard so some slipping is good..I gonna try the vts in the 2wd.let me know how the c diff works on your lose track. I'm curious my self on how it does..
THe Cdif will shine on the loose stuff more so than the high grip, thats basically what i designed it for.:) |
Originally Posted by imrob
(Post 12435363)
Yes my tracks are lose to so that why I think it does so good.I still get some tire spin if i'm on the throttle hard so some slipping is good..I gonna try the vts in the 2wd.let me know how the c diff works on your lose track. I'm curious my self on how it does..
Or........... If you've never driven a proper 3-diff vehicle and have spent so much time letting the slipper be your throttle control instead of learning how to control the throttle yourself. |
Originally Posted by MantisWorx
(Post 12435396)
THe Cdif will shine on the loose stuff more so than the high grip, thats basically what i designed it for.:)
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I Think i Will try exotek front locker and the triple vts. Should work fine on carpet.. ???
Or if anyone has any better ideas.. plz let this rookie know ;) |
Originally Posted by BlueGlowBoy
(Post 12435431)
The c-diff works better in 99% of situations. The only time I can see the quad VTS working better is indoors, sugared track.
Or........... If you've never driven a proper 3-diff vehicle and have spent so much time letting the slipper be your throttle control instead of learning how to control the throttle yourself.
Originally Posted by sundance_kid76
(Post 12435570)
I Think i Will try exotek front locker and the triple vts. Should work fine on carpet.. ???
Or if anyone has any better ideas.. plz let this rookie know ;) Cdif, your eventually going to end up with one as most do, and for good reason. If you are stuck with just wanting to stick with a slipper pad than order the FT garodisc, you dont have to "stack" anything, maintain anything, never need replacement and never glaze, will outperform the "quad" setup ALL DAY LONG!! |
Originally Posted by sundance_kid76
(Post 12435570)
I Think i Will try exotek front locker and the triple vts. Should work fine on carpet.. ???
Or if anyone has any better ideas.. plz let this rookie know ;) Undefeatable performance ..:nod: either 3 or 4 pads the Vts will be the best choice .. No lock up , less wheel spin , more traction , smoother off power entering the corners .. TIP Suggest you install the C-hub mod , raise chassis stud 7mm of spacers .... On high grip the C hub controls chassis roll & will help you traction roll less . |
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
(Post 12435147)
Used on higher traction surfaces ...
Raises rear inboard & outside camber studs for controlling chassis roll. max shim height is 7mm , suggest start with . * Lowering the chassis stud height will bring more chassis roll & less traction... requires using a longer 12mm ball stud for the inboard stud #91121 Thanks for sharing the info :):):) |
Didn't have that experience with the +8mm mod like WC has claimed ...
I felt I gained traction from it. But, considering the fact that while doing this mod you raise the inner ball stud up to 7mm in general, that is the part that will take away rear bite. For anyone wanting to try this mod, I would highly recommend you use the same static inner ball stud height before making the riser change on the hub carrier. That way, you can actually see how it works versus changing to two areas on the car and assuming what it actually did. As for the comment as to what is the best choice, VTS with X pads or a center diff, Me personally I trust a lot in the info that Shark posts, great contributor who actually tries stuff before commenting on it being good or bad, so looking forward to seeing what he finds. |
Guys..
a good way to experience the change in performance with the stud height is to first start out with only 4mm of spacers. After a few packs add the additional 2 or 3mm of spacers.. On this I am 100% certain how the mod is used & performs. Higher the stud ? The trucks rear will remain flat and roll less. On the track feels less tippy higher you raise. Feels like more grip & more stability.. |
Originally Posted by sundance_kid76
(Post 12436671)
Thanks for sharing the info :):):)
* Lowering the chassis stud height will bring more chassis roll & less traction... Thats incorrect or at least not complete, no Roll center mod will give less or more grip across the board, you have three parts to a corner, entry,mid and exit. rollcenter adjustments will increase two of the three and the other will be opposite. so if you increase entry and mid you will lose exit grip and vice versa. Increasing your camber link length will bring more chassis roll. BOOM GOES THA DYNAMITE!!:D:tire::tire::tire: |
Originally Posted by Cain
(Post 12437168)
Didn't have that experience with the +8mm mod like WC has claimed ...
I felt I gained traction from it. But, considering the fact that while doing this mod you raise the inner ball stud up to 7mm in general, that is the part that will take away rear bite. For anyone wanting to try this mod, I would highly recommend you use the same static inner ball stud height before making the riser change on the hub carrier. That way, you can actually see how it works versus changing to two areas on the car and assuming what it actually did. As for the comment as to what is the best choice, VTS with X pads or a center diff, Me personally I trust a lot in the info that Shark posts, great contributor who actually tries stuff before commenting on it being good or bad, so looking forward to seeing what he finds. Its unfortunate that on occasion we have to read through such blatant n biased information, worst, some blindly listen to a certain mules ilogical, fan boy mentality. Blinders have been off me for a while now, and sense have stopped fighting the truck. Instead, i understand its strengths and weaknesses. I have to drive this truck differently then my losi scte, which i can appreciate at times. It still though, can be the hot ticket of choice for me on race day, depending on track and conditions. No matter what though, imo the losi is more stable and forgiving. |
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