Two new diff housings with bearing modification: check
8mm of travel up limiters (3 more than what I had before): check
One set of brand new shocks: check
Removed all ballast: check
Reinstalled the 550 so I can blast the doubles: check
New a arms front and rear: check
New ballcups/titanium tie rods: check
All new outer wheel bearings and overhauled CVAs: check
Aligned, ride height adjusted, and scaled: check
New style trans top shaft installed: check
Coupled adaptor on hand, Exotec slipper bypass hub on order: check

Head readjusted to blasting corner marshals in the ankles/head because the guy who designed the track sees no need to give them a safe place to stand: well, I guess that's not my problem.

Buy Nicks, work a deal where it comes with a weeks supply of whatever he eats for breakfast.

Here is my track:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...-pano_0004.jpg

The sweeper in the back I can hit perfectly however gunning it I can barely make that long jump. The truck flies perfectly straight and then lawn darts.

Also that big double in the middle is almost impossible to make. It could just be my batteries (25C). Next time I am there I will try some 50C batteries and see if that makes a difference. Every where else the truck is dialed. I get squirrely while accelerating, mostly down the straights. I've spun out down the straight once or twice.

Cam, I know you run the DE racing mud guards, do they work? Track is dusty as hell.

About all they do is protect the bearing in the Rear hubs. No real help otherwise. Maybe not direct spray onto the shock shaft, but it makes it's way there, sure enough.

But protecting a bearing 'is' saying something.


Since when have we been any different?

I recently rebuilt my diffs. I found that wiping each gear off with a paper towel and even q-tips did not remove the old fluid in the valleys between each tooth. I planned to refill with kyosho diff grease and didn't want even a trace of the old fluid to dilute the grease. In frustration I left each gear with the teeth facing down on a clean paper towel overnight, thinking I would clean them in mineral spirits and a toothbrush the next day. The next morning each gear was spotlessly clean as the overnight "sit" had allowed the oil to slowly flow downward and be soaked up by the paper towel.

But, I'm wondering what I'm going to do when it's time to rebuild the diffs now that they have been refilled with grease, as I don't think it will flow downward like silicone diff oil.

Don

What's the best way to cut down the housings?

I wound up using some carb cleaner I had. I am reluctant to use it on the plastic housing so as soon as I was done I washed it down with denatured alcohol. The metal parts I was not worried about. They can be cleaned using pretty much anything.

On another note, I see people talking about pins. Adding and removing pins. What does this refer to please?

If that was my home track..I'd surrender and buy an 1/8th buggy..:lol:

The pins they are talking about are on a V2 diff made by RC Shox..

No prob darryl. That iron jon carlson recommended is very nice for the money. If I didn't like soldering gun setups, I probably would pickup one.

I agree that you don't run pinions that small just because of a small track, but I think a lot of it depends on how much straight away length you have to actually open up the motor. On the indoor track i ran on here, I was down to I believe an 11T pinion, 62T spur with a tekin SCX 5.5 550 motor. It was the sweet spot on temps and power for the track that was 50 x 50. There wasn't a lot of places to open up the motor.


Is anyone running different compound tires front versus rear?

First

Why the 7 mm under the rear ball stud

Purpose is the raise the roll center ...

If we did not raise the inside stud ?
We would just have a c-hub mod only it would be on the inside of the arm instead of out side on the arm .

If we did nothing but the 8mm on outside , means more traction and roll

To stop this roll & extra grip we move 7mm under the inside stud on rear tower ..

when you do, the suspension will not bind near as much as if we did not raise the inside stud .

less bind equals less roll & traction ..


Conclusion

Imagine a box that pivots on the ends , if we only raise the ball stud 8mm on outside & nothing on the inside ?

The inside end of the box will be very short & bind more when moving back & forth when you pivot the box .

This bind is the force we are controlling by moving the studs up or down .



Oasis


Nice try Bro ......:)


Just remember how Matrix told everyone how on top of the game the Ae trucks looked the last time he saw ...:lol:



Cameron


Don't know if you have done yet .

Easy 1/2 oz or more to loose by just removing the gear covers ..


Bonus
Motor & slipper runs cooler as well & it is all top weight you remove, less roll ...

Will someone who lives in Socal give Oasis a hug please?

Raising rear ball studs on tower lowers roll center Cherry. Raising on the hub raises roll center. When done equally this lowers roll center and keeps camber gain under control during compression and rebound. This is why it is being raised inner and outer, to keep camber from changing erratically during compression and rebound of suspension. All of this information has been gone over time and time again.:rolleyes:

I built a jig so I could use my mill, but if you don't have one, I'd spend 15 minutes with a piece of 80grit sand paper laid flat on a table top. Its brass and plastic, works easy.