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i personally wouldn't spent that much money on the truck. I switched to a RC8b conversion 1 Week ago and it drives MUCH bettter. The shocks are... a dream... it doesn't bottom out as much as the sc10 did, and still the shocks are soft enough to have traction (and i think there half full with air because i didn't have time to rebuild them xD) Also it has much more grip with the same tires and drives more consistent. The only drawback is, that it's sooooo heavy. I could drive 15min easily with my cheapest 5.6Ah batteries in the sc10 4x4 (even with steel-plates mounted under the chassis), and now im lucky with 10mins (which is a problem because we have 15min mains!). But i think that's just my setup. Another guy at my track makes 15min easily with 5Ah, maybe it's the 250g less weight, maybe better batteries, maybe better motor.
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
(Post 11817616)
Bet you can do better with the clicker locked , more grip and smoother steering...
anyone but me in the world like the clicker clicking? I run the exo front clutch locker thingie, so it accelerates wicked hard and straight, then you let off to rotate/turn, then nail it again...no waiting Ran that kind of setup back in the day with a 4x4 shaft drive buggy with front driveshaft oneway (not oneway diff) that did basically the same thing and was fast as well. Hopefully the OP responds and can give his insight into what he saw. |
Here you go Lonso
Same set-up Ae driver John Walentia use to win the Sc Show Down Tour.. Best set-up I have ever used to date on the Sc10 4x4 on indoor clay.:nod: Saddle packs have a little more forward weight on chassis for smoother steering and they bring a little extra pull out of the corner's
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
(Post 11767285)
Ae Sc 10 4x4 Set up !!!!
Intended for Scotty Ernst Show Down next week at TRCR ... Of interest is the lack of ballast weight being used ... Shocks used are Ae Team edition 13mm front 1.2 piston , Ae 32.5W oil ,yellow spring , zero internal limiter Location Middle on tower, outside on arm Camber location =inside on shock tower 2mm spacer under stud zero unscrew shock eyelet 8mm external limiter, emulsion bladder rear hole on steering rack rear 1.2 piston , Ae 30W oil, zero internal limiter, Yellow spring, zero internal limiter, emulsion bladder Location = middle on tower , inside on arm Camber location = inside on tower 7mm spacers under stud, C-Hub mod.. zero unscrew shock eyelet 8mm external limiter 3+2 Toe block saddle packs Reedy 60C zero ballast weight 30K front diff 7K rear diff 20T pulley Front & Rear Clicker locked Track Conditions Indoor clay , med high traction , smooth Lrp FLOW ESC Reedy 4.5 550 Sonic, 12T pinion Clicker locked Ae Vts slipper JConcept Bar Codes (Gold) 24mm ride height , 23 mm if traction is high or rolling over... |
Originally Posted by Cain
(Post 11818833)
Based on what he said are the characteristics he likes:
I am assuming he tried it and rather would rather have the faster offpower steering, especially on tracks which quick 180s, it can be very fast if you can control it. Guys who use lots of brakes I can see having issues with it. Ran that kind of setup back in the day with a 4x4 shaft drive buggy with front driveshaft oneway (not oneway diff) that did basically the same thing and was fast as well. Hopefully the OP responds and can give his insight into what he saw. |
I need to know where to put some stick on weights if your running the stock chassis.
Id like to have my chassis as balanced with the lipo as possible. |
dup
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Originally Posted by ???E-Racer
(Post 11822391)
I need to know where to put some stick on weights if your running the stock chassis.
Id like to have my chassis as balanced with the lipo as possible. Start with no weight first , adjust the ride height to 24mm Then if you want to add weight to see if it improves the handling ? add 1 1/2 oz on each side of the servo , can also try adding 1oz right behind the battery against the rear chassis wall .. No weight Improves performance on jumps , landings & bumps.... Adding weight improves traction and adds stability.. |
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
(Post 11822715)
Adding weight
improves traction and adds stability.. |
Originally Posted by ???E-Racer
(Post 11822391)
I need to know where to put some stick on weights if your running the stock chassis.
Id like to have my chassis as balanced with the lipo as possible. What motor? |
Originally Posted by khshapiro
(Post 9866897)
:nod::eek:so yeah , i put a 1/8 scale castle system in my SC10 4x4 , its a super course 10 4x4 or a super 10 now. i did a few different search tries and found nothing on it , am i the first?????:confused:
2650 castle with mamba monster, i'm running stick saddle packs I modded the chassis..... two orion 5000 90c :-) i made my own mounting plates for the receiver box which is now above the front diff and the esc is above the rear diff ( temp mounting plate getting thicker abs plastic)... everything fits perfectly.. i had to do some creative dremeling but other than that it was easy(dremeling did not seem to weaking the rear bulk head but if it did i do have extra :-) ). i have a new set of slipper pads i will be picking up on monday made out of a material ceramic similar to brake pads but closer to zr1 pads. i started out with a SCT system and became quickly tired of it. i then went to a MMP and a tekin sc4x 4.5 , but like i always say GO BIG OR GO HOME. im not a racer but i do like pushing the limits |
Originally Posted by ???E-Racer
(Post 11822391)
I need to know where to put some stick on weights if your running the stock chassis.
Id like to have my chassis as balanced with the lipo as possible. Also overall chassis tuning has alot to do with performance e.i. suspension. |
Was looking through the manual...are the gear diffs the same size as the 2wd models? Was curious to know if it's possible to convert the gear diff to ball diffs.
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Originally Posted by maddysdaddy
(Post 11821654)
The exo front clutch locker is awesome for acceleration, and I liked it right off the bat. You can nail the throttle anywhere and it pulls where you point it. I did not like it under low speed tight turns though. All the drag of the 550 tied straight to the front wheels made for poor slow turning. Yes, it had crazy brakes that way, but I couldn't get comfy in the tight stuff. Set the clicker to clicking, and that solved it. It doesn't drive like other sc10s this way, as it doesn't need to be finessed, it can be chucked. My buddy has a regular SC10 4x4, no locker and not clicking, and we can pretty much cut and weave all over the track dead even. Mine's just more sideways. He can brake harder and later, but I'm pitched sideways and stuck down low in front of him already due to my acceleration into the turn (sometimes....when it goes well....). Regardless, I have fun with the truck when it's working, and it can battle tooth and nail as is, so I'm fine with it.
But as they said, it is what you like. I love the way it pulls out with the lockout. Snapped a CVA pin right before the first qualifier Saturday and of course - shop didn't have parts so no racing for me. |
Originally Posted by Autocratic
(Post 11827645)
Was looking through the manual...are the gear diffs the same size as the 2wd models? Was curious to know if it's possible to convert the gear diff to ball diffs.
48p 2wd 32p 4wd Inner Diff gears small 2wd large 4wd |
Originally Posted by SC Shaun
(Post 11828419)
Outer Diff gears
48p 2wd 32p 4wd Inner Diff gears small 2wd large 4wd |
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