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Originally Posted by Bler702
(Post 12197339)
Greetings, new to the forum, this is my first post. I did a search and didn't find specific info on my question.
On my SC10 4x4 I have had two servos break on me. One (XP that came with RTR) got jammed up and quit working the other (Hitech MG) gears stripped out inside and when I turn the radio left or right I can hear the motor in the servo spinning but no movement. Both of these failures occurred while running at local tracks. I looked at my servo saver and noticed the nut was tightened all the way down. I was getting no give. I loosened it up and held the servo horn with my finger while turning the wheels and now I got some play. I have yet to replace the servo and wanted to some other thoughts. Do you think my servos were being damaged due to the servo saver being tightened completely down? Also, I didn't expect to have an issue like this coming from a ready to run truck. I thought AE would set it up properly. Is this common for RTR's? Thanks, Jeff Jeff welcome to the thread Don't lock the Servo saver !!!! adjust so 1 to 2 mm of threads show above the lock nut Servo for RTR is a low cost servo , not very strong . Can replace the gears for any servo easy and they are inexpensive. |
Originally Posted by TomErickson
(Post 12198219)
I first put on the 8mm mod last summer when I was just testing at tracks in Brazil. They had a high speed corner at the end of the first straight that was a really tough spot for me with the stock set-up. The car would seem to just lift off and traction role really easy. I installed the 8mm mod with only 5mm under the inner camber link and I could stay on power through the turn. It was night and day. I can see how the increase in camber gain helped keep the outside tire virtical with maximizing the contact patch.
After dialing in my RC8.2 I have learned a lot about the rear end and getting it planted. On that vehicle the Avid -1mm rear pils played an important role. I would like the tuning option of the M2C block so I can try different rear toe. I may find the same results and not need it. It comes with a bunch of pils. What are they? Does it provide the stock setting as well as optional settings? Maybe that is part of where the confusion comes from, as the mod isn't static to just raising the link position on the hub? I think rear toe is a mod that is often overlooked. People will hunt for a variety of changes to try and get more rear traction, when usually changing that item can provide what they are looking for and more, and, its usually a simple mod to do. |
8 mm C hub mod
2 Attachment(s)
8mm C hub mod
reduces body roll frees up the rear suspension (less traction) Use the 12mm ball stud on shock tower with 7 mm of spacers under the stud,lower ball stud makes for more traction. |
funny, that's not what I experienced when taking the mod as a whole ...
But it is nice to see you comment on what the stud height on the tower does itself, which I do agree with. When I tested the +8mm mod, I compared the inner stud height position remaining static relative to what what the risers were giving me on the hub. this is where I noticed I had an increase in traction, relative to the height of the ball stud on the tower remaining static, in comparison to the stock hub height position. Pretty easy to test, especially if you are running the exotek carriers. Just get a setup on there, see how the truck feels on the track. Put on the c hub risers (use stock location mind you for link length for a better comparison to take out link length changes as a factor) |
!!!TomErickson!!! if you run the Exotek Chassis i think you haft to run more weight to get it 50/50. also the lower you put your weight the less grip you will have but it make it more stable. if you make your chassis stiffer with carbon to take the flex out you will also have less grip but add steering(witch i dont think it needs). the Exotek Chassis put the weight low and make the chassis stiffer( it adds weight but you can do that your self and make it more balance). the only reason i would run it if i was traction rolling or getting on 2 wheels.
but if i where you i would try the locked front clutch Exotek has!!! it give you 100% power to the front wheel and you run the rear to the % you like with the slipper (kinda like a center diff)also it make the slipper work haft as hard so your pads last longer and motor run a cooler. |
Thanks for your ideas on the Exotek parts. I need to decide were to invest my money for this car. I can see the benefits you mention.
So I really would like some input on the 2-stage pistons. Some swear by them but the pro's aren't using them. Should I get a set? MIP or RCShox? |
Honestly, start with the stock pistons and see what you think. If you feel you need more rapid suspension action I would then give it a look.
Me personally the RC Shox pistons were quite beneficial for really rough sections. They also worked fine on indoors carpet. I didn't see the need to change them out, just use the appropriate shock oil. As for which pro drivers use them, don't, etc. I think Mantisworx can comment on some names directly who does, don't, etc. for his product line. |
Originally Posted by TomErickson
(Post 12198771)
Thanks for your ideas on the Exotek parts. I need to decide were to invest my money for this car. I can see the benefits you mention.
So I really would like some input on the 2-stage pistons. Some swear by them but the pro's aren't using them. Should I get a set? MIP or RCShox? There are many pro's that use them, but just like most upper level racers, they are not going to say that they do. My "black book" of pros gets longer by the week! Lutz won a major last year with them on his SC, and there are others. |
Originally Posted by Cain
(Post 12198899)
Honestly, start with the stock pistons and see what you think. If you feel you need more rapid suspension action I would then give it a look.
Me personally the RC Shox pistons were quite beneficial for really rough sections. They also worked fine on indoors carpet. I didn't see the need to change them out, just use the appropriate shock oil. As for which pro drivers use them, don't, etc. I think Mantisworx can comment on some names directly who does, don't, etc. for his product line. |
Originally Posted by MantisWorx
(Post 12199020)
They use them, just not at WC's track:lol:
There are many pro's that use them, but just like most upper level racers, they are not going to say that they do. My "black book" of pros gets longer by the week! Lutz won a major last year with them on his SC, and there are others. For WC's conditions, I am assuming your UFOs would be kick butt there?
Originally Posted by imrob
(Post 12199041)
hey cain i think you set up is good to go.i ran a couple of layouts to test it out .it seem good for the kids i had to help the 4 year old out but it was his first race i really wanted to run it to see how good it was but did not get that chance yet in a race.
By the way, I don't recall but what all were the differences you had for it versus what you have in your truck on hand (diff versus vts, etc). |
Originally Posted by TomErickson
(Post 12198771)
Thanks for your ideas on the Exotek parts. I need to decide were to invest my money for this car. I can see the benefits you mention.
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Originally Posted by Cain
(Post 12198899)
Honestly, start with the stock pistons and see what you think. If you feel you need more rapid suspension action I would then give it a look.
Me personally the RC Shox pistons were quite beneficial for really rough sections. They also worked fine on indoors carpet. I didn't see the need to change them out, just use the appropriate shock oil. As for which pro drivers use them, don't, etc. I think Mantisworx can comment on some names directly who does, don't, etc. for his product line. I do prefer the RCShox design over the MIP. They have a defined action were the MIP design, while providing more tunability, is a little more unproven to me. |
I don't recall reading here much on the MIP pistons. I think someone was using them, but honestly just don't recall if they liked them or not.
When you order your Center Diff, go ahead and order some more pins. they are relatively cheap from what I recall, so might as well save on second shipping cost and have some spares on hand. |
Originally Posted by Cody227
(Post 12199143)
why don't u put sth. like a steel/aluminium plate under your chassis? It's cheaper, the cog lower, u can move the weight more forward and you could even mill some slots into the plate, like the dex410 has in the rear skidplate.
If you have ever been exposed to the Pinewood Derby you will know that the dads are really competitive and show their boys how to win! One very critical item for Pinewood Derby is weight. Getting the car to 5 oz. is maximizes the potential speed. So companies are out there that provide performance components for them. One key item is weights. Tungsten has a higher density than lead and many other alloys. So pin pointing the mass of these weights using Tungsten has become common. I plan to purchase some of the tungsten weights from this company to perfect the balance of my car. They are very small and very heavy and come in BBs, cylinders, and even putty. I am confident with these weights I can get a perfect balance without adding too much weight. |
I just purchased the rc shox center diff v2 and used it at the track for the first time. What is the purpose of the pins inside the spur gear. It seems some people use all of them installed while others only use some. When driving the truck it still seems pretty swirly on the straights when i gun the throttle. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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