I'm currently running 30k in front and 7 in rear. And I knowi should go down on the front to get the push out.

Getting a second set of shocks is a good idea. I like the blue ones from the regular kit better than the FT ones anyway. They are dirt cheap on ebay.

Im running 35 in front and 30 in the rear, Yellow fronts up front and blue fronts in the back for indoor. Whats a good start for outdoor? Here in Arizona this is the start of the season so I got lots of outdoor time ahead.

I would suggest starting with RC Shox starting setup as a base point and go from there for outdoor, but using the M2C blocks in the 3.5 degree setting.

As for having the power, if your motor is not getting hot, I would say gear up or you can play with some timing. I found using a little as 5 degrees of timing in say a turbo fashion (ie- after a certain RPM range) really woke up my Tekin Pro4 4000Kv motor.

Or, you can go with something with a higher Kv. It may be that the competition is just using really powerful motors at your track.

by the way, how would you describe the conditions you run on?

1st Indoor race with my 4x4 today, Only mods from stock are Sway bars front a rear and Chassis Brace. Other than that Bone stock RTR with Spektrum DX3C Radio. Wanted to get a couple of race days as is to get a good base line..

What I took away from today was:
1) in stock form ( stock springs, Oils, Fluids and Electronics ) the truck is very twitchy with a huge amount of traction roll. Ran the spring tensioner about 3/4 down 1st heat. Changed the rear toe block to the 3-3 in the rear and put the Overdrive pulley up front. For Second round, Seemed to have more forward bite but still alot of traction roll in corners and bounce in rhythm section. back spring tensioner off to 1/4 in front and 1/2 in rear. MUCH BETTER was able to point and pull in corner and entry speed was much better. Traction roll was reduced but still there. Also put on a set of soft rebars with the 3mm Wheels from my 2wd to see what it did. Stock tires actually were OK but lost lots of Acceleration out of the corners with them. REBARS helped that 10 fold, Pulled a wheelie at one point which was fun. LOL
2) Stock 14 tooth pinion was to "hot" for our track layout. Picked up a 12 tooth and seemed to help with low end power and temps.. Truck felt a little more relaxed. Now just need to learn how to adjust my 3c to take advantage of the power and not over power.
3) Factory Diff consistency. Before 1st round had already had to rebuild my rear diff due to it stripping out from the shims being wrong. By 3rd round the front was clicking and will now be rebuilt before next race.

All and All good 1st day, Finished 2nd in B main with a brand new truck so I was happy. Lots to learn with with and I look forward to growing with it. Biggest issue is transitioning from 2wd to 4wd and back to 2wd during race day they are so different to drive.

fq06

Looks like I will certainly be investing in the RCshox 2 stage pistons, but if they are that good, why would I not want to run them indoor as well as outdoor? Is there some drawback to their use on smooth surfaces?

Well SRS is well groomed hard pack with a bit of fluff, sticky when wet, loose when dry. Glitch is hard packed and loose on top. Not quite a loamy track but it does have some lose dirt on top of the hard pack at times.

The hacker 4 pole I have is the newest one. Its a 450 5.5 can. I also have a Tekin SC4X 4.5 I can put back in. What ESC settings in the RX8 do you recommend? I hate being suck a great driver indoor and then look like crap outdoor. Its not my lines, its just the speeds.

Is your truck squirrelly outdoors? I don't run outdoors very much but when I do I step down in spring rate going to blue fronts in front and white fronts in rear. I also go up 1-2mm in ride height as well. I remember it being pretty good then but it has been a while.

Guys.. I got a question. My steering link keeps popping off the ballstud. It took me out of a qualifier last week and put me way back in the main. Then it happened 2 more times today. I replaced both the ballstud and the ball cup links. What can I do to fix it? Is there a way to put captured set-up like the rc8's have?

Thanks

Gents are u running the emulsion or bladder setup in ur shocks. Also what springs and shock weights r u using. I have checked the pro setup sheets but I want to see what u guys r running. Thanks

for indoor clay
use the emulsion shock

Ft
yellow spring
1.2 piston
32.5W Ae oil
yellow sway bar

Rear
yellow spring
1.2 piston
30W Ae oil
blue sway bar

Some people that run them will switch to standard piston (less active, more of a muted feel) indoor but I ran them indoor & outdoor.

You will feel more of their advantage outdoor though where they really shine.

Some footage with Cherry, Brown, and Gould throwing it down in their SC10 4x4s, even if you don't watch the whole race it is worth it to watch the finish :nod:

+ YouTube Video

dunno what your set up is, but try the clicker clicking and/or lower your front diff weight a bit? also stiffer front springs in the back? I love the pull out of the turns, but i had to make the front soft and rear stiff to get it to rotate. :sneaky:

Unfortunately I don't run the RX8. You may want to see what setups are out there for the ESC and motor in 4x4 SCT. Personally, from what I saw from speed passions direction I was starting my boosting at around 3000K RPM with say 5 degrees to start with. That may give you a starting point with the RX8. The Speed Passion guys were boostering there 550 2 Poles motor A LOT in comparison to the 540 4 Pole ones which don't like it.

You are running a 5.5 motor, 540 can I believe you mean which is like 4000Kv? It will definitely be slower than a 4.5 can motor on the top end. I personally couldn't get enough speed in comparison to the 540 Pro4 4600Kv guy when gearing up as the motor would get into heat ranges I didn't like. But, when I did turbo like I mentioned and dropped my pinion size, I was able to be right there speed wise with him and temps went down significantly.

As for setup if you feel everything feels good your all set then. But if you have time, I would be curious to see how your current setup compares to RC Shox new starting setup which uses the lighter White front spring in the rear now than the blue to start from what I recall Marcus telling me.

That spring setting I believe is what Marcus now recommends, at least the whites in the rear. For the stuff I ran on out here when it was outdoor season, I was running Blues fronts and I think Green rears and it worked really well. Still gave me the suspension action I needed that the stock rear yellows didn't but had the grip I needed too. The M2C block though really locks in the rear end so it won't be squirrely.

For the RX8, I run current limit @ 100 indoor and anywhere from 90 down to 75 outdoor.
That limits power sent to the motor for the first certain amount of rpm (not sure what that value is, maybe first 20%?) on the bottom end then goes to 100% power. Good in less than ideal traction situations like dry hard pack with a little loose dirt on top.

Timing for a 4 pole is zero. Two pole, time as temps allow.
4 pole FTW.

Push is set to 20. That keeps a hair of throttle on when you go to neutral so you roll through turns a little better... better flow for me. Go to any amount of brake and push is inactive.

Zero drag, preference like the push setting.

The rest like neutral width, min throttle- brake, brake strength and so on can be copied off the pro setups on the tekin site.
Make sure you're running the 2.23 firmware, there is a sc4-x specific pro sheet if you want to go back to the tekin and a couple 4 pole sheets (pro4) for your hacker.

http://www.teamtekin.com/hotwire/ESC...up-sheets.html